I was thinking of making some clevis bolts using grade 8-5/8", 11" long bolts with some 4140 steel heads to be tig welded - any thoughts - thanks. The u- heads would be drilled to 5/8" and welded on both sides onto the bolt.
-Steve
-Steve
Anybody making their own celvis bolts
- Thread starter Stingray65
- Start date
Terry Oxandale
Skinny Man
My thoughts. I've done essentially the same thing, except I used rectangular tubing to fabricate the clevis. The head of the bolt will not spin under the clevis (not welded, but otherwise the same as you've noted) if a slotted screwdriver blade is inserted between the bolt head and the clevis inner wall. I've found it an advantage to not have the two pieces welded together. A photo, and further discussion is found below.
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/498434-post159.html
and
Terry
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/498434-post159.html
and
Terry
did you use anything other than mild steel as the clevis head, Competition engineering has clevis heads that would fit, but they are not offset as I have seen many GT40 clevis heads. Does the offset matter? Any templates? As for the spinning clevis head doesn't that encourage binding and a potential loosening of the rose joint? Sorry for all the questions
-Steve
-Steve
Terry Oxandale
Skinny Man
Once the nut on the opposite side of the upright is tight, that clevis is fixed, and has never been an issue. I offset it to place the clevis in as much of a purely tension load as possible, rather than offset loading from the bolt-head centerline or axis. I don't know that it's really necessary.
Competition's clevises appear to provide adequate bolt head-to-Heim clearance.
Competition's clevises appear to provide adequate bolt head-to-Heim clearance.
Steven
The offset is to make the suspension 3 elements not 4.
3 elements (pivots) it will move freely through its ark. 4 pivots will bind on bushes but still works on r/joints, but you may get some odd reactions in the arks.
Jim
The offset is to make the suspension 3 elements not 4.
3 elements (pivots) it will move freely through its ark. 4 pivots will bind on bushes but still works on r/joints, but you may get some odd reactions in the arks.
Jim
The offset, or absence of offset, doesn't change the number of elements (pivot points), merely the location if the pivot point. The center bore of the Rose joint is the pivot point, regardless of whether it is offset or not.
Not sure about that Bill maybe it our explanations.
I did a drawing in the first the yellow ring is the upper trailing link rear joint on the same plane as the rear outer lateral.
The green line is the shape of the control arm.
The 2 drawing is with the rear trailing link joint not on the same plane so you end up with another control arm in magenta.
Thats what I mean , you end up with 2 control arms if bushed it will likely bind.
Drawing 1 has 3 pivot points drawing 2 you know have 4 pivots on that suspension component.
Sorry about the size of pics ,when I jpg out of cad it makes them small for some reason.
I did a drawing in the first the yellow ring is the upper trailing link rear joint on the same plane as the rear outer lateral.
The green line is the shape of the control arm.
The 2 drawing is with the rear trailing link joint not on the same plane so you end up with another control arm in magenta.
Thats what I mean , you end up with 2 control arms if bushed it will likely bind.
Drawing 1 has 3 pivot points drawing 2 you know have 4 pivots on that suspension component.
Sorry about the size of pics ,when I jpg out of cad it makes them small for some reason.
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Terry Oxandale
Skinny Man
This makes my head hurt. A lower arm is a 4 pivot system, so wouldn't that have the same issue? Lastly, if looking all of this from a horizontal plane, wouldn't the "3 pivot" still actually be a 4 pivot because the clevis generally aligned to an anti-squat trailing arms? I've got to study this.
Terry how can a lower arm (conventional) be 4 pivots.
2 lower inners and a ball joint.
Are you talking about the twin link arm set up?.
Actually maybe I need to do some study, I just played in susprog 3 with my set up moving the link on the clevis and other than KPI it didn't seem to have any real effect on all the figures, very minor if any.
So maybe having no offset on the clevis is fine ,easier to make.
Angled clevis would be better for lines of force though.
Maybe I am starting to loose it.
Jim
2 lower inners and a ball joint.
Are you talking about the twin link arm set up?.
Actually maybe I need to do some study, I just played in susprog 3 with my set up moving the link on the clevis and other than KPI it didn't seem to have any real effect on all the figures, very minor if any.
So maybe having no offset on the clevis is fine ,easier to make.
Angled clevis would be better for lines of force though.
Maybe I am starting to loose it.
Jim
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Terry Oxandale
Skinny Man
My 4 pivot thought on the lower arm were the inner, two outer, and the front trailing arm pivot. Regardless, interesting topic.
