Mounting Perspex Covers / Windows

Peter Delaney

GT40s Supporter
Is there any concensus regarding the best way to fix the perspex light covers, windows, etc., to the bodywork eg :

- Rivnuts, self tapping screws, etc

- Straight-through or countersunk holes in perspex

- Gaskets between perspex & f/glss, or not

Any help would be greatly appreciated as I am just at the point of shaping the perspex.

Kind Regards,

Peter D.
smile.gif
 

Ron Earp

Admin
Go to McMaster-Carr McMaster and check out the pages on Rivet Nuts. They have some nice one, some with built in weather seals etc.

They also just have some threaded barrels that could be glued permamently into the fiberglass.

Seems like a good option.

Ron
 
Peter,

My plexi is mounted with oval head machine
screws, countersunk, with nylocs wherever
possible. The side windows can be secured
with these same screws, and a small dab of
3M 5200 wiped on the threads to prevent
them from backing out. Be VERY careful not
to get the 5200 on the plexi as it is messy.
WD-40 will clean it off fairly easily, but
use caution, and you will save time and
effort. 5200 will hold the screws very
securely and is available at any marine
hardware store. If you do your window edges
in black, black 5200 is available. If you do go with the black edges, that would hide a thin bead of caulk, as well.
A small tube of 5200 should be enough for the job, and runs about $5USD.

Your car is looking good!

Bill

[ May 05, 2002: Message edited by: Bill Bayard ]
 
I wanted to be able to remove the plexi pieces for cleaning under (lights) and for open-air driving (windows). For permanent body threads I installed heli-coils, which are also listed in McMaster-Carr. They sell an installation kit. You just drill, tap threads into the body, and install the coils flush to the body so nothing shows. The heli-coils are actually springs that expand in the body threads so they do not require any threadlock or glue to stay in place. I've removed my pieces many times and have had none move. I was afraid of rivnuts or any fasteners that put pressure on the body, which could eventually crack the paint, if anything. I countersinked the holes and also used oval head stainless screws with 6/32" thread.
 
I've done what Mark suggests. Great idea and easy to do. I feel it's the perfect system to use. In addition to the helicoils (8-32) I have used another good idea from Hershal and put little tiny o-rings on the screws to help prevent the glass from cracking. Try it out I think you'll find it quick and easy.
John
 
G

Guest

Guest
I am going to use #6 rubber WellNuts to mount my plexi. On the outside, I am using #6 countersunk SS allen head screws with SS finish washers and under the finish washer a nylon washer. The nylon will actually touch the plexi. This way I have rubber holding in the fiberglass and nylon on the plexi. This should be waterproof and prevent cracking, crazing and chipping of both plastics. The WellNuts only need a 5/16 hole as well and anchor by expansion as you tighten the screw. I will also be using a 1/16" EDPM sealer with cutouts for the wellnut heads. Not sure anyone else has used this system, but I intend to give it a try.
 
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