Using a take-off Mustang motor

[ntmatter]

After refining my budget, it looks like I can build a deluxe car or have a bitchin' motor, but probably not both. What I'm hoping to do is get a complete RF or NZ kit and put the most affordable decent motor in it that I can, then put in something pretty later. It looks like the cost of a basic crate motor with carb/efi is going to run at least $4K, and so I was wondering if it would be possible to just yank a recent Mustang GT or Cobra 5.0 engine and everything attached to it out of a wrecked car and hook it up to an Audi transaxle? This would include the fuel injection, controller, computer, etc. - in theory the motor wouldn't know that it was no longer in a Mustang.

I know the idea of a single-donor vehicle FFR-like kit has been tossed around and I'm not thinking about going that far, I'm just trying to find a cheap and simple way to get a basic motor in the car that will run for a few years while I put together something better.

Thanks for any advice,

A

[Bill Bayard]

A,

Don't just go to a junkyard, shop around.
There are car forums, clubs, and the like, whose classified sections offer great deals on used engines.This way, at least you might wind up with something a bit better than a stock engine with few ponies. I've recently seen moderately built SB Ford engines for sale for under 2K. By moderately built, I mean 350HP or so. Good luck!

Bill

[Adam C.]

I did this

66 mustang.

It's not too hard. A good engine with 60K on it will run you $650 from the junkyard. I can give you pointers if you go this way. It is much easier if you go to the junk yard if you are going to do EFI. That way you get the engine, harness, computer, fuel lines, ignition, and all other goodies. This stuff can really mount up if you just buy an engine and then try to source all the EFI stuff.

Will the EFI manifold fit in a 40 though? Where does the MAF and filter go? Has anyone done this? I would love to see pictures of a 5.0L in a 40!

Adam

[Eric]

Here is a link to the thread where Lynn explains the intake situation http://www.gt40s.com/cgi-bin/ultimat...c&f=6&t=000056
If you need help with wiring it just let me know, I have hooked up quite a few, or look at www.engineswaps.com there is something there on wireing it. The best is if you can find a harness from a 93 or newer or better yet find a complete 94 or 95 engine as they have the intake that Lynn suggests and they also have the shortest pulley setup (except for the explorer which I think is about .25" shorter still). And try and cut the harness off on the vehicle side so you can have the conecters to use.

[Mike Dozier]

I believe Lynn Larsen was the first to install a Mustang 5.0 in a GT40.
He can probably share tips.

If you're on a budget, a carbureted setup
is not only cheaper and easier, but more
period authentic. But the EFI sure looks
cool!

MikeD

Eric, you were correct the first time. The 94/95 ECU does not perform as well as the 93 which is considered the optimum for the 302 by most as far as stock computers are concerned.

If you are going to pull an engine, try to follow the harness(s) from the two 10 pin round connectors back to the computer and to the next set of connectors (as much as possible). Also get the O2 sensor harness: Ford has obsoleted these, but Painless now has them, so it isn't as big an issue as it used to be. I used a combination of a Chiltons, the Ford EEC-IV book and the painless wiring guide to marry the chassis harness into the computer harness. Oh yeah, I also had the book that came with the computer harness I bought from Ford. There was only one error in the wiring diagrams in the Chiltons and it involved the WOT shut off of the A/C and wasn't too hard to figure out.

The 94 intake worked fine for me. Keep in mind that I use the Porsche transaxle which allows my motor two be, at least, a couple of inches lower than with the Audi/Getrag or Renault transaxles. If the 94 throttle body came straight out of the middle of the plenum (like the 89-93) it would have been easier. But, a short 3" 45 into a ProM MAF and then a ~5" radius 3.5" 90 put my K&N right in front of the door scoop on the passenger side of the car. The rear clip opens and closes with no problem for me. Also keep in mind that there are different configurations of that area. I'll try to get a photo of the intake/plenum posted for you.


[ January 28, 2003: Message edited by: Lynn Larsen ]

Here is another view of the -94 upper intake (I have two gaskets between upper and lower for heat isolation as there is not enough room for a phenolic), BBK 65mm TB, ProM Bullet MAF and K&N air filter:

[cougaraug]

you might want to talk to Windsor- Fox. They know pretty much everything about swapping EFI 5.0s into older ford production cars. They can probably help out with any special harnesses, etc you might need. they are at windsor-Fox.com

[Andrewtheman]

why not just get a block and some heads then add an intake manifold for a carb engine?? my friends brothers 69 mustang has a 88 5.0 block and heads swapped into it but they guy used an intake manifold from an older 5.0.

that way you have your engine and dont deal with even half as much wiring

just a thought