Original XE 289 Block - Compression Rings ?

JimmyMac

Lifetime Supporter
I am currently blueprinting an original 1966 "0 XE-136505" 289 short engine.
Everything is in good order but the top edges of all cylinder bores have shallow machined recesses for what apppear to be compression rings ?.
I would apppreciate advice if this feature is original and any recommendations for replacement part numbers.
 
Sounds like a ring ridge to me. Probably will need a bore job on the block. Or the Block was o ringed to improve the head seal. Is the top of the block machined or the bores?
 

JimmyMac

Lifetime Supporter
J What ?,
Thanks for the response.
The bores have all tested fine and standard with little or no wear, burning or piston slap.
These recesses are deliberately counter-bored 90 degree cuts on each cylinder top.
I first thought that I had EIGHT sleeves in there but ultrasonics and dye penetrant have detected nothing.
If this block is a lemon it beats me as the condition for it's age is fine.
But, if there is no mechanical advantage reasoning for this, then alas, this block could end up with the rest of the pig iron at the back of my shed.
 
Can you post a picture? I'm not aware of any "standard" machining on the top of the bores from 66 engines, but I could be wrong. Could it be an "o-ring" seal for the heads?

A picture would really help

cheers

dave
 
I have seen blocks liked described with compression rings and O-rings used for sealing. A good example being the Boss 429 engines and also some Maseratis I have worked on. I am sure if enough research is done the answer will be found. At the time I was working on the Maserati I couldn't get new sealing rings so I annealed the ones I had and had them silver plated. It worked like a charm.

Vic CAV 40
 
Almost all ford factory race blocks of the 1960s were machined for cooper rings. These are very hard to find these days but some of us diehards may still have some. these were used in 255 4-cam indy , 302 trans am, boss 429, 427 gt-40 and most racing gurney weslake heads. these are always used with dry deck engines which means you dont have normal water passages in the top of your block as these heads and block combinations dont even use a head gasket. It is possible you have a wet deck motoer machined for cooper rings. If you have any further questions you can call me at 207 892 8141 thanks, jay
 

Jim Rosenthal

Supporter
If you read John Wyer's autobiography he refers to these sealing rings employed in getting the 289 and 302 Fords to last thirty hours for a LeMans dyno test. They ran fairly high compression- the rings helped seal the cylinders to the heads and avoid blowing head gaskets. I think both the dry-deck and wet-deck engines had them. The block you have is really a find! there can't be many of those motors left.
 

JimmyMac

Lifetime Supporter
Thank you one and all for this as you have made my day.
I knew about the cooper rings and pressure ring joints from high pressure steam cylinder design and to me, this machining and rings fits the theory regarding maintaining thermal and pressure wall efficency.
The bottom end of this block is also a sight for sore eyes when I read about all you fellows chasing the horsepower.
I guess now that some more research is needed my way to get this block back into service.
The forum is invaluable - so are the people.
 
Hi James
I have an XE block and can confirm that it also has cooper rings to help seal the Weslake heads, it also has 4 bolt mains and windage tray.
I keep it as a spare as I don't want to risk damaging it.
Regards
Chris.
 

JimmyMac

Lifetime Supporter
Hi Chris,
This evening, I just remembered about your excellent recent find and wondered.
If you can shed any light as to a source of new rings in your search, I would appreciate a call.
I reckon I will also need a pair of Weslakes now to match this block ?
These rings also prove that there is nothing new in engineering as my original 1874 Sharps buffalo rifle has a similar gas seal ring in the breach block. It is made of platinum. (Not really GT40 related but .40cal never the less)
 
Hey Guys, This past weekend I went to a Porsche place in northern Georgia. While I was there one of the mechanics noticed that some of the bolts that screw into the transaxile were loose. To say the least I was very suprised that they could loosen like that. Come to findout that CAV sent me an E-mail about checking these bolts periodicaly and tighten them as necessary. The mechanic gave me a set of 12 washers that he put on and torqued them down. If I had waited longer my drive shafts would have seperater from the 016 getrag. You can get these special washers from a Porsche dealer in your area. I don't know what they are called, but they have grooves on both sides that grip into the head of the bolt and the metal part that connects to the joint that connects to the plate on the transaxile. I'll try to put a picture of one here. He told me that they were 15 mm. Joe /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif
 

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Does any one know what these bolts should be torqued to? They torqued the Porsches to 55 lbs. They torqued mine to 40 lbs. because the didn't want to strip the threads since the plate that the bolts screwed into is cast iron. Joe /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
Thanks Bill, What color do you suggest? I was told to use red, but if I need to take it apart it can be very hard to do. These washers are suposed to work very good without making it permanent. Joe
 

JimmyMac

Lifetime Supporter
You should replace these bolts with HT studs and secure the nuts with wire or cotter pins for security.
Also for safety, always check with your engineer first.
 
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