turkey pan

I have bin searching for a turkey pan for the Webers IDF 48, but could not find the drawing which was posted a time ago i think.
Last week i had fuel coming out of overflow holes of the webers when i started the engine.
Luckely some people where watching and warned my, so thats the reason i will have a turkey pan, the other thing is cool air for the engine.
Who can help me find this threat or can i buy a ready made one?
I can let one fabricate by my friends but a drawing is than very welcome.
I know this is a great forum, i'm looking at daily for 1,5 year.
Luc
 
Luc - I don't think you'll find a ready made pan, the fitting of one is specific to your engine setup and chassis/body fitment. Ian Clark at CAV posted an excellent thread showing pics of the installation and the issues that he encountered to make it work best. Look under the "Engine" forum.

Chris
 
ERA makes one. But as Chris pointed out, it may not fit your specific setup. They have a lit price of $800.

Bill D
 

Charlie Farley

Supporter
Ive tried a search using the term 'Turkey Pan' and also tried to locate Ian Clark in the Users List, to list his Posts. Ive not been able to find either, got any ideas guy's?
 

Chris Duncan

Supporter
Probably best to make your own. If you want it to seal properly to the body it's going to have to be the correct height and position to meet the body exactly around it's edge.

I used 5052 T3 aluminum, .050" thick but 6061 would work. Make a pattern out of heavy white poster board. You can take the carbs off and the studs where the carbs bolt and then apply graphite to the top of the manifold where the carbs bolt. Then carefully set the poster board down on the mounting surface and press down so the graphite makes an impression. Cut out on the impression line, measuring where necessary. It's also easier to just measure than you would think, the carbs are all the same spacing.

Construct the poster board pattern just as you would the final piece. It's made from only one piece with the sides folded up and the corners taped in position. Set it in place to make sure everything fits and has clearance, especially to the valve covers, before transferring to metal. The actual pan is all one piece with the sides folded up and the corners tig welded. One thing you have to be careful of is to keep the bottom really flat, you don't want it to leak at the base of the carbs.

The cardboard pattern pictured has the sides higher than the final piece. I ended up building the fiberglass down to meet it because the engine is so low in the chassis. Mine fits the TWM EFI manifold so I don't know if it would fit yours.
 

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Sandy

Gulf GT40
Lifetime Supporter
Kalun -

Very nice!

You mentioned that your was for the TWM injection, and from mine it looks like the injector rails would be above the tops of the throttle bodies. Are the rails inside of the pan on your design (lots of extra holes)?

And lastly I hope you made an extra one that I can try out /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Sandy
 
Chris, I think your right, a standaard pan will nit fit.
Bill, thanks for the price info.
Kalun, that's info what i need to let make a pan by my friend, his firm makes racingbikeframes http://www.bakker-framebouw.nl.
This winter i will change the front suspension ( rims, uprights, steeringrack and wishbones) to give the GTD more feeling.

Luc
 

Ian Clark

Supporter
Hi Lucas,

Couple of things, gas coming out of your Webers, very bad. Make sure your floats are set properly and you have no more than 2.5 > 3 lbs fuel pressure.

The heat sheilding around the Webers will drop the carb body temperatures by about 55 degress F. on the back two carbs. We were getting close to the boiling point. http://www.gt40s.com/ubbthreads/showflat...Post62716Here's the link:

Seems like each car is different and the pan has to be made to fit. Any good fabricator can do this.

Also check this link out. This will save you a ton of greif:) http://www.gt40s.com/ubbthreads/showflat...=true#Post64468

Cheers
 

Sandy

Gulf GT40
Lifetime Supporter
Kalun -

The dim bulb in my brain just went on /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif. The pan does not mount to the top of the throttle bodies, but the bottom on the manifold!

Sandy
 

Chris Duncan

Supporter
Sandy,

HEY, I resemble that statement, I'm a 15 watt bulb in a 100 watt world.

The pan mounts sandwiched between the Tbodies and the manifold. The extra holes are for vacuum lines going from each Tbody to a common junction block mounted underneath.

Will do a cad drawing when I get time. Need to keep my cad skills from getting rusty anyway.

Luc,

for anyone that makes racing bike frames, a cold air box should be a "piece of cake" and $800 is WAY TOO MUCH.
 

Sandy

Gulf GT40
Lifetime Supporter
Kalun, I hear that /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

And I'll be happy to have a look at your CAD for the turkey pan when you do it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Another thought, and doesn't look like a problem, but does it clear the distributor (dizzy for other folks)?

Sandy
 

Chris Duncan

Supporter
Definitely does not clear the distributor. The TWM stuff barely clears so it's going to be tight if you need dist clearance. Small caps are the only thing that will work, not even enough room for a large HEI cap.

Looking at the parts manual the pan on the original car looks like it doesn't really have a tight seal, just a cut out at the dist location.
 
From my reading on the restoration of 1076 (re racing icons), the cold air pan they made has a cutout for the dizzy. also interesting is they added phenolic spacers under the Webers to help isolate heat.

intakeplenum.jpg


Bill D
 

Sandy

Gulf GT40
Lifetime Supporter
Thanks Bill/Kalun

I have Keith using a small cap MSD distributor for the engine so hopefully it will clear the mainfold. I saw the same 'turkey pan' on the site and that's why I was asking. Only a bit more work to make it fit. The racing icon's site has some really nice shots for some of the parts used.

Sandy
 
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