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Old 08-06-06, 05:36 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Question 289 engine ident?

I have acquired two 289 lumps this weekend. Is there a source of information where I can find out their origins?
The numbers on the blocks are as follows:

Engine #1: These numbers are on the underside of the block:
0(?)4DE-8015-BA
5K1 (?) 8K1 (?) BK1 (?)

Engine # 2: On the upper surface 'tween the followers reads: 0-289
Then on the under side it reads:
5K16
0\05AE-6015E
The numbers from engine # 2 are definitely correct. # 1 is a bit sketchy because of it's age. #1 also has had a 0.040" overbore which looks good.
Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 08-06-06, 05:53 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Graham

You need the book 'How to rebuild your Small Block Ford' by Tom Munroe. It has all the information on identifing parts and lots of information that will be invaluable during your rebuild. I have a copy if you would like me to come over one evening and go through it and identify your engines. I would also like to have a look at your chassis.

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Old 08-06-06, 07:01 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Go look at this site - it will tell you about the numbers for ford engines

http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod/engine.html
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Old 08-06-06, 07:29 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by graham inchley
I have acquired two 289 lumps this weekend. Is there a source of information where I can find out their origins?
The numbers on the blocks are as follows:

Engine #1: These numbers are on the underside of the block:
0(?)4DE-8015-BA
5K1 (?) 8K1 (?) BK1 (?)

Engine # 2: On the upper surface 'tween the followers reads: 0-289
Then on the under side it reads:
5K16
0\05AE-6015E
The numbers from engine # 2 are definitely correct. # 1 is a bit sketchy because of it's age. #1 also has had a 0.040" overbore which looks good.
Any help would be appreciated.

Engine #1: Probably C4DE-6015-BA, 5-bolt bell housing from 1963-64
Could the date code be 3K1? This block was cast on October 1st of whatever year is indocated by the first digit, but 5, 8, and B all seem unlikely... 3K1 would make it a block most likley out of a 1964 model year car.

Engine #2: Again, probably C5AE-6015E, 6-bolt bell housing from 1965-67.
Date code 5K16 = October 16, 1965 so this was most likely for a 1966 model year car.
It's possible that this was a High Performance engine - C5AE-E is correct. Apparently the only difference is that the HP289s has beefier main bearing caps. Also "the HP289 was color coded with an orange paint swatch on the rear face of the block, or in front of the flywheel or flexplate to distinguish it from the standard 289 block."
If it really says 0\05AE-6015E then you have something rather unusual - perhaps not a normal production engine???

Also look for an assembly date code located "on the block deck just below the distributor and just above the fuel pump" This may have been machined off if hte deck was milled... But these probably would not appear on something that was not a production engine.
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Old 08-07-06, 03:24 AM   #5 (permalink)
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289 Engine Ident.

Gentlemen all.

Thank you for these points, very interesting.
Brian, it would be great if you could come on over, I'll send a PM later.

Dave, I'll check that sight out tonight.

Toner (?). I'll take a more detailed look at the numbers on engine #1, it's quite difficult to make it out. The numbers on engine # 2 are definitely correct! There are also raised markings that read "FoMoto" on various parts of the block. I think the thing to do is post some pictures tonight.

Cheers again.
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Old 08-10-06, 02:23 PM   #6 (permalink)
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bloc'n'ed.

Pictures of the oldest block # C4OE-BA
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Old 08-10-06, 02:30 PM   #7 (permalink)
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bloc'n'ed

The block is definitely a 1964 HP289. Having looked at it for a while now I reckon it's good for use. If blocks like this do crack where am I likely to find the damage?
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Old 08-10-06, 02:52 PM   #8 (permalink)
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bloc'n'ed

Here are some details about the heads that came off the motor:

C4OE (4A13)

There are no pushrod support guides 'tween exhaust ports. There is also a ring of numerals: 19753.

Does any one recognise the intake manifold? I can't find a number on it any where.

Brian, the books you brought round are excellent, thank you.

Phot's:
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Old 08-10-06, 03:10 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Bad 'ed - good 'ed?

On the other motor (C5AE-E) the heads look quite a lot different. It has pushrod guides 'tween the exhaust ports, the valve springs are quite a bit smaller in diameter and has weird tubes that protrude into the exhaust port from a tapped insert adjacent the port. The casting mark says: C6O4 - 5J17 with 66-289 on the opposite part of the casting. The cast circle of numbers on this head reads: 1397.
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Old 08-10-06, 06:13 PM   #10 (permalink)
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the heads marked C6 are from 1966 - if they have ports as described (threaded) that was for the "Thermactor" (sp?) pump emissions connections.

on the block that you state is a 1964 block, from the back it looks like it has 6 bell housing bolts - if it does, something is screwy as the 1964 to early 65 blocks were all 5-bolt bell housing patterns (at least I don't think the HP engines had 6-bolt patterns - - - - ).
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Old 08-10-06, 07:32 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Lightbulb Are You Sure???

Quote:
Originally Posted by daveharris
the heads marked C6 are from 1966 - if they have ports as described (threaded) that was for the "Thermactor" (sp?) pump emissions connections.

on the block that you state is a 1964 block, from the back it looks like it has 6 bell housing bolts - if it does, something is screwy as the 1964 to early 65 blocks were all 5-bolt bell housing patterns (at least I don't think the HP engines had 6-bolt patterns - - - - ).
I think you may find that the "1964" block is actually a '1974 Mex 302' ( D4--) that has been used to replace old block. Two things point to this. 1. The Triangular water holes slightly to the right & above each cyl bore ( 289's of 64 vintage did not have these). 2. Early 289's had the oil filler tube in the alloy timing cover which lined up with the 5 sided cavity above the water pump transfer port which opened into the lifter valley. On this block that cavity does not appear to be opened up to allow this.

Knew there was something else, has the lug @ front RH by #1 got a threaded 3/8"unc hole parallel to crank, if so its after 1969.

Jac Mac

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Old 08-13-06, 05:13 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Smile D4OE

I think you guys are correct in your anallegies! I shall stick with the D4__ block as it has been rebored already. Checked the crank throw last night - 2.87", good. I think I shall contact a V8 builder in the south as one of the heads requires some work where a valve has dropped before. This part of the build/information gathering has been very interesting, it's great having such experience at hand from all round the globe, many thanks.
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Old 08-26-06, 09:52 PM   #13 (permalink)
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302 Mex block

Lucky you....this is one of the better 2-bolt vintage Ford blocks, they have a higher nickel content and are tougher than non-Mexico blocks. According to the books I have, somewhere on the block it should say "Hecho en Mexico". They have thicker main caps as well. Good for you.
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Old 08-27-06, 06:07 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Cheers Jimbo,

I have spent most the weekend sorting out tools etc for the build. Purchased a compressor, spray gun, windy drill, blow gun etc. Next time I get to the block I'll check it out for the markings you mention above.
By the way, I have located a Ford V8 guru via Mick Sollis. Hopefully the head with the dropped valve damage is repairable as these are good heads to use. I am debating whether to use the existing rocker support stems or upgrade to a tapped type???? Is there a maximum lift datum for the convertion i.e. what is the maximum lift the standard rocker stud will put up with? I am using the Edelbrock 7122 cam.
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Old 08-27-06, 06:17 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Bent'ed

Just found this picture of the offending damage to the intake valve area.
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Old 08-27-06, 07:08 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by graham inchley
Cheers Jimbo,

I am debating whether to use the existing rocker support stems or upgrade to a tapped type???? .
Do you mean screw in versus pressed in rocker studs?

Absolutely no doubt - screw in studs every time.
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Old 08-30-06, 10:40 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Screwed.

Yep, that makes sense. I think with the 7122 cam I have no other option really.
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