Bottom end old and new

Ross Nicol · 08-07-06, 10:52 PM

Had the sumps off both my old and new motors yesterday. See if you can spot which is which. Very nice bottom end on the new motor. All internally balanced and I'll be able to rev to 7000 rpm no problem with all that steel around.
Ross

Sandy · 08-08-06, 01:19 AM

Ross -

Looks very nice, crank looks well worked as well. Now you should have no excuse for the Sniffin' Porsche Exhaust

Sandy

Mark Worthington · 08-08-06, 02:16 AM

Looks good, Ross. Have you considered using threaded caps in the casting plugs to give the block that extra little bit of strength that it might need at 7,000 rpm?

Jac Mac · 08-08-06, 02:47 AM

Hi Ross, I hope thats a double row timing chain & the other row is being blocked off from view by the front main cap. Also are you going to rebalance your old flywheel to zero to suit this combo. Apart fom that everything looks good from here.

Jac Mac

Ross Nicol · 08-08-06, 03:11 AM

No Mark I have to fit the Motor in as is. It has run in the Daytona Cobra for a couple of race seasons with no problem. Jac Mac that certainly is a double row chain at the front.I had flat batteries in the camera and the flash didn't work too well. My flywheel is a Mcleod aluminium one and has the 50oz balance weight that was necessary for the old crank. I will obviously take the weight out, but would you recommend I have it rebalanced? Great to have expert engine people around with no financial or vested overservicing interest.
Ross

Jac Mac · 08-08-06, 04:46 AM

Ross, Do you have the flywheel that came with your new motor. Take it with you when you get the alloy flywheel balanced. Get them to check that it( The 'new' motors original flywheel ) is @ Zero balance before doing the work on your alloy one. Also find a Balance shop with a Sunnen DCB 750? Machine to do the work if possible.

If the original flywheel still has a percentage of counterweight in it you may have to look at a full rebalance or a mirror balance ( I think you know how I feel about that process)

Jac Mac

Ross Nicol · 08-08-06, 06:02 AM

A steel 50oz weight was attatched with screws to the alloy flywheel so removal is simple. I have confirmed with Richard today (previous owner of new motor) that the crank was internally balanced and the steel flywheel doesn't appear to be counterweighted. So if I remove the weight from my alloy f/wheel can I assume it is Zero balanced and would be ok to use as is, or should I remove the weight and take the 2 f/wheels to be checked.I had the clutch/flywheel balanced when the original motor went together.
Thanks Jac Mac
Ross

Jac Mac · 08-08-06, 06:51 AM

I would still get the Flywheel rebalanced as the now empty screw holes that the weight was attached to could be enough to throw the balance out. Checking the balance of the flywheels should not cost a lot as they can be checked on a mandrel rather than fitted to a crank assy. Dont 'Assume' nuthin when it comes to this stuff, cos 'nuthin' cost's lots in the long run. With your clutch you should be OK as long as the clutch was balanced seperately after the crank/flywheel/damper assy had been done.

Jac Mac

Jac Mac

Ross Nicol · 08-08-06, 08:34 AM

I totally agree with you on the don't assume anything Jac Mac. The flywheels will be checked. The machine shop I use is well known in the V8 Supercar circle so their work is of a high standard. I had to notch the side of my sump to clear the 4 bolt mains caps but it's on and the motor is sitting in position for fit checks. It's got a long nose water pump and alt on the opposite side to
my original but I'm going to put clearance lumps in the bulkhead panel. Maintaining the original pulleys for water pump, alt and oil pump will save a lot of time and is also a proven working unit.
Thanks for the input
Ross