MK-I MK-II MK-III MK-IV GULF MIRAGE J-CAR LOLA
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Why not start with your first post today and become an active part of GT40s.com now! And, if you find you enjoy GT40s.com think about becoming a Forum Supporter. | | GT40 Tech - Engines/Induction/Exhaust Motors and engine related - right here! |
03-19-07, 04:31 PM
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#1 (permalink)
| | bune Bronze Supporter 
Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Norway GT40: monocoque gt40
Posts: 103
Rep Power: 5  | Engine ID I am close to buy a engine a 1966 Ford 289hp engine , but not quite sure if I'm getting the right stuff (to far away to travel for a look). First info is engine(block) number C8OE-6015A
The people will take of the oilpan and send me pictures from this, how do I find out that it is a 289hp ?? How can I see this from pictures or from numbers?
Regards Rune |
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03-19-07, 04:53 PM
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#2 (permalink)
| | ahirsbrunner Administrator 
Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Chicago, IL USA GT40: RCR-40 #24
Posts: 478
Rep Power: 8  | Re: Engine ID Hi Bune,
I believe that C8OE-6015A is a 67/68 302 block. I'm sure there are more knowledgeable folks that can comment further...
Regards,
Al |
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03-19-07, 05:01 PM
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#3 (permalink)
| | jac mac 10 tenths 
Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Gore N.Z.
Posts: 1,760
Rep Power: 23   | Re: Engine ID Last year of production for 289 Hi Po was 1967. Ordinary 289 stopped in 1968. Since this block is C80E--- ( 1968 ) I do not like your chances. However if they will pull the pan/sump and send you photos there are 3 obvious points;
There should be a thin counterweight sandwiched between crank timing sprocket & front main (approx 4mm thick).
The main brg caps should be fully machined on front & rear faces.( no cast reliefs).
The connecting rod bolts should require a 9/16" spanner to remove the nut's.
The possibility exists that it could be a re-blocked 289 Hi Po so the easiest way to ID heads is look for screw in rocker studs along with raised casting around valve spring pockets.
Jac Mac |
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03-19-07, 05:12 PM
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#4 (permalink)
| | YerDugliness Lifetime Premier Supporter 
Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: near Houston TX GT40: Yellow Wix MKII
Posts: 608
Rep Power: 9  | Re: Engine ID Quote:
Originally Posted by jac mac There should be a thin counterweight sandwiched between crank timing sprocket & front main (approx 4mm thick). Jac Mac | Just curious, Jac, as to the function of this thin counterweight. Did the 271 hp 289 balance differently than the regular 289's? If so, did the 271hp 289 require a different flywheel?
Thanks! I drove a '64 Fairlane with a 271hp 289/4 speed and that is what started my love affair with the high-winding SBF--love the sound of those solid lifters and didn't mind the tinkering necessary to keep them lashed. How I wish someone would recognize the classic lines of that Fairlane and start making a kit.
Doug
__________________ YD,E./PNB
Retired and attempting to age disgracefully |
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03-19-07, 05:24 PM
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#5 (permalink)
| | bune Bronze Supporter 
Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Norway GT40: monocoque gt40
Posts: 103
Rep Power: 5  | Re: Engine ID Just got these pictures, but they do not tell me what engine, I'm very glad that You can supply me with help here
Rune |
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03-19-07, 06:14 PM
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#6 (permalink)
| | jac mac 10 tenths 
Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Gore N.Z.
Posts: 1,760
Rep Power: 23   | Re: Engine ID It would appear that they are 289 heads ( the only clue is the exposed thread area on the heads for the 4 corner bolts of the intake manifold-- on later 302 heads these are enclosed by the head casting ) and the narrow width of the outer damper ring also points to a standard 289/302 crankshaft etc. Looks like the heads may have some porting work done and the fact that rocker covers have been extended to clear either roller rockers or stud girdle suggests that there may be some good bits inside.
Ask them to remove a rocker cover and take a close up shot of the valve spring pocket etc and into the ex port , along with any casting numbers . Of course if they are up with the play the price may change if they know what to look for.
Jac Mac |
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03-19-07, 06:32 PM
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#7 (permalink)
| | jac mac 10 tenths 
Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Gore N.Z.
Posts: 1,760
Rep Power: 23   | Re: Engine ID Sorry Doug did not see your post when I replied to Rune.
The connecting rods in the 289 Hi Po ( also Boss 302 ) were 60 grams heavier than the std rod. Damper was also specific to these motors. Not sure if flywheel was different or they were balanced as an assy since crank was also Hi-nodular cast item as well. By using the thin counterweight in that position the balance is closer to the area that requires its counterweight effect.
I agree, those 65's are one of quite a few old Fords I would like to have if it was not for the 'rust' factor. I call all that sort of car ' 50 ft ' types. They look great @ that distance, but the closer you get-----!
Jac Mac |
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03-19-07, 07:29 PM
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#8 (permalink)
| | llarsen Admin 
Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Raleigh, NC GT40: Sabre
Posts: 2,074
Rep Power: 29   | Re: Engine ID I had a '65 Mustang with the Hi-Po 289 in it and I loved that car. It was one of three vehicles I wish I still had. The other two being a '63 Vette with the big valve 327 and my '53 Pan Head Harley.
Oh well..............
Lynn
__________________ Sabre GT40/5L EFI/G50/50
Always verify parts or products discussed for your own use. |
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03-19-07, 08:59 PM
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#9 (permalink)
| | MikeP 2 Tenths 
Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Oldham England GT40: GTD + GTD
Posts: 277
Rep Power: 6  | Re: Engine ID According to the George Reid book the block number indicates that the block is 1968 (C is 60's and 8 for year) The O indicates that the block is from a Fairlane or Torino. the 6015 indicates that this is a block! I guess you knew that! The A indicates that this is an original type of part with no revisions. All Boss engine blocks have both four bolt main caps and screw in core plugs. Hope this helps.
Mike |
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03-20-07, 10:31 PM
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#10 (permalink)
| | YerDugliness Lifetime Premier Supporter 
Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: near Houston TX GT40: Yellow Wix MKII
Posts: 608
Rep Power: 9  | Re: Engine ID Quote:
Originally Posted by jac mac I call all that sort of car ' 50 ft ' types. They look great @ that distance, but the closer you get-----!
Jac Mac | I call 'em 50-50 cars. They look pretty good going by at 50 MPH and 50 feet, but the closer you get-----!
Thanks for the great explanation on that crank. I knew about the nodular crank but had no idea about the counterweight, but I really like the idea of applying the balance in the critical area--maybe that was the reason those 289 hp's reved so nicely.
Cheers!
Doug
__________________ YD,E./PNB
Retired and attempting to age disgracefully |
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