oil pans

bryn jones · 10-11-07, 04:59 PM

Hi Guys,
Any one used a Canton 15-630 oil pan, or can anyone recomend one that is better.

regards Bryn

Bill D · 10-11-07, 05:04 PM

Armando's

Neal · 10-11-07, 06:22 PM

Milodon 31600 Front Sump 7qt Road Race

**brianstewart** · 10-11-07, 06:43 PM

Aviaid. Expensive, but very nice.

Keith Hardy · 10-11-07, 08:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brianstewart

Aviaid. Expensive, but very nice.

And original equipment, yes?

Pat Buckley · 10-11-07, 09:06 PM

Yes.

Another vote here for Avaiad.

Bill Musarra · 10-11-07, 09:29 PM

Kevko has a nice one. Multi baffled, comes with pickup. The inside pic doesn't show the scrubber that eliminates a lot of splash. It's off to the right of the oil pan.

Bill

Big-Foot · 10-11-07, 09:42 PM

This is what I ended up with. As I recall it is 8" deep;

Fran Hall RCR · 10-11-07, 10:07 PM

I like the 15-630 unit , it's the one we recommend...

I like the fact that if you have an off and hit the pan you may escape with a dented steel pan but not a cracked aluminum casting..

Big-Foot · 10-11-07, 10:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gt40fran

I like the 15-630 unit , it's the one we recommend...

I like the fact that if you have an off and hit the pan you may escape with a dented steel pan but not a cracked aluminum casting..

Ordinarily I'd agree with you... This casting is NOT thin.. Easily 1/2" thick at the minimum (not including fins).. If it hangs down too far I won't use it - I'll just put it on a Cobra or something else..

Mark Worthington · 10-12-07, 01:22 AM

If it's a casting with a minimum 1/2" thickness then it must weigh an awful lot. I'll second Bill's recommendation to look at Armando's. I used his part # 405 pan. He charges a $100 premium over steel for a nice TIG welded aluminum pan.

Also make sure you know the dimensions and packaging constraints of your engine bay - the guy who I bought my kit from used a pricey Aviaid pan per the original cars but it wouldn't fit in my car because RF uses a chassis cross brace in the engine compartment, and the brace was in the way of the Aviaid pan sump. You can tell Armando exactly how you want your pan - let him know if you need extra clearance for crank throws or a stud girdle and tell him how you want him to set up the dipstick bung.

Fred/Belgium · 10-12-07, 06:41 AM

Another for Aviaid.
Simply the best to my understanding.

Fred

Big-Foot · 10-12-07, 08:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark Worthington

If it's a casting with a minimum 1/2" thickness then it must weigh an awful lot.

Aye - That it does... When the package first arrived I remember thinking - Gee, I'm not expecting a cylinder head in the delivery... It's probably 25-30#..

John · 10-12-07, 09:42 AM

According to another board I visit, Aviaid has had some quality issues in the last couple of years. Saw a photo of a pan that was ordered for clearance for a 4 bolt block. It looked pretty rough. They simply took a hammer to the rear of the pan to provide the clearance. They have also been known to use a cut off bolt and washer as a drain plug. I'm currently using a rear sump Canton, complete with baffles, trap doors and scraper. I've been having a problem under severe braking with a loss of pressure. It's not critically low, but it does drop to about 30 PSI from a normal 50 PSI. I've just ordered an Armando's pan in the front sump configuration, hopefully to cure the pressure drop under braking. John

MikeP · 10-12-07, 02:22 PM

Mick Sollis of Southern GT is manufacturing copies of the original GT40 sump pan. In addition to the original appearance and function (wide wings, baffled and gated) they are less deep and do not stick down beyond the bottom of the chassis where they can get hit and holed by speed humps and the other obstructions on our wonderfully smooth roads.
Cheers
Mike

Scott Calabro · 10-12-07, 05:56 PM

I am using Moroso P/N 20505. I got it cheaper than the same Canton pan.

Cheers,
S

Sandy · 10-12-07, 07:25 PM

I have used the Canton pan, an Aviaid, and the Armondo. The Canton pan is nice, but a pain if using 4 bolt blocks. Also has the scraper that will need to be hammered down for some stroker applications. The canton is gold colored, while the others are silver.

The Aviaid I have commented on in the past had poor QC and on top of that a pickup full of welding slag that I could not imagine getting out the door. The pan leaked on first install (Bad weld) and the skid plate in not sealed to the bottom of the pan where the drain plug is so oil catches under it when you drain it. Also had paid extra for the SVO 4 bolt clearance which ended up being 50 bucks for a hammer job, that still didn't fit. So, no, not happy with them at all. Pan was also expensive.

I have 3 different Armondo pans, one on the GT40 which is an alloy dry sump, no problem mentioned when on the dyno. The others are one on my 65 Mustang that is the 9qt pan made for the 4 bolt block and fit, no leaks, skid plate welded so no oil gets captured. Just got a Sunbeam Tiger pan that was very nice too and a more complex pan, it is not on the car yet, but looks to be very well made and both the steel pans were a few bucks less then Aviaid. Don't remember if the side scrapers (windage ??) needed to be hammered on the 331's.

The only downside is Armondo is a bit low tech for ordering, so you will need to do a few phone calls, he takes paypal for a 3% charge or will take check or COD.

Sandy

kiwi ka · 10-14-07, 05:29 AM

If you could not buy any good pan for your motor, what are some of the tricks you should get up to, to stop oil surge in a rear sump pan.

Jac Mac · 10-14-07, 05:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by russell k

If you could not buy any good pan for your motor, what are some of the tricks you should get up to, to stop oil surge in a rear sump pan.

Russell,
I assume your talking in terms of your own setup. If it was mine I would block off the original pickup gallery in the block & fabricate an external pickup tube for the pan along with a new end plate for the pump with provision for remote filter/cooler. Also the Rover design lends itself to fabricating a windage/scraper tray of full length that sandwich's between pan/block. Having done that all you should need is a horizontal baffle welded completley around its edge over the well area of the pan with a central oval drain opening,which in turn has another horizontal baffle fixed on 1/4" spacer's below it . In this way the oil runs over the baffle plates undisturbed by windage and allows time for the aeration to seperate.
Jac Mac