Help with engine choice.

[Jac Mac]

Originally Posted by John Lowe

An old classic (much like me'self I suppose)

A piece of tin
A length of chord
Put it together
And there's a FORD

(Byron?)

Just joining in on the thread drift.

John

Talking a piece of 'TIN' & 'CHORD' length would make me think your refering to 'This' FORD.
Must be a record for 'Drift' & one hell of a crosswind!

Jac Mac

[Simon]

Drift away guys.

[Howard Jones]

Tire expansion: I have a 300HP at the wheels 302. It makes about 300 ft/lbs of torque from 3K to about 5300. I also have a quaife TBD in the R21 that is in my car. The tires on the rear of the car are 315x35x17 Sumotomos Z rated summer max performance. They are right at the limmit of grip under full power at any speed under 60-65mph. Remember that's equal power to both tires because of the Quaife.

What I am saying is tires that are not at least rated 200 or less for wear. Z rated and max summer will not fare well on track. I say this with a mild 350Hp in mind. With 200 more I just can't imagine trying to really push a car on street tires even if they are the top of the line max grip type. KDA BF Goodrich come to mind as well as the MX Kumos.

These type of tires are not made in 15 inch as far as I know except for historic type race simi slick tires. They are at least twice the price of the very good 17 inch max summer tires.

Then you have several DOT aproved groved slicks that are avaiable in 17 inch such as the Hoosiers (sp?) everyone seems to be using at the track days I have attended.

On top of the tire issue there is the brake one. Very nearly anything you want to, or need to do with brakes will fit inside a 17 inch wheel without any drama. 15's can be difficult to work with rotors much bigger than 11 1/2 " in most cases. Don't jump down my back guys, I know it has been done but you know it is a lot easier with 17 inch wheels.

So I think if you are in the market for wheels and you intend to install a 400-500 hp motor you would be well served to consider 17 inch wheels for may reasons.

[Jerry Beck II]

Skipping from a drift to a leap...

To offend all:

AMC 401 (steel crank and rods from the factory in ALL 401s)

Right out of a junkyard International school bus from the mid '70s - $150
Cleanup bore .020 and new cam bearings, check crank/rods - $250
.020 Forged pistons - $500
Edelbrock Aluminium heads - ~$1000
Edelbrock R4B intake (180Deg med hirise dual plane 1500-7500) -$200
Reed cam/lifters - $150
E-brock 900cfm 3-barrell - Ebay - $200
Ed's Headers flanges to cut onto an existing F302 180 deg header - $150
Timing chain, oil pump, oil mods, etc... - $500

About $3100 for 425 HP/465 Ft/Lbs...

Is smaller and weighs less than an a 351...

Hewland made transaxle bellhousings for them...



But mostly:

Offends all - Priceless

[429Mustang]

I'm partial to the aluminum stroked Windsor. Dynojet chassis dyno.

[Steve Briscoe]

Originally Posted by 429Mustang

I'm partial to the aluminum stroked Windsor. Dynojet chassis dyno.

Do you have specs on that motor? Looks interesting.

Thanks,
Steve

[429Mustang]

Originally Posted by 60-61

Do you have specs on that motor? Looks interesting.

Thanks,
Steve

434ci Aluminum Windsor
Dart Block
4" stroke, 4.155" bore
TFS High Port heads ported by TEA (305@.400, 365@.700)
Solid Roller .688"/290
Super Victor intake
2" headers