Radiator Repair

Jim Dewar · 12-13-07, 10:28 AM

I have a defective new (3k miles) radiator. I need repair or replacement and would like advise for possibilities in US before calling Roaring Forties for a replacement.
Thanks in advance!!

Scott Calabro · 12-13-07, 11:28 AM

Hi Jim,

If it is copper / brass, any competent radiator shop can repair it.

If it is aluminum alloy its a little tricky depending on where it is leaking.

The tanks can be welded.

Sometimes the core can be repaired with an epoxy depending on the extent of the damage.

If you choose to go new, we have both types available.

Copper / brass, @ 345.00 RBP

Aluminum alloy, @ 425.00 RBP

I may still be able to get one in the crate with chassis #875 if you are ready to buy, to save you shipping to the USA.

Merry Christmas,
Scott

Fran Hall RCR · 12-13-07, 11:31 AM

Jim,

the RCR alum. rads are available for $450...I just shipped one to a non RCR customer in Mass. last week.

regards

Tony Hunt · 12-13-07, 11:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by swede30

I would like advise for possibilities in US before calling Roaring Forties for a replacement.

You won't get very far if you try contacting Robert Logan..........

Tony

Chris Simpson · 12-13-07, 01:49 PM

The New Roaring Forties are up and running (they bought the assets from the receiver responsible for handling the demise of Robert logan's company). They have been very helpful to date.

Chris

Paul Thompson 'Hooligan' · 12-13-07, 03:56 PM

I'll second that!! -

Give Paul at the New RF a call/email and I'm sure he'll be able to assist.

Dimi · 12-14-07, 05:17 AM

This situation is the exact reason why I refused to even consider an aluminium radiator for my GT40 build.

I had a custom copper radiator made so that in the unlucky event of damage or a leak it can be easily repaired by any radiator shop with minimal costs.

Dimi

Andy Sheldon · 12-14-07, 04:25 PM

Hi

We have copper radiators available also.

Thanks

Andy

Charlie M · 12-22-07, 12:39 PM

Jim,

I bought the RCR radiator Fran mentioned above. I think it looks pretty good. I also think it would be hard to find one for less money (a new one anyway).

I've purchased parts from Australia. The currency exchange rate isn't bad but the shipping costs are very expensive.

If you can't fix the one you have, I would consider Fran's.

Charlie

Bobski · 12-23-07, 04:29 AM

Hey Jim, sorry to hear about your radiator. The main reason alunimium radiators fail is electrolosus (hope I spelled that right). If your radiator is not rubber mounted or is in contact with the body in any way, electric current will run through the water and through the radiator and back to the body (least resistive path) and burn holes in your core. So once you install any radiator, it's very important to test the resistance between the body and radiator with an ohms meter. Hope that helps.

Jim c · 12-23-07, 02:44 PM

Adding to Bobs comments.
If you have stray current the inside of the radiator will start to turn black.
This is due to it becoming a battery.

you are looking for less than 0.2 of a volt between earth and the water in cooling system.

Jim Dewar · 12-23-07, 09:31 PM

Thanks for your ideas, I have no contact (all insulated) just a bum core at the epoxy seam.
I thought electrolysis would take a longer period (3k miles) to ruin a radiator.

Jim Dewar · 02-17-08, 08:18 PM

MY NIGHTMARE CONTINUES!! I replaced my radiator with an RCR which worked very nicely.
I have driven approximately 300 miles in the last 2 weeks and yesterday I returned from a 100 mile trip to find drops of coolant coming from the radiator again! I looked at the radiator and once again the drops were forming at the core where the tubes enter the epoxy ends.
The original radiator lasted 3,000 miles, not 300!!!!!!!! I checked for (electrolysis) stray voltage and the level is below .1VDC which I read as o/k, I hope. I have a bypass hose from the radiator to the expansion tank(standard on RF). I have all standard RF components which should be o/k, as I don't hear complants like this from other owners.
I do have a strange problem with hunting engine temperature (I have replaced the thermostat 2 times 180*f). It hunts from 180*f to 150*f and back again as long as I am moving at a reasonable speed (I can Idle as long as I wish).
Today I performed a cooling system combustion gas test which was O/K!! I thought maybe to much pressure in the cooling system (headgasket leak pressurizing cooling system), but wouldn't the 13lb. expansion cap relieve this problem?
I also installed a 3/4" restrictor washer at the radiator inlet and it didn't change the unstable temperature (this has been occuring since the car was 1st driven 4,500 miles ago). HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

DaveWharran · 02-18-08, 08:04 PM

Jim,
I had trouble early on with radiator core to tank failures. I'm running a variable speed electric pump.
Turns out that the electric water pump controller program was great for fast engine warm ups, but would shock the radiator with 180/190 degree water all at once causing the core (thin aluminum) to crack from the tank (thicker aluminum). There is no thermostat in my setup.
The cure was to keep the electric pump moving at a minimum speed all the time, including warm up. This results in a little longer engine warm up but circulates the ever warming water through the radiator.
ERA recommends a hole in the thermostat which should do the same thing as the minimum speed thing I did with my pump.
If you feel the water pipe coming from the engine just before the radiator, it should warm up gradually, not all at once.

Dave

Fran Hall RCR · 02-18-08, 08:38 PM

Jim,

send it back and we will repair FOC.....so you can have another try...

Regards

Jim Dewar · 02-18-08, 09:35 PM

Thanks Dave, I either have some strange electrolysis or radiator shock from temperature surges which I certainly have. The new and old radiator failed in the same way, where the core meets the epoxy ends at the tank, leaks around the core tubes. The unstable temps can't be good and you are proof of that.

Thanks Fran, That is very generous!! I'll ship it UPS this week. You may be able to spot the cause of the failure at a glance and send me on the way to a solution.

Kalun D · 02-19-08, 01:29 AM

If you have aluminum heads they should have small bypass tubes running from the back of them (on the intake) to the back of the t-stat area.

Jim Dewar · 02-19-08, 06:36 AM

Thanks, Kalun, I have always had bypass hoses from the rear intake.
I just realized that this is a cold weather issue! This problem has happen since 1st winter driving, it was fine during summer (car was finished in July). The new radiator failed after a 250 mile trip to the Smokey mountains with temperatures in the 20*s F. Dave may have something with his "COLD SHOCK" theory.
The question is, how can I resolve this using a standard waterpump and why hasn't the problem been on the forum before. Why does the temperature vary wildly with 2 new thermostats and a restrictor washer at the radiator intake? Thanks for your responses!!

Big-Foot · 02-19-08, 07:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by swede30

The question is, how can I resolve this using a standard waterpump and why hasn't the problem been on the forum before. Why does the temperature vary wildly with 2 new thermostats and a restrictor washer at the radiator intake? Thanks for your responses!!

Are you 100% certain that you've been able to burp all the air from the system? A circulating air-bubble (large one) can also cause the water pump to stall / cavitate thereby causing the temo of the coolant in the block to spike. Also - a bubble at the thermostat will always cause it to fail to open as the thermostat will not read the temperature of the air in the bubble.

Not certain of the hoses you speak of at the rear of the intake - I've seen and used taps at the rear of the intake to purge air from the system.

Mighty nice of Fran on the FOC repair..