Problem with coolant hose

Bill D · 02-07-08, 09:13 PM

Installed my engine, and attempted to install the upper hoses from the thermostat housing to the transfer tubes in the tunnel. But lo and behold, they protrude into the cockpit!!!!!!

What are my options?

Do they make a different water neck?

Canuk40 · 02-07-08, 09:32 PM

Hi Bill,

I imagine Fran has a fix for that

Attached pic shows our short accesory drive package that accomodates forward and low (correct) engine placement. This setup will run with an almost flat firewall panel, only about an inch protrusion needed to clear the water pump nose and a/c pump clutch. There is all kind of space for air circulation to minimise heat soak.

The A/C Bracket is a CAV Canada part that fits any small block Ford water pump and aligns with all pulley configurations, very trick part.

Your simplest suggestion would be a horizontally oriented water outlet fitting rather than the OEM Ford part pointing strait up, works in a Mustang but this is whole different horse. Could be custom fab part but simple enough to make. We do that kind of work too...

Cheers

Chuck · 02-07-08, 09:42 PM

Bill:

I had the same issue. I wanted to keep the thermostat in the 'standard' location, so opted to modify a standard thermostat cover.

Finding a thermostat housing that would fit proved to be a real challenge. We finally settled on a generic housing (Stant 31418) and then cut out a notch and re welded it with a 30 degree backward angle.

I had a local welder cut the fitting and do the welding. For a pro this is an easy job and he did a nice job. I did make very detailed drawings so there would be no confusion.

A 180 degree thermostat was used. A standard Ford 302 bypass hose was added.

Even with this set up, the thermostat cover protrudes about a quarter of an inch inside the car, so a small ‘bubble’ will be added to the removable fire wall, similar to the bump to clear the pulley. I estimate that I will cut out a section about 6" long by 3" high and bring it in about a quarter of an inch. It will have no effect on the passenger seat and should be fairly inconspicious. This arrangement is tight, but there is enough clearance to, hopefully, avoid any problems.

I will make sure that the rubber hose does not contact the fire wall to avoid any wear due to engine vibration issues before this project is complete.

I looked a long time for a prefabricated fitting without success.

Your hose goes the other direction, but I expect the same approach would work for you.

Since you have a ZF tranny the mounting location of your engine may result in a slightly different configuration.

If anyone comes up with a better solution that keeps the thermostat in its 'stock' location I would sure like to see it.

A couple of pics follow. More on on by build log. Good luck.

Chuck

Chuck · 02-07-08, 09:51 PM

Ian:

Guess I need to eat my words. You appear to have a solution ready to go! Wish I had known about that before I went to all the trouble . . . . .

Queston: from the picture I cannot tell if the housing has room for a thermostat, although it appears to me that the thermostat would be external.

Chuck

Gregg · 02-07-08, 09:55 PM

Chuck, look at the firewall on the CAV again. From memory, I thought the RCR firewall is on a straight angle while it appears the CAV firewall has a bit of a curve to it. Love your build thread by the way. Top shelf all the way.

Bill D · 02-07-08, 10:09 PM

Oh goody! I get to custom fab another part!!!

Chuck · 02-07-08, 10:10 PM

Gregg:

I believe you are right. The angle of the CAV firewall and the RCR firewall are different, although I am not sure how much difference that would make with the top hose configuration.

Chuck

Gregg · 02-07-08, 10:35 PM

Chuck, in the end it really doesn't matter as you, Dean Lampe, Ron McCall and others have each solved the concern, if there was one, in their own respective ways. Keep the pictures coming.

Bill, I sent you a pm.

Canuk40 · 02-07-08, 10:52 PM

Hi Chuck, Gregg, Bill

Here's a couple more pics of the same install. It's easier to see the angle of the firewall (30degees) and the low engine position. The bulkhead windows on virtually all GT40 replicas are in the same place so that's a better reference point to guestimate by.

On the intake manifold and thermostat, there is roon for the thermostat and it's a Weber manifold so the area around the thermostat housing isn't quite the same.

The picture of the engine side of the firewall panel shows the relief for the A/C clutch and lower water pump pulley. The top half of the water pump bump could have been taken out completely but wed already had enough fun with fiberglass.

Bill, looks like an electronic distributor, what is it? I tried the MSD Electronic unit but it was WAY TOO HIGH so we went with the standard part and a 6AL

Cheers

Scott McDill · 02-08-08, 12:04 AM

Bill,
This might help.

eBay Motors: ALUMINUM WATER NECK FORD 289 302 351 COBRA KIT CAR (item 190197247245 end time Feb-17-08 19:22:51 PST)

Jeff Hamilton · 02-08-08, 05:02 AM

I posted on Mark's thread then seen it here also.
I used a CSR housing
CSR Swivel Thermostat Housings - summitracing.com
This worked great for me.
Jeff Hamilton

Bill D · 02-08-08, 06:28 AM

Thanks a million Jeff. That's exactly what I need. I ordered one today.

Thanks again
Bill

MReid · 02-08-08, 08:16 AM

Yes, Jeff, thanks! I ordered this one yesterday:

CSR Performance 9111C: CSR Swivel Thermostat Housings - summitracing.com

Jim Dewar · 02-08-08, 10:57 AM

That's the one I used, the big advantage was the removable heater bypass nipple which isn't used on the RF cars. I ordered a plug to replace the heater nipple which allowed me to swivel the large hose nipple in the perfect position.

MReid · 02-08-08, 11:54 AM

Jim,

That's actually the thermostat bypass hose. Not sure why you wouldn't need it? It is a function of the engine, not the vehicle.

Jim Dewar · 02-08-08, 03:17 PM

Sorry Mark, I must be mistaken about it's function. I incorrectly thought it was the warm water exit from the intake through the water pump to the cars heater core. We plug both the thermostat housing and both water pump inlet and outlet tubes.

Again, I apologize for my incorrect post!

MReid · 02-08-08, 04:55 PM

Jim,

Don't worry about the post, if you plug all four ports then you are plugging the bypass also. I always thought you had to have some coolant bypass the thermostat. It may be me who should apologize!

Jim Dewar · 02-08-08, 05:30 PM

My bypass is #4AN hose from the two rear corners of the intake manifold to the new CSR radiator outlet pipe to bypass trapped steam at the intake manifolds highest point.

Mike Drew · 02-09-08, 01:55 AM

All,

PI Motorsports (principally a Pantera shop, also formerly a CAV dealer) in Orange, CA makes a bolt-on thermostat housing for putting a 351W into a Pantera, and also used on their CAV cars. It covers up the bypass orifice, meaning you would have to plug the corresponding inlet on the water pump. The main water hose exits 90 degrees to the right.

They have boxes of them on the shelf, as they are made in bulk. They don't list them on their website however.

Contact info is at Pantera, DeTomaso, PI Motorsports

I would presume that you would want to modify the thermostat to enable it to flow some water even when closed, since the stock bypass is no longer in play?