Which Ford Engine for my car?

I have read various threads on here re engines etc, but my question is this: which Ford V8 should I try to source for my car? Now, I know this depends on many things, but I shall try to narrow it down a bit so that some of you experts can help me out.

I am based in Scotland. My car currently has a 3.5l Rover V8 (derivative of Buick) which runs fine and is nice and light in the car. I would like at some time soon to change this to a Ford V8 to make the car more original. I don't want to spend thousands on an engine right now, but I am happy to buy something and do it up over time. I also don't want silly horsepower as I doubt the chassis/brakes would take it! Max I am looking for is 200-300bhp. I see there are various types/blocks/sizes etc.......but which should I go for? The car will only see road use, no track days or racing etc. I don't want to start a long debate........but can anyone give me some guidance????? I know nothing about these engines.......yet!

Thanks in advance.......
 

Howard Jones

Supporter
Any 289 or 302 that is rebuilt to stock standards with the following will be fine for you. Use heads with 1.94 intake valves and 1.54 exausts. 9 to 1 compression ratio, a mild hyd cam of about 270 duration and aprox. .400 lift, and a 600cfm holley.

This ought to get you about 1hp per inch.
 
Aluminum heads are nice as they allow you to run a little higher compression and save a bunch of weight as well - and they look good! Ford Racing makes a nice 302 crate engine with aluminum heads and some nice go-fast bits which is good for 345hp at the flywheel for under $4,500.
 

Mike Pass

Supporter
The problem with a new engine is the emissions levels which depend on the age of the engine. If you can find a good old motor then that would be ideal. Lots of people upgrade their engines and sell on good used motors. Alternatively a good rebuilt motor on a good reconditioned block may save you aggro at MOT time. The lightest of the iron blocks is the 302 (5litre) (about 150lbs bare). Good old blocks can be bought from many sources. Ebay , "cut out" engine importers and engine builders are good sources. The age of the block can be found by looking under the "ledge" at the right rear of the engine It can only be seen from below. It will look something like C8AE-C. The important bits are the first two. The letter gives the decade C is 60's D is 70's E is eighties etc. The next number is the year. So C8 is 1968 block. The next letter gives the car it came from. (D -Falcon, S - Thunderbird, Z- Mustang, O Fairlanetorino Etc.) The last letter is the engineering group who built it. You can use these numbers to prove the age of your motor. If the block is old enough the only MOT emissions requirement is that it doesn't visibly smoke!
Check that the block has no cracks and it has a standard bore which is 4". This will take a +30thou rebore. Get a local V8 engine workshop to check the mains alignment and then deck the block to square it up. Then bore and hone with a torque plate. Clean very, very thoroughly especially the oil galleries. Fit new brass core plugs and cam bearings. you should then have really good foundation for an engine that will last years. Parts are now very cheap due to the Pound/dollar exchange rate. If you don't want to build it up there are many good builders of small blocks around. For the power you want you can use very cheap standard bits. Alloy heads are now very cheap and well worthwhile fitting - a lot more pwer and you save 44lbs in weight on the pair of heads. A good weight loss and from high up in the chassis. Also the Edelbrock Performer Air Gap inlet manifold (Holley 4 barrell carb) is good item - quite cheap, light and gives very good power and torque.
Hope this helps
Cheers
Mike
 

Steve Briscoe

Lifetime Supporter
which Ford V8 should I try to source for my car?

If you want it quick and cheap and don't mind someone else building it, get a Ford 302 based crate motor that meets your specifications. With the horsepower range of 200-300, there are many suppliers that will meet those parameters and provide a limited warranty. If you're going to build it, get a 302 block. They're cheap and there are many to choose from. If you have any extra money, spend it on the cylinder heads. Examine the flow charts and rpm ranges so the heads perform in concert with your driving style. It's amazing how much more horsepower is produced when up to date and reasonably priced heads are installed on an average motor design from the 60s or 70s. Have fun and good luck!

Steve
 
One other consideration if you are thinking about aftermarket or Ford Z heads. Try to stay with heads that have the exhaust ports in the stock location. This is probably not an issue with your modest HP requirements, but worth keeping in mind if you buy the engine from an individual. GT40 exhaust systems for a 302 engine, will typically not fit heads with raised exhaust ports. Several people have found this out the hard way!
 
<snip>
I don't want to spend thousands on an engine right now, but I am happy to buy something and do it up over time.
<snip>
Either a 289 or a 302 block would be a good choice. Just keep in mind that both came in multiple versions. There are a number of resources in print and a lot of folks on this board that can help you with specific information on these engines. However you decide to go, draw up a list of the components you plan to use before you start your purchases. This will reduce the number of parts on the shelf you can't use or didn't need after you're done. I know this to be true, having bought stuff for mine on impulse only to discover later that it wouldn't fit, didn't match, or wasn't necessary.
Good luck and have fun with your project!</snip></snip>
 
Thanks for all your help and advice guys.......

The Rover is out of my car at the momeent - should go back in over the next week or so but this has really got me thinking. There's a 302 Windsor on ebay at the moment and it looks like it will go cheap, so tempted to buy and have the fun of building the engine up myself over time. The crate engines look good also - I was on the Ford website, just not too sure how much one would be to get into the UK - HM Customs and Excise always want a large slice! The advice regarding emissions is also worth thinking about.

Can anyone reccommend some good books that I can buy to do some homework?

Martin, I'll pm you also.
 
I've got the chance of a Mustang engine........engine numbers as follows:

C4 AR-7006-A

W 2 M-2


Can anyone tell me if this is worth going for or what it is?

Cheers,
M.
 
That might be a 5 bolt bell housing block if that C4-- is correct, would mean 1964, might even be 221 or 260. Check number of threaded holes on bell housing face- should be Six of and tapped 7/16 unc plus two 1/2" dowels. If there are only Five x 3/8" & smaller dowels then its an early 5 bolt block.
-- 221 has 3.50" bore/ 260 has 3.68"/ 289 has 4.00". Five bolt 289 has some extra value amongst collectors if its in good condition & has not been bored larger than 0.020"/0.030" Oversize .

You are probably better off with later six bolt block for more choice when buying parts to adapt to trans etc.
 
Thanks guys.

I got some more engine nos fro the seller (see below). I will ask him to count the number of threaded boltholes as suggested.

Can this engine be mounted to my Renault transaxle? ( I know I will need an adaptor plate, but can it be done OK or will I need a new gearbox also?

Additional no's are :

IC40E-6015C
4811 (underneath it)
 

Howard Jones

Supporter
A 300hp 302 is the perfect engine to mate to a Renault gearbox. Very good match for standard size Renault type clutch, Granada flywheel, pilot bearing adapter, unmodified input shaft/internals etc. There are many sources for adapter plates and these other necessary parts in the UK. You might start with the GTD guys over.

I would be looking for a hyd roller cam 302 block and then match the new pistons to the heads you select, taking into account cam choice. A 90s HO 302 would make very close to 300hp with a nice careful rebuild and a 600 holley. Don't forget to balance it to the new flywheel if you use a granada wheel before to run it.

If you can find a running engine that seams OK I would just put it in as you get it. Make it work with all the other stuff like adapter plate and the other parts you will need. Then after you have everything working and the car is ready to run you can go back and rebuild the motor your way. This way you can spend the money you have on the parts to make the car work with the new engine and sorting it out before you spend too much on the motor build itself.
 
Back
Top