302 Engine Casting Numbers

[Ron Earp]

My local DMV called today, after weeks of no contact, and they said they want to come inspect my car tomorrow for the title and so on. I said "eekkk!", not ready and put them off til next week so I can get the paperwork done.

I've been collecting the various numbers off the car and am wondering if my info is correct. I pulled the numbers off the area right above where the started would be on a 302, passenger side for left hand drive cars.

Numbers

A big "2", much bigger than the other numbers

Then in groups:

A2K6
F1SE (might be a "5" but I'm pretty sure from Ford parts it is an S)
B3

The numbers are hard to read as it is clear this block has been around the block a few times.

I don't think I have it right as this doesn't jive with what little I know and have read about Ford part numbers. For example wouldn't that A would mean it was made in the 40s - clearly not!

 

[bob peckham]

Ron, if you where in Ma. they would be looking at the #s at the back of the intake pad area where ford stamped the last 5-8 numbers of the Vin # of the car it came out of , most of the time you can only make out 3-5 of the numbers or letters and then you would need the title or a copy of the title that the motor came from. Hope this helps
Bob

 

[Chuck]

Ron:

I am definitely not an authority on this, but just went through the process several months ago. Had a devil of a time decipering the numbers above the starter until I took a pencil etching of them. Then got out the code book. As best I can tell the F1SE on yours indicates a 1991 Thunderbird.

The "F" indicates 1990 - 1999. The "1" indicates the first year of that decade. And the S is the Car Line (which is Thunderbird). The Fourth digit "E" indicates Engine Group.

The SN for the block is stamped on the top rear of the block directly behind the intake manifold. As Bob pointed out, that can be hard to read.

If your state is like Illinois, they will want two bits of info: date of manufacture and the SN.

Can't help you with the other numbers, although the date code should be followed by "6015" which indicates a cylinder block. Not sure where the A2K6 comes from.

I got to say my analysis could be completely off base. Hopefully a third opinon will chime in.

Chuck

 

[Dave Wood]

That's the casting number, the prefix and suffix. Sometimes the middle code is left out of a mold because all similar parts(blocks,heads etc.) have the same code and is irreleveant for casting info. The S would be a T-bird code although that doesn't mean it came from a 'bird, just that the original casting was for one. Many times a number is used through several lines. The casting number is of course different than the serial #, which is tied into the vin.

 

[Ron Earp]

Thanks for the help!!!

Where are you guys finding S/Ns? That area right behind the intake manifold is flat as a pancake, nothing there.

 

[bob peckham]

Ron , that is where they should be unless someone machined them off, but ford didn't always stamp them very deep i would try a scuff pad in that area or i can send you a picture showing where they are on my 90 5.0 motor regards Bob

 

[Ron Earp]

Hi Bob,

If you have a picture that'd be great. That pad back there is extremely smooth but I will hit it with some light abrasives and see what I can turn up.

Ron

 

[Chuck]

Ron

If you look real close you can see the first digits, the letter "GY7 *****". Thats the number you will need for your registration. It should be an eight digit number. Good luck.

Chuck

 

[Ron Earp]

Thanks much, that is good at least it is where I was thinking you guys were saying. I suspect it has just been painted over well and is extremely smooth. I'll do a bit of scraping and see what appears.

 

[bob peckham]

Ron, that is the same picture but Chuck beat me to it
Bob

 

[Charlie M]

I bought two 5.0L engines, one out of a '90 Mustang and another out of a '96 Explorer. The Mustang engine had the number stamped as Chuck and Bob posted but the Explorer engine had no number.

Charlie

 

[Ron Earp]

I found them, but only six of them. I had to get paint remover and get the paint off the block and after a few minutes of that I could barely make them out. Extremely lightly stamped, unbelievably light actually, and very hard to read. I suspect your block has numbers Charlie but even in bare iron they are almost impossible to make out.

 

[Doug S.]

I bought two 5.0L engines, one out of a '90 Mustang and another out of a '96 Explorer. The Mustang engine had the number stamped as Chuck and Bob posted but the Explorer engine had no number.
Charlie

I wonder.....it occurs to me that if the numbers on the block behind the intake are meant to coincide with a VIN, what would happen if the engine were replaced with a new Ford service engine? Since the engine would not have needed to be factory marked with a specific VIN, could it not be devoid of any numbers such as Charlie's Explorer engine?

Anyone out there using one of FPP's aftermarket blocks? That might tell the story....

Doug

 

[alanrayner]

Hi Guys

I can identify the lightly stamped serial number on my 302 (1980) as described above, but without the full 17 digit VIN, is there any way of finding out more about the original vehicle from the 8 digit number.