Morrison X-Ram Injection

Hello All, I'm looking to buy air filters for my vel-stacks. I found one place in AU that can help, but I would like to buy in the US if possible. I contacted Morrison but got no reply.

Also, I'm looking for ideas on how to synchronize these throttle bodies. I was thinking of using feeler gauges or welding tip cleaners to set the plates working off the # 1 TB as it is the idle return stop. That would give me a base setting.

My feeling is they should be adjusted while running. I purchased a UNI-SYN tool that is held over the stacks and adjust the plates till the float on the tool is the same for each cyl. Problem is, I don't see any clear way to move the shafts while running. One thing I could do is cut a small slot in the tops of the shafts to use a small screwdriver. Kinda cobbie and def a last resort.

There is a good amount of the shaft sticking out the bottom of the TB's but the valve covers must come off to access. A mess in the making! and some burnt fingers to boot!

Lastly, I need to sync the two banks. My thought is to use two dial indicators somewhere on the linkages and adjust till both banks move at the same time.

Any ideas, input or comments are most welcomed!

Patrick
 
Here's a pic
 

Attachments

  • DSC00477.jpg
    DSC00477.jpg
    285.4 KB · Views: 795
Patrick, This guy will custom make screens for any size air horn, and for a reasonable price. He's run them on a dyno and the hp loss is under 10 hp compared to the Weber screens that rob about 40 hp. His name is Bill, Bills B Racing, email is
[email protected] I've done a lot of business with him, he does nice work and ships when he promises. You need to give him the air horn diameter, height of the lip, space between horns, how far the drivers side horn is from the bulkhead and email that picture as well. Sweet looking setup! Hope this helps, Al
 

Attachments

Last edited:
While I've never done a V8 I don't see it as being fundamentally different from the V4 bikes I've balanced many many times.

Anyway, yes you balance while running, ideally with a set of 8 vacuum gauges (!) But it can be done with just two although its more work. Essentially you set the idle very high, probably about 1500rpm and get the vacuum readings to match either side of each linkage. Balance each bank then balance between banks. Give the throttle a big blip after every adjustment to settle things.

You can make a start on balancing by doing it statically, you take two needles, trap them in the throttles either side of each linkage and adjust so that they release at exactly the same time when you open the throttle.
 
I didn't look at the picture previously. Not exactly easy to precisely adjust and almost impossible while running unless as you say you cut a slot in each shaft.

Personally I'd be tempted to remove the linkage "bars" and join each activating 'arm' with some kind of adjuster. At its simplest a few bits of threaded square and some threaded bar. Would need to have both LH and RH threads though which makes it rather a pain.
 
Patrick, When I had a TWM setup on a 427 in my Kirkham, I disconnected the throttle cable, backed off the idle adjustment screws on both sides and checked to see that all the butterflies were seated the same side to side and adjusted the linkage if they were not. Then I opened one side to see if the butterflies were all opening to the same point, then the other side. Then adjusted the idle screw until it just contacts on both sides. Start it up and adjust the idle on both sides to around 900rpm. Check one throttle body on each side with a synchrometer ( Weber Carburetor Synchrometer from AlamoMotorsports.Com ) and adjust both to the same value with the idle screw. Reconnect the throttle cable. Now you want to use the sychrometer to make all of the throttle bodies the same value, the value doesn't matter, just that they are all the same value. The value on the synchrometer needs to be the same T body to T body ans side to side. If you have air adjustment screws on your throttle bodies you can adjust the value with them. If not it is a bit harder, but I can explain how to do it.
 
Patrick,
Congrats on getting Johns car! I wasnt sure if he was ever really going to sell it. It is a nice car, and once you get the little problems worked out you will be very happy. If there is a moto-mechanic nearby I am pretty sure they can balance them for you. My father worked on racing rockets all the time and was very good at balancing those systems. Anyway, good luck and have fun with it, Scott
 

Randy V

Moderator-Admin
Staff member
Admin
Lifetime Supporter
I didn't look at the picture previously. Not exactly easy to precisely adjust and almost impossible while running unless as you say you cut a slot in each shaft.

Personally I'd be tempted to remove the linkage "bars" and join each activating 'arm' with some kind of adjuster. At its simplest a few bits of threaded square and some threaded bar. Would need to have both LH and RH threads though which makes it rather a pain.

X2 on the threaded shafts and rose/heim joints..

And yes, it is a beautiful GT40!
 
Patrick
I have a manifold very similar if not the same and mine is adjustable at the arm clamped to the throttle shaft. So each butterfly can be adjusted individualy. I use a feeler blade so I can get the right feel but you can use a needle as David has sugested
and then balance them while running with a vacuum gauge. If you run them on a dyno you can use a thermocouple in each individual header pipe this gets the tunung spot on, but it means drilling a hole in each pipe. not always ideal I know.
Good luck
Woody
 
Hi Patrick,

Adjustment is simple, run the engine at idle insert a vacuum gauage in each trumpet one at a time, loosen the clamp on the butterfly to adjust, tighten and move to the next, balance one side and then the other. I have the Morrison ITB on my cobra.
I wish I knew how to insert image, will figure that out and post.

Peter
 
Back
Top