Motec maps
- Thread starter Mick
- Start date
Hi Mick,
I'm having the same problems with an Edelbrock Pro Flo2 system, the maps that they advised me to use were not even close. I have spent many hours trying to get it tuned, still not done. I know this is no help to you but sometimes it's nice to know your not the only one going through hell. I hope you can get it set up right.
Steve
I'm having the same problems with an Edelbrock Pro Flo2 system, the maps that they advised me to use were not even close. I have spent many hours trying to get it tuned, still not done. I know this is no help to you but sometimes it's nice to know your not the only one going through hell. I hope you can get it set up right.
Steve
You should be able to use any ignition table for any DFI system, you will just have to enter the numbers into your table manually.
But, be warned, there is many factors in determining what your final ignition timing is going to be and anything anyone gives you runs a high risk of causing detonation. Chances are, the map you get from someone else wont be close to what you need as Steve has found out.
The worst thing you can expect when setting up a new DFI system is that your going to be up and running in no time at all. Patience is a huge virtue with these things.
Mick, having 8 throttle bodies doesn't mean a whole lot to the ignition table. How much compression, octane and cam sepecs are going to be much greater factors. Obviously, if I gave you an ignition table for a low compression engine, its probably going to blow up your engine.
I dont know the motec interface, but cold start is pretty easy to figure out yourself. I can give you some pointers if you like.
But, be warned, there is many factors in determining what your final ignition timing is going to be and anything anyone gives you runs a high risk of causing detonation. Chances are, the map you get from someone else wont be close to what you need as Steve has found out.
The worst thing you can expect when setting up a new DFI system is that your going to be up and running in no time at all. Patience is a huge virtue with these things.
Mick, having 8 throttle bodies doesn't mean a whole lot to the ignition table. How much compression, octane and cam sepecs are going to be much greater factors. Obviously, if I gave you an ignition table for a low compression engine, its probably going to blow up your engine.
I dont know the motec interface, but cold start is pretty easy to figure out yourself. I can give you some pointers if you like.
I didn't respond to this as I have a 347 map from RF and not knowing anything but you have a 302. Mine is setup for magnetic Crank and Sync sensors ( you may have Hall effect or use a distributor for triggering ) As such what I and probably most others could cause damage ( if they were to start at all ) if you were to use a non compatible program to the engine you have. Here in the States trying to find anyone familiar with a Motec has been a challenge, Whereas you are in the home of Motec I would find a Dyno Shop that knows these well and have them set it up. That way it should be safe to enjoy once they are done. Thanks Paul I didn't think of that part of this I'm running an M800 and this may be a M48 or ???? Wally
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Paul Thompson 'Hooligan'
Admin
I can forward a map from a Motec M48 Pro for 302/347 running Kinsler 8 stack with no idle control valve if that helps.. Running 8 coils / sequential injection.
Forward your email and i'll dig it out and return.
Any help would be appreciated john, should be more specific have spent some time using and tuning the motec so i am familiar but a long way from an expert anyway having just rebuilt the engine it was running ok previously but wasn't perfect timing chain wasn't the right size throttle body linkage needed sorting etc. cam is the same compression is slightly higher about 9.5.1. What I was hoping for was a jpg of someone's fuel & ignition map for 302 to compare the extreme ends. I understand what not to do but in the 6 years of being on the forum I have yet to see any one that has been successful or been entirely happy with a dyno tune using a generic ecu on a 302 if there is someone that has done it I would love to here from them.
That would be fantastic Paul and much appreciated.
Paul Thompson 'Hooligan'
Admin
Hi Mick, only just got up so will dig out the relevant laptop and hook out a file to email you.
The throttle bodies are 2.25" or 58mm. Bit big but worked well on the Fontana Clevor that was in Roy Smart's GTD40. Was most recently running 10.8:1 compression and quite punchy. I pulled 183mph on just over a mile with it with more to come a couple of years back.
I should say that the car is only really used on a track and so i'm not sure what the manners would be like for driving in traffic but after two presses of the throttle to wet the manifold, it would happily start from cold without touching the throttle again and idle with no idle valve. Once warm, just a press of the start button was all that was required. Throttle blade setup / balance was fairly critical to achieve this. It has a very lightweight flywheel and small triple plate clutch so idle needed to be about 900-1000rpm as a min or it would tend to stall on vacuum after blipping the throttle.
Anyway, once i've woken up i'll get that file over to you later today.
Ps on another note, it has an MSD flying magnet for crank ref and DIY homemade hall effect pickup on a cutoff distributor for cam sync.
Mag pickups will occasionally give trig errors (to little or no apparent detrement) and i've done twin hall-effect setups where you get zero trig errors at all.
FINALLY - and as others have said, the map i'll send is for viewing fuel table, i do not recommend you try running it as your system may well be configured differently and things like timing etc require correct setting of ECU crip etc. A good dyno / rolling rod should really be able to get your map spot on.
The throttle bodies are 2.25" or 58mm. Bit big but worked well on the Fontana Clevor that was in Roy Smart's GTD40. Was most recently running 10.8:1 compression and quite punchy. I pulled 183mph on just over a mile with it with more to come a couple of years back.
I should say that the car is only really used on a track and so i'm not sure what the manners would be like for driving in traffic but after two presses of the throttle to wet the manifold, it would happily start from cold without touching the throttle again and idle with no idle valve. Once warm, just a press of the start button was all that was required. Throttle blade setup / balance was fairly critical to achieve this. It has a very lightweight flywheel and small triple plate clutch so idle needed to be about 900-1000rpm as a min or it would tend to stall on vacuum after blipping the throttle.
Anyway, once i've woken up i'll get that file over to you later today.
Ps on another note, it has an MSD flying magnet for crank ref and DIY homemade hall effect pickup on a cutoff distributor for cam sync.
Mag pickups will occasionally give trig errors (to little or no apparent detrement) and i've done twin hall-effect setups where you get zero trig errors at all.
FINALLY - and as others have said, the map i'll send is for viewing fuel table, i do not recommend you try running it as your system may well be configured differently and things like timing etc require correct setting of ECU crip etc. A good dyno / rolling rod should really be able to get your map spot on.
Thanks Paul, have had it the dyno prior to the engine rebuild (blew a head gasket) so the crip was reset on the new motor kep the same mapping but needs finessing. There are a numeber of settings I would like to compare but I doubt your settings will work on my motor specifically fuel some big differences there. It would be interesting to compare timing though. I have the same issue with vacuum caused by the cam, power on mine comes at quite high rpm so no vac at low rpm.
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