Header Wrapping

I know it's on here somewhere, but am unable to find the specifics...

I want to wrap the headers on my F3000, and am after advice on the most effective wrap / shielding available. I see this as a two part solution - wrap headers, apply heat reflective material to the inner face of the bodywork.

Individual wrapping best?

Suggestions?
 

Attachments

  • 20140921_115448 (1024x576).jpg
    20140921_115448 (1024x576).jpg
    326.7 KB · Views: 316
  • 20140921_115613 (576x1024).jpg
    20140921_115613 (576x1024).jpg
    373.3 KB · Views: 302
While the exhaust blankets look like they'd be the most effective, I'm just not sure I have the room under the bodywork for them. I'm thinking the Ti stuff will probably work best for me, and probably with some adhesive sheet on the underside of the side pod panels. What is in favour with GT40 builds in this department?

The white coating is actually a ceramic coating, but it is only external. I'm looking to get the under-lid temps as low as possible through wraps and shields at this point.

I seem to remember the rule of thumb was around 80" of wrap used per foot of pipe (plus additional wrap for bends)? Sound about right?

Not running at PI Jim, as mine is a carbon car, it's deemed too modern to run historics. It would be nice though, to take it to the Island for a track day :)
 
Header wrap is just fine on a car that uses cheap junk headers that you will throw away at the end of the season (or halfway through the season). It does its job well, reducing underhood temps, but is very destructive to the headers themselves. It is especially poorly suited to a street car that will be driven in moisture.

For sure, Jet-Hot or some similar inside-and-out exhaust coating is the superior solution. Much more expensive up-front cost but your headers are then virtually immortal, and you get the heat shield benefits forever.

If your car uses $100 headers and you don't mind replacing them the way you would brake pads, tires etc., then header wrap is a practical solution.
 
I have had some on my 1935 Husdon straight eight engined Brough's stainless downpipes for around 15 years with no obvious problems.

I think I read somewhere it is ok on stainless. Not sure how effective it is as Brough's are notorious for under bonnet heat generation and the subsequent fuel vaporisation and mine seems particularly prone to this.
 
Interesting to read this. I don't like the fibreglass based wraps as they need to be wet-out before application. I'm wondering if the problems begin in the tubes themselves, or the welds?

I might take my chances with the titanium coated wrap. If they fall apart, it'll just give me a proper excuse to slot a real engine in there!

Still interested in finding out what the best options for the self-adhesive shielding many '40 owners use on the underside of their rear clips.
 
I got a large roll of self adhesive from RF with my red rocket. I have not tried it but can give you the part number or just call up Paul and get a roll.

I'm building headers for the green car this weekend.
 
Back
Top