Starter motor advice

[Ian Bissett]

I managed 500 miles since getting the car on the road, and the starter motor seems to have packed in. Over the last three weeks, it has been harder and harder to start the car, and yesterday I got stuck miles away from home and had to call out a recovery vehicle to get me back home! I have a Ford 302 block (347 around 440bhp) running a UN1 box and the flywheel is a standard 157 tooth. I haven't yet taken the old one out so can't confirm the OEM. Two questions,
1. is it common that the SMs fail on these cars after so little driving (as an aside, I believe I also have a problem with the battery earth cable, it may have partially sheared inside which could be due to vibration as the cable routing is tight, and this may have overheated the SM solenoid?)
2. Anyone recommend a really good replacement SM that will fit may car?
Thanks in advance
Ian

 

[Randy V]

Ian - a picture of your current starter would be of some help.
If it is a standard configuration starter as available on 302 Mustangs, you may want to look into the smaller - yet stronger - PMGR starters as available from both Ford and the aftermarket.
PMGR decodes to Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction.

Here is just one example...
http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-1095-...0jbdvLSQmqmPaJCtoekjR5M8_nL-IC6YfihoCrQLw_wcB

 

[Ian Bissett]

I removed the starter motor this weekend. Its a Powermaster Powermax, see attached photos). Not sure which type as the serial number on the side has deterioted and is unreadable. I am assuming its a 3/4" offset as the distance between the engine side of the flywheel and the face of the mounting is 5/8", and the flywheel has 157 teeth.

I also found the cause of the problem. Last year I fitted a battery isolator on the earth side of the battery! Unknown to me the connection was worsening causing higher load on the solenoid which I assume was the reason for the starter motor failing as it was taking longer and longer to crank the engine resulting in the solenoid failing (a £6 part has cost me a shed load in transport when it broke down and a further cost of a new SM!!). I've learned my lesson here.

Anyway, should I go with the same starter or is there a better alternative, and should I go with higher cranking torque? than the Powermaster (I think its around 160 ft lb torque)

Thanks
Ian

 

[Randy V]

Powermaster is a recognized seller of proper equipment - I would not be afraid of purchasing from them.
I am suprised at the "Recommended EFI Only" on the decal.. Never have seen that before...

Glad that you've found the issue. I have to say that I've never installed an isolator on a battery ground before.

Edit - By the way, that Powermaster is a PMGR starter as referred to earlier..

 

[Rick Merz]

That starter is recommended for motors with 10:1 (max) compression and EFI. Your starter motor is lighter duty than other models offered by Powermaster. Ensure that your power cable and ground are in good condition and sized correctly as this can affect starter motor performance. FYI 10 ohms of resistance between the battery terminals and the cable connection and you may not be able to start your GT40 (or any other car).

 

[Jason Lycett]

Hi ian

Not sure if you have resolved this yet. i just took delivery of a new GT40 SM for UN1/essex flywheel applications from WOS performance. They tried a custom 2KW geared motor for me, in place of the normal 1KW. The results are phenomenal!, i swear i nearly get valve bounce! i have a 10:1 compression 302 . Superb service too.

 

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

I am suprised at the "Recommended EFI Only" on the decal.. Never have seen that before...

The "EFI only" is on units that are not expected to crank "long". The assumption is carb'ed engines must crank longer to fire. If you look at the Powermaster chart they clearly indicate the torque and induction type recommended for each starter.

The Powermaster supplied by Roush in my GT only made it 4000 miles before it quit. Frankly I have had excellent results from the units sold by DB electrical for a much lower price point.

 

[Randy V]

Interesting Rick... I would think that if the starter is so weak that it would not crank a carb'd engine over properly, I would not buy it... EFI engines flood easily if you manage to touch the throttle while cranking.

 

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

EFI engines flood easily if you manage to touch the throttle while cranking.

Many drive by wire EFI systems will not flood as they will not respond to pedal inputs during crank cycle and will not change fuel flow until engine has started.

 

[Dimi Terleckyj]

Hi
If you want trouble free starting get one of the clockable reduction geared starter motors and all your troubles will just be memories.

Dimi