Replacing Intake Manifold Gasket

I am currently replacing the intake manifold gasket on my Ford 302 engine.

The intake manifold is Edelbrook Performer RPM Series (BY7121) and the heads are Ford Racing Alloy Cylinder Heads M6049-J302.

As recommended by a well known component supplier here in the UK I am using GRAPHITE Intake Gasket Part No M-9439-G50. The ports line up well.

I am getting conflicting stories as to how these particular gaskets should be fitted. Some accounts say there is a need only to apply gasket sealer/contact cement (e.g. Gasgacynch) in the water port areas ( there is slight pitting ) but no need to apply a thin layer of silicone around the water openings. Is that correct?

Do GRAPHITE gaskets work in a different way ?

If someone has fitted these GRAPHITE gaskets what is the correct proceedure please.

Your advice/help would be appreciated.
 

Randy V

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I use a thin film of Permatex's "The Right Stuff" around the water ports (both sides of the gasket) and a bead on each end-rail of the block. TRS is so much better than any other RTV for these purposes..

The SBF intake is a great one to align properly if you take 4 - 4" bolts, cut the heads off and then cut a screwdriver slot in the end. These should be 5/16" NC bolts. You put one bolt in each corner of the cylinder heads (IE - one bolt on each end of the cylinder heads) - then lower the intake manifold over those alignment guide bolts. Once you have a couple of other bolts in place and just slightly snugged up, you can remove the alignment dowels for use the next time or to just toss in the tool box...
The reason I stress alignment is that many intake gaskets have slipped or been squeezed out of position by poor alignment. This will result in vacuum and water leaks..
Good luck!
 

Howard Jones

Supporter
Make sure you have complete intake manifold thread engagement into the heads. These Ford heads have minimum thread depth to start with. At least a few threads all the way through the head and into the lifter area. It is EASY to pull the threads out of these alum heads with just a few threads engaged (short bolt). I did mine with studs in the heads. Then a nice thick steel washer on top of the intake with a bolt.

This way you can just drop the gaskets onto the studs and slid the intake on over them.

I agree with the RTV end seal method with just a little around the water crossovers at the rear. Torque in correct sequence. All around to 1/2 spec then the other half. I use 22 ft/lbs. first 12 then 10 more. The range of everybody else online seams to be from 18-27 or so.

Here's the install PDF from edelbrock

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/misc/tech-center/install/7000/7121.pdf
 

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