Hi all. Asking for recommendations for the accessory area near the firewall to allow for adequate room and accessibility. I have SPF MK I, no AC and building 302 SBF. Am looking at Aviaid dry sump 3 pick up with 4 stage pump on left, just below the inlet of a low profile Ford comp, water pump/front cover. I've searched the forums and have seen the sump pump on both sides and have witnessed some complex serpentine solutions so I'd appreciate suggestions on what you like, to get me started here. I'm leaning toward off the shelf items vs exotic solutions to allow for quick repair/replacement in a racing environment. Thanks.
Engine to firewall clearance.
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If I were building mine for competition ---
Consider running a remote electric water pump - this will free up a lot of room up front.
Also a DIS system would remove the distributor from the equation and free up even more room.
Dry sumps are nice but very expensive when it comes to finding the space to fit it all... Are you certain that you will honestly need a dry sump oiling system?
Consider running a remote electric water pump - this will free up a lot of room up front.
Also a DIS system would remove the distributor from the equation and free up even more room.
Dry sumps are nice but very expensive when it comes to finding the space to fit it all... Are you certain that you will honestly need a dry sump oiling system?
Have you looked into the Dailey design or others that work on the same principle, where the pump bolts to the pan and reduces the number of external fittings / hoses to three... one large scavenge to tank, one from tank to pressure pump inlet and then pressure from pump to filter block and thereon to cooler/motor.
The pic on Dailey website shows an un-necessary long drive snout on the pump, was just looking at dwgs I had for our TVR- WP/pulley and pump drive is a total of 2.75" in front of damper.
The pic on Dailey website shows an un-necessary long drive snout on the pump, was just looking at dwgs I had for our TVR- WP/pulley and pump drive is a total of 2.75" in front of damper.
I was looking at their site and noticed that long shaft. Called them and they said that they could make it as long or short as I wanted. I agree, their system is slick but I have reservations on using their integral aluminum pan/pump setup. Expense is one but more importantly is my preference for modular items that I can R and R or repair on my own using iron tig welding. I don't weld aluminum well. I'm leaning toward a complete Aviaid setup as they were very amenable on the phone plus they have done GT40s before. The Daley guy seemed distant and unenthuised while the Aviad guy seemed very "Can Do."
I've scoured his photos and like what I see. It is, however more complex than I need as he is running AC and a crank fired ignition that bypasses the distributer. I am looking for a more traditional arrangement. I suppose I should be asking a simpler question like "Hey guys, which side do you prefer mounting your dry sump pump, right or left and why?"
Good suggestions. I'd never heard of a remote electric water pump. I'd like to retain the distributor but highly agree with your suggestion on DIS. Olthoff asked me if I was going to be pulling many Gs when we conversed about the need for a dry sump. I internally chuckled a bit. We both decided that a dry sump was the way to go for me. My engine builder agreed. Also, this site is loaded with horror stories of those that have blown their engines due to oiling problems. I don't want to join them. My CP Datsun 240Z has had one oil related failure even while using a Nissan Comp wet sump pan. We have it down to a science/art now but I don't want to climb that sort of learning curve on a SBF race engine.
Larry,
This is how the front can look qwith the water pump removed. Granted this is a 351, but you can see how this affects the engine. I removed the water pump and ground the bolt surface off of the timing chain cover. The only thing missing in this photo is the pulley. You can use hard tubing or soft tubing(AN lines) to get the water tubes up to the engine. My pulley from CVF Racing is a mere 3/4" from the bulkhead.
If you like the electonics for accuracy in tuning the spark, you can use it with a distributor. MSD has a setup that allows you to use the 6A, AL or what ever box you fancy. All but the 6A come with rev limiters. The distributor is locked out(no advance) and the electronics will control the timing and advance curve. I am using the FAST XFI and it has many features you may be interested in(or not), like traction control etc.
I started out with DIS but eventually gave up on it when problems set in that couldn't be tracked down.. You have to keep the crank trigger for the electronics, but that is a good thing. Once the system is set it is nearly a set it and forget it setup like your everyday modern car. The only quirk is that the distributor has to be "phased in" Set so the spark doesnot bleed over to the adjacent plug lead in the distributor when the timing is advanced.
The water pump I use is the Moroso unit seen here.
It pumps about 35 Gpm which without a thermostat keeps the engine at 150-170 in traffic. A bypass thermostat can be arranged if desired. They also have electric pumps that mount on the front of the engine also, but then you might have to add a bump on the firewall.
Bill
This is how the front can look qwith the water pump removed. Granted this is a 351, but you can see how this affects the engine. I removed the water pump and ground the bolt surface off of the timing chain cover. The only thing missing in this photo is the pulley. You can use hard tubing or soft tubing(AN lines) to get the water tubes up to the engine. My pulley from CVF Racing is a mere 3/4" from the bulkhead.
If you like the electonics for accuracy in tuning the spark, you can use it with a distributor. MSD has a setup that allows you to use the 6A, AL or what ever box you fancy. All but the 6A come with rev limiters. The distributor is locked out(no advance) and the electronics will control the timing and advance curve. I am using the FAST XFI and it has many features you may be interested in(or not), like traction control etc.
I started out with DIS but eventually gave up on it when problems set in that couldn't be tracked down.. You have to keep the crank trigger for the electronics, but that is a good thing. Once the system is set it is nearly a set it and forget it setup like your everyday modern car. The only quirk is that the distributor has to be "phased in" Set so the spark doesnot bleed over to the adjacent plug lead in the distributor when the timing is advanced.
The water pump I use is the Moroso unit seen here.
It pumps about 35 Gpm which without a thermostat keeps the engine at 150-170 in traffic. A bypass thermostat can be arranged if desired. They also have electric pumps that mount on the front of the engine also, but then you might have to add a bump on the firewall.
Bill
