Windshields

Guys,

Was looking through the saved stuff and realized that I had lost a reference to an american supplier of windshields ... maybe some place in Tennessee.

Anyone have that reference and might send it along?

Am not going to need to acquire one this year but it will become a concern. Have to be more careful with important references!

Mike - John Hester is trying to source these as we speak. John D. was supposed to be ordering them, but apparently he cannot contackt the broker he had worked with in the past. John H. has located an office of the company that supposedly actually manufactures the things that is nearby to his location. Lets keep our fingers crossed because I needed mine a month ago, as well as the Lexan. His other option is to get some kind of pattern and have another company make them (he had identified this other company.)

Lynn,

Mark Clapp has the front light covers in acrylic ... they are $100 per set plus shipping. He indicates that the rear window can be fabricated from sheet.

Hw is working on the side windows. Might eventually be a source.

He has a very nice attaching method for the plastic covers. Apparently involves the use of helicoils rather than nutsets or rivnuts. Am waiting so see what his instruction documentation says.

Catch a note from Hester last night?

[John Schneider]

I just recieved a set of covers from Mark. Very nice and a pleasure to work with. A little grinding down to fit, a few screws and away I go. They even come with a little how to sheet. Thanks again Mark. The helicoils are a great touch, thanks for the source.
John [img]images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

I may look into the helicoils, but at this point I still plan to use the rubber well nuts. I have used these to attach a couple of other items: map light, side mirrors, loom clips, as well as, the license plate light and frame. I think they have a couple of advantages, especially with Lexan. They are self sealing for moisture control, they present a soft, well dispersed contact patch with the lexan to avoid "crazing" and they should not cause chaffing or cracking of the fibreglass into which they are set. They also provide a very firm attach point while also providing shock absorbtion. I don't think the hole required will be any larger than the helicoil either. Either method will provide acceptable results, I am sure. I would imagine that the helicoils are going in with a dab of epoxy or some other resin to avoid loosening as is suggested with Riv-Nuts and/or Nut-serts.

I have even had a method described to me that GTD uses for using sheet glass in the rear window (not the bulkhead where flat glass can easily be used) using the heat of the engine over time to induce curvature into it. Not so sure that is the route I want to go though. I have to call John D. and find out what his intentions are I guess.

[Mark Clapp]

John, glad you like the covers and Mike, yours will be shipping out pronto. The helicoils have really worked well. They install easily to just below the body surface and are thus invisible. I used no thread lock and have had none move even after removing the screws many times. I was afraid of using fasteners that put any stress on the body which could eventually crack the paint if anything. The engine cover plexi needs no shaping as it takes the curve of the body once installed.

[jtcompton2]

Lynn-While this is a bit late, I used rubber well nuts on my car for all the plastic covers, and they have worked extremely well. No cracks, no screws coming lose, just a simple, effective way to attach the covers.
Jack

Jack, Thank you very much for the confirmation. I was beginning to worry that there was something I was overlooking. They have worked well where I have used them so far, but nobody seemed to have anything positive to say (nor negative actually).

I have nylon washers to go between the lexan and the finish washers on the outside. I really wanted to use O rings, but couldn't find any with a small enough opening and a large enough cross section to fill the #6 SS finish washers and keep them from actually contacting the Lexan. What did you use?

-- Lynn

[Julian West]

The rubber nuts you chaps refer to, are these the top-hat shaped rubber plugs with a steel threaded insert?

If so, when you insert the bolt, be sure to put a drop of oil or grease on the threads & preferably use stainless bolts. My Lotus uses rubber nuts for various panels & after just a few weeks the steel screws seize in the insert & make them V difficult to get out!

Julian, yes they do look like and inverted top hat with brass nuts imbedded in them. I am using SS in all of them, but you are saying that plain steel will seize up in the ones that have steel rather than brass nuts? Thanks for the heads up on that, but I have not seen any with steel nuts in them SO FAR! And, I am glad to hear that Jack and I aren't the only ones using them! Hey, if Lola uses them, they are good enough for me!

[Fred/Belgium]

Mark,

Just to confirm aswel that Marks stuff is excellent as I put them on my car and it was easy and fits perfectly.Good luck.
Fred

[Peter D]

Just a couple of quick questions on the HeliCoil fixing method for lexan/perspex :

- Is it best to use countersunk head bolts through the perspex, or bolts with a flat underside to the head (with a washer - nylon, S/S ? ) ?

I have heard of both approaches being used, but am a bit concerned that the countersunk head bolts may tend to split the perspex.

- Any recommendations on what type of gasket material (if any) I should use between the perspex & the f/glass ? I want to make all perspex panels easily removeable (hence the HeliCoils), so I don't want to use an adhesive (but waterproof joints would be nice !).

Thanks Guys,

Peter D. [img]images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

[Julian West]

Lynn,

OK they are the same fixing.. the probelm comes whenyou use a steel screw.. It quickly seizes in the brass insert & the onll way I've found to get them out is with a grinder (Ouch!!)

If you're using stainless I guess this won't be a problem...

[Mark Clapp]

I used the counter sunk SS screws and have had no cracking. The screws should just hold the plexi and not push down. The countersinking of course gives a flush fit on top. For gasket material, 3M has closed-cell tape that comes in 1/8" and 1/16" thickness, and 3/8" and 1/2" width. It should give a nice seal. Peter, email me if you have additional questions on sourcing or installing the helicoils.

Also understand there are special drill bits that need to be used with Plexi. Is this true?? What are the called and/or who is a good source??

Thanks!