Window and light cover attachment
- Thread starter Bill D
- Start date
Bill
I've seen pan head screws and countersunk screws, used with and without rivnuts/threaded inserts. Depends how often you plan to remove
them. The windows shouldn't be off very often...but the covers probably would since you must remove to clean
inside or maybe change a bulb.
IMHO, countersinking is pretty...but not original, and more likely to crack the lens/lexan.
Regards
MikeD
I've seen pan head screws and countersunk screws, used with and without rivnuts/threaded inserts. Depends how often you plan to remove
them. The windows shouldn't be off very often...but the covers probably would since you must remove to clean
inside or maybe change a bulb.
IMHO, countersinking is pretty...but not original, and more likely to crack the lens/lexan.
Regards
MikeD
Bill, I sent you a PM about mounting the covers. I chose #6 screws as I think #8s are too big going by pics of original GTs.
Ron McCall
Supporter
I mounted mine the same way the Safir car I inspected was mounted.With 10-32 nylon screws.
The windows on the Safir car were also sealed in with RTV.
I found black nylonscrews from McMaster Carr.
The windows on the Safir car were also sealed in with RTV.
I found black nylonscrews from McMaster Carr.
I'm too late to provide info for Bill, but I recommend for future builders to use #8-3/4" long stainless-steel sheet-metal screws with #2 Philips drive truss-heads threaded into the fiberglass body. Use truss-head rather than pan-head or oval-head screws. The truss-head has a larger diameter, which provides additional bearing surface on the plastic. What Ron says about nutserts is good. You'll then have to go to machine screws when using them. As for Shelby events, I noticed that an original GT40 ran the SAAC 31 at VIR without side glass required or not. Safety is one reason, but ventilation in another, particularly when running without air-conditioning.
Grainger has made it a whole lot easier for builders. They now have about every fastener you'll ever need. Beats going to your local hardware, Lowes or Home Depot just to find out they don't have quite what you need. Plus, the cost for a box of 100 screws is about 50% more than a package of 10 from a retail outlet.
Grainger has made it a whole lot easier for builders. They now have about every fastener you'll ever need. Beats going to your local hardware, Lowes or Home Depot just to find out they don't have quite what you need. Plus, the cost for a box of 100 screws is about 50% more than a package of 10 from a retail outlet.
Lynn Larsen
Lynn Larsen
I guess I am the only one who has used #6 rubber well nuts with #6 SS machine screws, but I love them and I'll never worry about the composite flacking or cracking or nutserts coming loose as a result or pulling out on their own. The only caveat is that you have to use SS since the nuts in the well nuts are brass.
BTW, if you are worried about the thickness of the flange or the height of the well nuts, a few seconds on the grinder wheel can re-configure them to your liking.
Lynn
BTW, if you are worried about the thickness of the flange or the height of the well nuts, a few seconds on the grinder wheel can re-configure them to your liking.
Lynn
Lynn: You took the words out of my mouth. Wellnuts don't pull down hard as do nutserts, which will shatter fiberglass. Nutserts are fine when using with sheet metal, but not f/glass. Also, Wellnuts have an insulating quality, i.e., damp vibrations. If you really want a window that will come out quickly, consider installing about five tabs to mount Dzus fasteners. Although not original, this would make it a whole lot easier than storing a bunch of screws while the windows are out.
I like the idea of the well nuts. I may get some 1/4 20 well nuts for attaching things like the fuel pumps to help in noise isolation and some small ones for attaching the lexan. I had bought a bunch of rivit nuts but I think I will set them aside for some other project.
The link did not work. Go to McMaster-Carr and type "wellnut" in the search window.
Jonathan....Tx for direction to Mc Masters...I have seen these B4 but, didn't associate w/ "well nut"....Lynn...doesn't the rubber outer lip cause the window to not seal? If the rubber collar is trimmed off to allow the window to seal against the door frame the rubber sleeve won't compress as the screw is tightened...right??Am I missing something?? Tx Steve
I was going to use rivet nuts which would have caused the same issue with the window not sealing. I think I will use some form of weather strip between each well nut.
I'm using 8-32 nutserts that have a tiny lip to keep it in. I tried the insert tool, but it casues the fiberglass to crack. And the recessed lip for the plexiglass to sit in posed another problem. So I JB welded them in. But to address the small raised area that makes sealing out the elements problematic, I'm adding 1/8" thick by 3/8" wide adhesive-backed weather sripping to the window edge. McMaster-Carr has a wide assortment. I can get the part number of the type I'm using for anyone interested.
Cheers
Bill D
Cheers
Bill D
Another way to eliminate the well-nut or nut-sert lip and to get a below surface fit is to install heli-coils. You simply drill and tap the body with the tools in the installation kit and thread the coils into the body for permanent threads that never move. They are stainless steel and allow easy removal of the plastic pieces over and over again. Again, McMaster Carr has the installation kits that includes a fantatsic drill bit, the coil thread-in tool, and extra coils for a reasonable price. No cracking of the body or paint.
That's what I did, Heli-coils in the body with black plastic screws to hold the lexan down. Probably belts and suspenders, but to retain the coils I put a dab of slow set instant glue into the hole before threading in the insert. Takes a few to get the technique down, but when you establish a process it's slick. I also used them for the sides and rear window. I ended up with 116 coils in the body overall.
Brian
Brian
Lynn Larsen
Lynn Larsen
Steve,
Yes the well nuts will compress. All you have to do is press down a bit on the lexan, which prevents the well nuts from coming up. After just a couple of turns of the screw, the well nuts grab and you're in business. There are several places that don't allow the full depth of the well nut around the side windows and light covers, but I had no problem with cut off well nuts or ones that I made the flange paper thin on my grinder. Around the rear window, where I had plenty of fiberglass thickness, I used a drimmel stone cut down to the same diameter as the well nut's flange to countersink the shoulder flange. The only issue I found with the thinned flange was that you had to be somewhat careful when inserting them and when starting the screw as they would push through easily if there was a void behind them.
Lynn
Yes the well nuts will compress. All you have to do is press down a bit on the lexan, which prevents the well nuts from coming up. After just a couple of turns of the screw, the well nuts grab and you're in business. There are several places that don't allow the full depth of the well nut around the side windows and light covers, but I had no problem with cut off well nuts or ones that I made the flange paper thin on my grinder. Around the rear window, where I had plenty of fiberglass thickness, I used a drimmel stone cut down to the same diameter as the well nut's flange to countersink the shoulder flange. The only issue I found with the thinned flange was that you had to be somewhat careful when inserting them and when starting the screw as they would push through easily if there was a void behind them.
Lynn
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