Clip Latches

[Lance]

I'll be installing three clip latches on my car. Two for the rear clip, as in the attached image and incorporating work lights, and one for the front clip.

I'm hunting around for suitable latches now but, to save some time, could other forum members advise me on what latches / source cars they have already used for this purpose? The Australian Commodore apparently has them I've been told.

Any information that will save me running around time would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

Lance

 

[Bill Musarra]

Lance,
You will find several methods to secure your rear hatch. Some are inovative in that they are setup so you can't forget to actually "latch the hatch" so to speak, to prevent opening at speed. I didn't like the setup you show, even though it is close to if not exactly as the originals. It however requires cables, pull handles and mounting pieces to the rear hatch that require some hard to align setups. I went with the Aerocatch system. It can be viewed here.

Bonnet Pin - Bonnet Latch - Hood Latches - AeroCatch

This system can be setup rather easily, but requires some body cutting to place. It is a very good system in that you would be hard pressed to miss the yp position on the locking clip. Even if you did close the locking clip and didn't lock it, it would still hold the clip closed.
It comes in either locking or non locking. I chose the locking to keep the curious from trying to sneak a peak, as happened to one forum member.

You can also set it up as a side catch system as well which could replace the side latches if you so chose.

Bill

 

[Dutton]

Lance,

When finished, my car will have a version of the simple yet clever secondary rear body lock which Cary Gressinger, the North America DRB representative, installed onto his demo 40. I had the good fortune to see the 40 on it's first day out following completion of the build. This DRB is GORGEOUS - Cary does some damn fine detail work, too.

Basically, Cary secured the rear body to the engine bulkhead by installing a pin (1/4 inch diameter x ~10 inches long) from the area above the fuel tanks through the bulkhead and well into the rear body. Onto one end of each pin is a small knob to ease the removal/installation, and metal guide plates were drilled for the pin and securely installed where ever the pin passed through fiberglass. As a plus, both doors when closed secured the pin from sliding out of the bodywork under hard braking.

Kudos to Cary for this simple yet elegant solution. Perhaps he'd share a few pics of this great design with the rest of the group.

As for the front clip, I'm stuck for offering a suggestion. Whatever your finalized plan shapes up to be, I hope you'll share your solution with the rest of us!

Best,

T.

 

[Lee]

T.
I'm sure Cary won't mind me sharing the idea with. It is a standard piece of DRB kit - very elegant and simple.

 

[Lance]

Thanks for the ideas chaps. As it turns out, I've decided to go with the latch arrangement as shown in the posted image. I've hunted around and have managed to find a set of latches that suit my needs. They're off an Honda Legend of around mid 90's vintage. They're fairly small and, for some unknown reason, the Legend uses two to latch the bonnet. This means the spring pressure to latch should be correct.

Regards,

Lance

 

[Dave]

Hey Bill
Where did you get your latches from??
I'm keen for a set.

Lance you could go and have a look at Richard Martin Beecks set up, he lives in Perth and is very friendly. He is using bonnet hooks from early commodores I think.

 

[Lance]

I've have seen Richard's set up Dave. It's funny how hard some things are to find. After talking to him, I was looking for early Commodore latches, but do you think I could find them? I thought there'd be thousands around, but they were all the wrong type or just not available. Amazing! Anyway the Legend latches will do the job beautifully.

I'm going with latches, because I want anyone that looks under the clips to have to open (or break into) the cockpit, rather than be able to access from the outside only.

Lance

 

[Bill Musarra]

Dave,
They have a nice video of how the system works. You can click on the link in my post and then go to the contacts. But for you here it is:

Graham Leo
AeroCatch Ltd.
Unit D. Seymour Wharf
Steamer Quay Road
Totnes
Devon. TQ9 5AL

Direct dial: 01803 861714
E-mail: [email protected]



Graham will get you set up right away. The latches arrived rather quickly. Since I have some paint issues that have to be resolved and some new work as well, I will have them installed at that time. I am building supports that wrap around my cage supports as they enter the cockpit for the pins to rest on.



Bill

 

[Dave]

Thanks Bill
Got some ordered and on there way, will post pics in builders thread when they arrive and are fitted.

 

[Randy V]

Can anyone post installed pics of the Aerocatch latch system on a GT40?

I'm thinking about using them but am wondering what sort of work I'm letting myself in for...

Thanks guys!

 

[Bill Musarra]

Randy,
There is a thread with pics of one of the 40s that has installed the Aerocatch system. Continue the searches to find it. They install like some of the pin latch systems on the originals. In fact is is the same except for the height of the pins. You might have a little trouble with the alignment if you can't visualize where the pins will come through the rear clip. My car came with the pins through the clip. I filled them in during the paint process. When I decided on the Aerocach, I just re drilled them. I am building the supports for the pins. If you decide on using them, I think the best approach is to decide where the pins should be located. It is a leap of faith, but drill your holes where you think it will fit best. I would give you the spot on mine, but the car is at the ignition shop that is 25 miles away. The real technical part will be establishing the right angle for the plate that holds the pins, and the proper distance from the firewall. That is where the visualization comes in. If your rear cabin glass is out you can see a lot better, and can tape it to the approximate location. If you have the roll cage installed, try to get it lined up over the bar. If the angle is a little off, a little bending of the support may be necessary or washers ground off from flat to angled may help. Be sure the pin and the mounting plate are secured to each other as you tape in place. It eill give you the angle. then you just have to decide how wide that mounting piece should be for the placement of the legs. Hope this helps some. If you need any other advice PM me and we can get intouch over the phone. Hard to describe these things in print.

Bill

 

[Bill Musarra]

http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-cars-sale/22363-gtd40-sale-cheshire-uk.html
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/race-track/25175-well-i-wasn-t-going-tell-anyone-3.html
Randy,
Here are the post that will help you out. Contact these two guys. They should have the hands on you need.

Bill

 

[Randy V]

Thanks Bill... I've got pretty good access to the whole under-clip area since there's no engine/trans in the car right now - also the rear bulkhead glass is not installed..

I'll check with the other fellows to see if I can get some detailed pics on their installations. I want the safety of a multiple latch system but didn't like the idea of regular hood pins for this particular car. I'm also thinking of using them for the front clip rather than the Dzus fasteners..

Do you have any handy snap-shots of yours that you'd post?

 

[Bill Musarra]

Randy,
As I posted earlier the car is out of the house. I have to wait until they finish to get anymore work done. It is like pulling teeth whit these guys. But they are trying to actually save me some money??!! I have the mounting brackets made and just have to mount them. My painter owes me some time and will get him to mount them securely to the body. There is plenty of room for error in installing them, but I want it right. You are right at the best time of the build to install them now. When all the accessories are in, there isn't much room to work in those areas. Especially when you mount your overflow/reservoir.I found a couple of old ones of the early mockup. they aren't to clear, but it gives you an idea.

Bill

 

[Randy V]

Thanks Bill - The old Picture worth a thousand words thing really holds true for me... Sorry I missed the part about your car being out of pocket for now... Hope you get her home soon!

 

[Jim Pearson]

Hi Randy,

It's my old GTD40 linked in Bill M's post #12.

I no longer have the car so can't take any shots for you but have attached a few close-ups from my archive.

None are very revealing of the external fit - but that just shows how low profile they are!

Mine were left black as supplied - and were virtually invisible against the dark blue body - but I understand they can be painted.

Worked absolutely fine for me.

Regards,

Jim

 

[Randy V]

:thumbsup:

Outstanding Jim!!!

Thank you very much!!!

 

[Mark Worthington]

Coast Fabrication now sells the Aerocatch and there is a new model available, the Aerocatch 2, where the pin extends horizontally instead of vertically. Primarily intended for marine panel applications. They's be perfect for a GT40 if the distance between the center of the pin and the mounting surface were more like 25 mm instead of 15 mm. Unfortunately, that dimension is not adjustable.

I ordered the flush-mount, locking variety. Looks like a pretty slick solution, and if the latch key is on the same ring as your ignition key, it'd be pretty hard to leave the paddock with your clip unlatched.

 

[Huw Peplow]

For the front clip instead of a latch I have mounted gas rams inside the wheel arch to the head light box side. This is so arranged to put a closing force on the clip as it closes past the last 20 degrees of closing and an opening force as its opened past the twenty degree point .This results in a closing mechanism that has only the two side latches as a safety back up . So far no problem at 165 mph as read of the speedo (so possibly 10 percent error).The rear clip however is about to get aero catches as I dont feel safe with the old rf items.