Making a bulkhead window.

[Darrin]

Was planning to buy from a vendor here but they decided not to sell to me so I got thinking on how to make my own.

My thought is to sandwich a sheet of Lexan between two sheets of Plexiglass. Combined, the three sheets will be slightly over 1/4" thick and should very strong. Optionally, a 1/4" piece of Plexiglass. I know the Lexan can yellow when exposed to UV, but on the bulkhead I doubt it would be an issue.

Cutting the components shouldn't be a problem but I do worry about mounting it. Would love a metal bracket but don't know how to get something like that.

Anyway, am I going overboard with the Plexi/Lexan/Plexi idea or does that sound good and how might you mount the thing? Builder suggests 2 metres of Part No SWR149 from Seals Direct but I really would love a metal bracket if I can get one made somehow reasonably.

 

[Fran Hall RCR]

Darrin,

whay not have a local automotive glass company cut you a piece of safety glass....flat will work just fine...should only cost a few bucks..

You can glue/silicon it in place and install an aluminum trim around the edge to support it and prevent damage..

 

[Darrin]

Thanks Fran. I'll check into that tomorrow!

 

[Bob Stoeger]

Darrin,
Fran is right glass is a better chose but use windshield urethane to bond it in it will be a lot stronger. I used the safety glass on mine but then used a rubber profile around it, check out the attached pic
Bob

 

[David]

Darrin,

I asked Darren about this and he said:

If you go to somewhere like your local Autoglass truck and bus divisions, or a plant glass company they'll be able to cut your rear window from the 6.3mm laminated glass that they use on commercial vehicle windows and will fit into the SWR150 profile from Rubber Door Seals | Rubber Extrusions | Window Rubbers | Boat and Caravan Seals | UK.

Obviously that's a UK site but you should be able to find similar in the US.

 

[Bob Stoeger]

Try this place for the rubber profile Steele Rubber Products Online Catalog
this is where I got mine from.
Bob

 

[clive]

I fabricated a 'c' channel frame to fit the opening, with a removeable top section. This locates within the 30mm or so thick roll cage/space frame. Had a local glazier fit 2 pieces of laminated glass to it with about a 10mm air gap in between. Once the glass was siliconed in the top section was no longer removeable. I'm hoping this will reduce both heat and sound transmission.

Clive

 

[Darrin]

Resurrecting an old thread here....

OK, I have the glass (Lexan like stuff) and am confused on how to mount it. I had the glass made slightly larger than the opening (about 3/8").

It looks like folks are saying to glue it into place using window urethane directly to the aluminum. Is that right?

If so, then I'll need some sort of 90 degree stripping (one side to glue to the bulkhead and the other side to act as a lip going over part of the "glass").

Not much luck finding such an animal right now but I'll keep trying.

 

[Ken Roberts]

I simply bonded the tempered glass to the aluminum bulkhead. I didn't use any rubber trim. The black you see at the edge of the glass is actually the urethane. If I was to do it again I'd bond the window on the "interior side". The bulkhead was sitting horizontally on a table when the glass was bonded to it.

 

[Bill Musarra]

Darrin,
If you want it to be removable to access the distributor area, then you might consider something like this:

When you add your interior you need to create a recessed area for the glass to sit in.

McMasterr carr has the edging. McMaster-Carr Shape around the glass. The mounting brackets are just scrap aluminum that is L shaped. Use standard bolts that you shave the heads down so as not to push the molding away from the glass. Secure with nylocs. The mounting screws to the frame are just enough to screw into the fiberglass, or secure on the engine side if you don't mind it showing. The bottom bracket should be large enough to hold the glass in the position that you want. My 40 has an ledge that it can sit on. The beginning and end of the molding is at the top and is hidden in the pics by the roll cage. The thickness of the glass will be a good insulator for heat and noise. If you want more add another to the engine side.

Bill

 

[Jack Houpe]

I use to make and sell the rear windows with my cnc router out of 3/4 acrylic, but have found out the 1/4 laminated (safety glass) blocks more noise than the 3/4 acrylic.

 

[Jim Cowden]

I would imagine safety glass would have better fire rating than plastic.
Except Jacks 3/4 rear window I think you would be safe with that.

Darrin if your gluing you only need a U channel extrusion around the outside.

If it was me I would tape up a boarder 1/2 to 3/4" on the mounting face side, sand it down and paint it with acrylic, while the paint is wet pull the tape and paper off.
When you put the bead of sealer on the sheet it will hide it under the paint.
If you have a nice edge on the sheet you wont have the need to put a mould.
If you aris the edge like glass even better.

jim

 

[Bill Musarra]

Remember that if you don't use edging, and you ARE using an interior, you have to finish off the edges that will come up to the window. Notice my 1st and 3rd pix. The recess is a result of the backer material. The leather just tucks in behind the edging. Gives it a more finished appearance IMHO.

Bill

 

[Darrin]

Thanks everyone for the replies!

What I think I'll do then is get some edging that fits, install it around the "glass", then put a thick bead of the 3M window urethane down on the bulkhead and install the thing from the inside of the cockpit.

I don't need access to the distributor (modular engine) so affixing it permanently isn't a big deal. Might consider adding a plate of tempered glass to the engine side too though for fire and sound insulation purposes. That I'll just glue down.