Idea for pedal area

The pedal area on my car (and I guess about everyone's) is really cramped. I have an idea that I think will work to get some more room but I wanted to bounce it off of the forum first.

I have the clutch and brake where I want them (not optimal, but the best I am going to get). The gas though is a little tight against the upper water pipe. What I am planning to do is cut the top pipe, put a 90 degree silicone elbow on, another, another, and still one last one each with pipe in between to tighten the hose clamps to. Thus, I will form a U in the pipe that will remove it as an obstacle to my gas pedal foot (LHD). It will of course intrude into the passenger area, but there is a lot of room there anyway and I will wall that section off where the pipe is.

I can't really see any issue with this as long as I tighten things right but thought I should see what the forum says. It sure will give me the space I need.
 

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Each 90 degree elbow causes a tremendous amount of drag in the system. If the cooling system is marginal at all, this would make it worse.

Probably takes more power to push water through this as well.
 
Each 90 degree elbow causes a tremendous amount of drag in the system. If the cooling system is marginal at all, this would make it worse.

Probably takes more power to push water through this as well.

The pipes have a 1.5" ID (1.9 OD). So they are over sized compared to the radiator inlet/outlet. The 90 degree bends shouldn't neck down to the size of the radiator inlet/outlet either.
 
The pipes have a 1.5" ID (1.9 OD). So they are over sized compared to the radiator inlet/outlet. The 90 degree bends shouldn't neck down to the size of the radiator inlet/outlet either.


The math is way more complex than can be discussed here (it uses derivatives and Reynolds numbers) but a rough estimate for 1.5" tube is that each 90 is like adding another 7.4 feet of straight tubing in terms of resistance. Here's a link for bedtime reading: Pressure drop in pipe fittings and valves | equivalent length and resistance coefficient

So by adding those three 90s, you are adding the equivalent of about 22' of 1.5" tube, or, put another way, approximately doubling the resistance of a front-to-rear traversal of your car (if you assume that the total length of your coolant tubing is around 11' from the rad to the WP and back, then you are already going forward and back once. Adding these 3 90s is like doing the circuit twice.)
 
I could go two 45s and a 90 or I guess better still two 30s and a 60. That shouldn't add much at all resistance wise although it will be a bit more expensive.

So, going with two 30s and a 60 raise any concerns?
 

Julian

Lifetime Supporter
Personally I hate to rely on hoses on the interior, why not consider getting a section of mandrel bent steel tubing to provide a subtle kink for the space you need and which can be secured with straight hose couplings.

Julian
 

Dimi Terleckyj

Lifetime Supporter
Darrin

Be very careful with hoses in the cabin because if one splits or leaks you will have boiling water leaking, spraying, flowing in the cabin area and usually at the worst possible moment.

Dimi
 
I hear your concerns Dimi and I think the idea of a mandrel bent piece is a very good one Julian. As I mentioned in the first post I plan to section this area off either way for safety reasons.

I'll check into that mandrel bent section!

Thanks.
 
I was thinking about pedals myself yesterday.
Obviously I have a proper layout with the pedals on the right ;) but still just as cramped, my intention is rather than run them centrally to run the pipes as far to the passenger side as possible and narrow the tunnel at the end where it passes the pedals. I still have a throttle stop in the the form of the chassis tube though.

20131116_234600.jpg


I can cut the very corner off the pedal if need be but I think I've got enough pedal travel.

I'm also planning on not using Darrens layout for the end but use two flexible sections to go over and under the rack to reduce the number of bends.
 
Darrin,
Your thoughts have got my brain working. I think I have a solution for you that will give you two new uses.
First a little history with my build. I didn't like the over/under arrangement of my cooling pipes. I put a few bends in the return line as it entered the rear cabin and as a result have them on a side by side arrangement. The bends are placed as close to the shifter as I could to get them, as far ahead of the seats as possible. It is tight in my car.

PC010021.jpg


Then altered the console to fit. I split it and expanded it after the step downs

P1010039.jpg

Doing this will make the seats a snug fit, up against the console. If you secure the mounting bolts for the seats to the floor with a nut and bolt arrangement, getting the seats in and out is a breeze. In the second photo I added a false floor to the passenger side with thick plywood about an inch or so above the floor to cover all the wires that were on the cabin floor. I could have been neater. I was adding circuits as I went along. As it is, it hides not only the small wires but the cables from the battery, and the throttle.
Some more pics of my cabin arrangement.

PB170157_zpsaa5f8464.jpg

PB170160_zpsca975c9b.jpg


On the driver's side the false floor is just a thin layer of plywood. It is groved to hide the brake and clutch lines. This moved the cooling pipes lower, or my feet higher for my right foot to rest on the console. It is about 2" or so above the floor with insulation and padding on the console and just carpeting on the thin plywood. This helped smooth out the floor also, as I have the washboard floors. With just these changes you should solve your foot problem.
I showed you the foot rest for a reason. It is at the distance that seems to be comfortable for the passenger(my legs anyway). It has a brace on the front that is welded to the A frame mount in my car(C-4). I think all passengers need a stop pedal!!
With the drawing below, original layout of my car's tubing,on top, you can build a footrest for your passengers by running the hot line over to the right ledge of the front frame member and then straight on to the radiator. Might have to add some slight bends to get around frame ends. For me it will eliminate 4 bends in the pipe and several tubing clamps. Put a rolled edge on the cover and they will have something to rest thier feet on. Add a petal and they will have something to press on as well. On long trips in the winter time it might even be a foot warmer!!
BTW I used exhaust pipe for the cooling pipes and rubber bends for the 90 degree turns. All turns are outside the cabin. The new bends inside would be done on a bender.
coolingpipes_zps21d0c738.jpg
 
Thank you very much Bill! I like this. Not sure it will work in my configuration just yet but I will think it over. The main thing is the seats JUST fit now. Don't have the room to go side by side all the way back and it would mean cutting a lot of the metal work that is there now away, but I like this and will see what I can do!

BTW, it looks like your rack attachment is much higher than mine. The way mine is, the metal tube goes between the pedals a bit. It doesn't interfere with my feet (and I have fairly fat feet) but I'd rather it not be there.
 
It depends on what rack you have. I have the Flaming River unit. Can't remember the model, but it was one of the quick steer units where the shaft comes off at an angle. It was the only one that had the correct measurements for my car(right hand to left hand steer). This winter I may move mine higher and add another joint so my feet don't rub the steering unit itself. Just waiting for the controller for mine before I undertake it.
If you alter the console you will have some left over sheet metal to work with. If you do the side by side try to get the bends as closer to the shifter as you can and the console will only impinge on the front corner of the seat(I have Racetech seats that have a high side piece). I attach the bolts to the seat and have large washers over the holes in the floor board for them to go through. Nylocks and large washers on the bottom. I have the waffle board bottom so they are in the recess area. It is so close on mine that it will really be a challenge when I get the leather on it.

Bill
 
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