Rules in OZ are the mirrors must be adjustable from the drivers seat.
I did have Toyota mirrors on for engineering when it went through the RTA, they where electric but also ugly.
I put some s/steel bullet mirrors on ,none adjustable.
The drivers mirror is simply put your arm out the window.
Passengers not so easy.
I decided to make the L/H adjustable, it turned out to be a marathon because of space issues, mechanical issues, design issues.
I cant believe I did 7 versions, I did not finish them to the completed stage as I could see dramas before that point.
In the end the solution was so simple its embarrassing that I could not see it but you get fixated and cant see the solution sometimes.
Version 1 the mirror on the front eyeballs and I made a uni joint to move it but it required some force to do that.
V2 a rocker to move the complete mirror cup on the ball in the base.
again lots of force required.
v3 -4 -5 I got hold of 12v motors with 300:1 gearboxes , I also bought 200 robotics plastic gears, all cheap as chips.
all versions had issues with packaging.
I moved the pivot point to the centre of the cup but that caused other issues with space.
The stuff I made looked like the inside of a clock but always an issue that gave me grief.
About 1/2 way through all this torture I kept thinking a scissor jack design is probably the answer but kept on with the direction for some reason.
In the end I drilled a 10mm hole down through the stem that mounts to the door, at the top of the stem the plastic ball mounts for the cup to rotate on in the original design.
I made another plastic ball and drilled a 10mm hole (press fit) in the ball.
I used a length of 10mm alloy rod and drilled a 5mm hole down the centre.
I machined 2 flats on the sides in the top 15mm, the total width was 8.1mm across.
The green plastic has a partial concave 3/4 ball shape on the underside and an 8mm slot through the centre.
2 links come of the back using m3 screws.
The links go to the thread adjuster on the threaded rod.
Nuts and washers stop the threaded rod from floating in the tube.
The plastic ball is pressed onto the alloy shaft, the green plastic clamping plate is screwed into position, the front screw has a spacer the rear is used to get the desired tension on the ball.
The 2 flats pass through the slot in the block and this stops the mirror rotating left to right, it only allows up down.
The rod at the base inside the door has a lever with another screw adjuster so it rotates the mirror L to R by rotating the shaft.
I machined m5 alloy threaded crimps to attach to the threaded rod, in the end is a hole to suit a speedo cable that I bought from the wreckers.
I crimped the cable to the threaded part ,this then screws onto the threaded rod and also to the hand controller.
I did slide plastic tube over the cable it is not fixed at the ends ,it is cable tied inside the door ,it stops the cable generating a hoop when you adjust the mirror.
Because of the threaded adjusters it holds position perfectly.
The photos are all of my phone as I am on holiday
If you say its to hard you have
Last edited by Jim C; 26th December 2016 at 06:08 PM.