Stewart-Warner 240A fuel pumps

[Jim Rosenthal]

Stewart-Warner is still in business, although they are located in PA, not in IL, but they still manufacture fuel pumps. I called them this morning.

I spoke with one of their folks today to get an idea of whether they would be willing to find the tooling, if it is still around, to produce a run of 240A fuel pumps. They would be made in the USA and be identical to the original ones, if they can find the tooling and specs. The gentleman at SW wanted to know how much demand there would be for these pumps, and what they could sell them for.

Could we get some indications of interest for this item? If there is enough demand, these folks might be willing to produce a run of pumps and service kits for them (the original pumps were rebuildable, I think). It would be very cool to have these available- nothing looks like them, and from the postings I've seen the reason that they were so popular is that they were very reliable and robust units.

Please post if you are interested. I will volunteer to be the organizer on this etc etc. Let me know.

 

[Randy V]

Most excellent!

When I saw that SW Brought back the old green-line guages - I actually thought about this - but never acted as you have..

I would think that a price right along with that of any premium grade electric pump would be acceptable.. Say $150 US..

There are a number of us that would be customers and with the restoration of racing cars from all venues being done around the world - I would think they would have a rather large customer base to draw from..

 

[John Shand]

I would be up for a pair, and rebuild the ones I have

 

Well done Jim. I'm much like John. I have a couple, but I would be up for a new pair and a couple of rebuild kits.

 

[Trevor Booth]

NOS units on ebay have sold for up to USD $850. used between USD 100-250
I have a pump that I purchased new in 1967 and it is still in use and never failed or been rebuilt. I have purchased used pumps on ebay, cleaned them and put them to use. I have rebuilt a lot over the years but parts now are VERY rare.
They are without doubt a superb unit and ultra reliable. The most common failure that I have experienced is the switch on some of the used units I have purchased.
The piston is also susceptible to sticking if the fuel is not clean. Regular filter cleaning is a must.

a USD 150 sell price would be super cheap. I would suggest they could sell for 200-250

 

[Jim Rosenthal]

Unfortunately I got home from work and found an email from the man at SW stating that the tooling had been scrapped years back. What a disappointment.

So: I am going to nose around and see if anyone would be in a position to build them by copying an old one. I'll keep everyone posted.

 

[JimmyMac]

They are without doubt a superb unit and ultra reliable. The most common failure that I have experienced is the switch on some of the used units I have purchased.
I would suggest they could sell for 200-250

Minimum of $350 in my opinion. (compare them to Aeromotive A1000's for example)
I have heard quite a few comments regarding the longevity of that switch.
Now if only someone would make a modern replacement for it ?

 

[Trevor Booth]

Jim,
SW may have the drawings ??? they would be very easy to make, the switch is the complicated bit

JimmyMac
the switch is usually repairable, just needs patience

Quite often the switch is damaged when people disamantle the pump without knowing how to or even just cleaning the pump internally can damage the switch if not carefull

 

[JimmyMac]

Trevor,
I got lucky a while back and bought six NOS 240As so no worries there.

As for the DIY chap, new switches for the 240A turn up on eBay occasionally but these fetch a ransom, and I have also seen several used pumps for sale without the switch.

So if switches were readily available then it would be easier perhaps.
Maybe SW could supply these and gasket/seal kits to help.

The correct Fispa fuel filter regulators are also rare.

 

[Trevor Booth]

Jimmy Mac,
I also got lucky and have 2 NOS units + about 4 or 5 used ones that I have collected over the years. I have bought a couple without switches for spare parts. The switches can be repaired. I have repaired many pumps over the years invariably after someone has started to pull it apart and stuffed the switch in the process. ALL because they had dirty fuel in the first place.

I did make a solid state switch using a very small proximity switch, reqd mods to body of pump, it sort of worked but needed mods to the piston to make it work correctly.

There was someone in the US making gaskets and diaphragms as I recall was located in Texas, will see if I still have details. I now just make gaskets as I need them. With a lathe it is easy to make a cutting die. The gasket under the switch is the tricky one to make.

some early (80's) Alfas and Ferraris had correct Fispa filter / reg, some also had Fispa filter / reg with one connection at 90º rather than straight thru connections at 180º

 

[Randy V]

As for the DIY chap, new switches for the 240A turn up on eBay occasionally but these fetch a ransom, and I have also seen several used pumps for sale without the switch.

And there are the buggers that will put pictures up on ebay of every angle but the switch.. I bought one recently that did not show the switch. I emailed the seller asking if the switch was there and if so did the pump operate. He responded that he didn't know what I was talking about with the switch (I had explained it was the part with the wire) - and - that the pump was operational when he removed it from the car a few years back.

I bought the pump for ~125 US and when it arrived - it did not have a switch. It had also been tampered with internally.

I asked the seller what happened to the switch and told him that it had ben tampered with - asking for resolution. His curt response was "As is where is".
He now has a negative feedback which he is protesting.

From the other items he has bought and sold - I contend that he knew EXACTLY what I was talking about and what he was doing (trying to screw me)..

Be careful with these jokers out there... There are more that would like to screw you over than there are honest folks...

 

[JimmyMac]

Randy,
Do you think Stewart Warner might have out-sourced those switches ?

Maybe the guy who searched for the tooling would know if SW procured those switches or gaskets from a sub-contactor. If so they might still be out there.

 

[Randy V]

Randy,
Do you think Stewart Warner might have out-sourced those switches ?

Maybe the guy who searched for the tooling would know if SW procured those switches or gaskets from a sub-contactor. If so they might still be out there.

Hard to say -

Would be a good idea to ask the fellow at SW if there is **any** information regarding sub-contractors..

I've managed to resurrect a couple of switches by just exercising them through a few hundred cycles.. They are sealed as the switch's toggle is submersed in fuel - so - there's no way that I can find to get any contact cleaner or lubricant to the inner workings of the switch.

If anyone has any info to help - it would be appreciated by many of us...

 

[Scott Calabro]

Does not show the switch in detail but perhaps this may be of use to someone.

 

[Trevor Booth]

Randy,
If the switch has a positive action it is usually a contact problem

If the switch does not have a positive action it is probably damaged in the pivot for the toggle and wont click "over" This happens when persons try to dismantle the pump without first removing the switch. Dry running the pump doesnt help the cause either as the piston is not "dampened" by the fluid.

You can pull them apart by carefully filing away the case where it is staked over the three small tags.

If buying on ebay ask the seller the question "does the pump work" if the answer is yes and when you receive it does not, ebay will support you. I had this issue a few years back and I returned the pump and got a refund with ebay's support.

 

[Randy V]

Thanks for posting that sheet Scott.. I have that one but I'm sure many others do not...

Trevor - I have at least two switches that are not working. Well - they work in one direction (switch current) but not in the other direction. I'm going to give it a shot to cut one open at the tabs..

Another key part that get's screwed on these things is the two little brass tubes that make contact between the switch's pins and the coil terminals in the pump body..

You know - it's odd... I bought one of these pumps back in 1976 for my old 69 Corvette... Paid $30 for it brand new at "10,000 Auto Parts". That pump is still working today and has got at least 50k miles on it.. It sat for almost 10 years one time and started doing it's Thump-thump-thump dance as soon as a fresh battery was put to the system...

 

[Trevor Booth]

Randy you must be running CLEAN fuel !! I have a similar anecdote I purchased one new in 1966, used it in a racing car for ~ 10 years, car sat until 2004, rebuilt car , fire up the pump and 100% OK and still going !!

you may need to resilver the contacts, visit your local jewellry maker

The brass tube you can buy from aircraft model shops, needs a small crimp to make it a tight fit.

It is so important to have clean fuel, the piston to bore clearances are so close and the slightest amount of "stuff" will jam the pump. a filter on the fuel tank breather is a must, a bacteria like growth occcurs in old fuel, never use a wooden dipstick, clean the filter regularly.

 

[JimmyMac]

you may need to resilver the contacts, visit your local jewellry maker

The brass tube you can buy from aircraft model shops, needs a small crimp to make it a tight fit.

Randy
You might consider getting both of these items gold plated (better contact / no tarnish )

 

[John Shand]

I am thinking about making an electronic switching unit to replace the switch altogeather and
a plug to replace the old switch as one of mine is missing and the other dammaged beyond repair, any one done this? Would look the same, but no moving parts!

 

[Trevor Booth]

Hi John,
an external electronic switching wont work as pump will pump at same speed all the time.
the switching needs to be controlled by piston position and cycle rate.
I did make one using a prox switch which sort of worked but needed to modify piston. I did not continue with it as I then pulled the mech switch apart and fixed it.