Light weight BATTERY

I'm looking for a light weight battery for my GT40 build. The battery needs enough power to crank over a 302 Ford. The battery should be completely sealed (giving off no gases or liquids) and a long shelf life would be an asset as cars tend to sit a lot. Seems to be a lot of batteries to choose from. Which do you guys like ?
thanks, ranger jim
 

Neal

Lifetime Supporter
I ran an Odyssey PC 680 for years without issue. It cranked a 10.5 compression 347 without issue. Just be sure to keep a tender on it when not in use.
 

Terry Oxandale

Skinny Man
Shorai site notes that their batteries are not specifically warranted for aviation or automotive use (1800cc or less). Apparently they've got some good performance, but for that price, a warranty would be desired.

Braille L-ion are more robust for automotive use, but...$1K for a battery?

After looking at several sites, it would seem that size (bulk/mass) of battery, regardless of design, is still a constant in regards to automotive needs.
 
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I have two. The first battery I bought for my GT 40 was the Ultima Red Top on my 351/408 Windsor(466 RWHP) from June of 07 til 2012. CCA @0 degrees of 720, CA @ 32 degrees of 910 and a Reserve capacity of 96. This was removed and sat for 4 years and now is used to run the winch for pulling my 40 up and off the trailer without missing a beat. BTW it had dropped only to 12.2 volts during that layover time. My second battery for the Windsor is my Auto Craft Gold battery from Walmart. This one has CCA 800, CA 1000 and a reserve capacity of 115. Has yet to fail me or miss a beat.

Bill
 
Thanks Guys for the battery expertise.
Appears all I need to do is to lay down cash on a lithium model. But they are pricey.

ranger jim
 
Jim I have a Braille Lithium GU1R in my SLC. Cranks an LS7, Bosch starter on Grazziano Trans. I have an Ultima GTR with Braille Lightweigh AGM cranks 6.3 Ltr Chevy race engine, Hi-Tork starter on Porsche Trans.
Lithium batteries, (only buy quality you do not want to be Samsung), are expensive but have a considerably longer life than lead.

Timely thread for me. I just had multiple conversations with battery makers at SEMA including Anti Gravity and Braille. I started my build with the Braille AGM 21, but it is on the limit of what it can handle and drops below minimum power too fast on my setup after a few cranks.

Nice to hear that the GU1R is doing the job as that is the one I will probably upgrade to, plus its only slightly larger than the Braille AGM which means it will fit in the only space I have to put it. I think its 500-600 dollars, not cheap, but if that's what it takes not to be stranded somewhere - it is worth it to me.

The Braille rep said the L is twice as strong as the AGM although the specs don't really say that, since you have both batteries what is your take on cranking power and reserve power between the two?
 
Timely thread for me. I just had multiple conversations with battery makers at SEMA including Anti Gravity and Braille. I started my build with the Braille AGM 21, but it is on the limit of what it can handle and drops below minimum power too fast on my setup after a few cranks.

Nice to hear that the GU1R is doing the job as that is the one I will probably upgrade to, plus its only slightly larger than the Braille AGM which means it will fit in the only space I have to put it. I think its 500-600 dollars, not cheap, but if that's what it takes not to be stranded somewhere - it is worth it to me.

The Braille rep said the L is twice as strong as the AGM although the specs don't really say that, since you have both batteries what is your take on cranking power and reserve power between the two?

Both batteries do a great job in taxing applications. The Lithium is a noticeably stronger crank. Although the lithium costs over twice as much as the AGM it will last over twice as long. It is also a third, yes a third, lighter than the AGM. Long term Lithium is the best buy and a great weight save.
 
I saw a lithium battery at SEMA that shut off automatically if it turned sideways or upside down. You could also shut it off with a cell phone app. It was really small and light.

Sounds like you could do without the InReserve system or fuel inertia switch which could help offset the increased cost of the battery.
 
I'll take my Optima Group 51 batteries - I use them in every build. ~20lb weight, 450cca, cranks over 500+ cid engines when it's -40* outside like a boss. I typically get about 5-7yrs life out of them.

Good enough for me.

Btw, ISIS/I^2 will chomp down any battery if left powered on for any amount of time.
 
Both batteries do a great job in taxing applications. The Lithium is a noticeably stronger crank. Although the lithium costs over twice as much as the AGM it will last over twice as long. It is also a third, yes a third, lighter than the AGM. Long term Lithium is the best buy and a great weight save.

Thanks for the info.
The GU1R is actually 1/3rd the weight of the AGM 21.
6 lbs vs. 21 lbs
 
Mesa you are right, that is what I meant to convey. This Braille graph shows the difference between battery technologies.
 

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