How cut braided fuel hoses

[keithk]

Can anyone tell me the secret of how to cut a braided hose in a way the braid does not then 'mushroom' off the inner hose and then stop the retaining nut passing over it ? They are aeroquip hoses.
Cheers Keith

[Bill D]

I had success using duct tape and a very sharp hacksaw. Unwrap the tape and quickly push the hose into the fitting

Good luck
Bill

[woodz428]

Similarly to Bill D, I tape the end( electrical tape) very tightly and use a narrow cut off wheel. So far, so good.....I also clear the hose with air pressure to rid it of any debris.....but you probably know that..

[Sandy]

If you don't have the cutter, wrap good tape like duct tape or gaffers tape around the center of the section you want to cut, use a good hacksaw blade and you can do a pretty good job. Don't pull the tape until your ready to roll with the fitting, and wear gloves the wires hurt

The other option is to get one of the cutters from Summit Racing or Jegs. Looks like a small tree trimmer / bolt cutters and it works pretty good. I think it was around 30 bucks or so, and if you do a few fittings your money will be well spent, and less mess in the hose to clean up...

Sandy

[Scott Calabro]

Kieth,
Good black 3M electrical tape wound tight around hose.
Cut with a brand new, high quality 32 or better, teeth per inch hacksaw.
Blow out hose with dry nitrogen or clean shop air.
LEAVE the tape on, and assemble with a mandrel tool from Aeroquip.

Best,
S

[Jim]

yeah, what they said works. I also use a little silicone spray to help with the fitting.

[Howard Jones]

Electricians tape and thin stretched very tight and a high speed grinder and cutoff wheel. Cut towards the center from both sides. Don't cut all the way through from one side. Rotate 180 degrees and cut the other half.

I wash out with soap and water and then run the garden hose at full power through the hose section I just cut to clear it. Leave on tape until the last thing and you are ready to apply fitting.

I use silicon spray when putting the fitting on.

[Lynn Miner]

Howard has my vote. I've made hundreds of hoses using a cutoff wheel. It leaves a very smooth clean edge that won't "bite" your fingers.

[Pat Buckley]

A sharp chisel works well.

[Chris Martino]

For function & looks, I would go with the 'JAWS' dental work from James Bond legend for a good clean bite and finish.

You just don't know when you'll need to chew off a gondola cable...


Chris

[jwelter]

Order them pre-built to length and the connector style desired. Lots of aircraft supply shops will do this for you for very little additional cost. The nice side benefit is they are cleaned and pre tested. Very important for higher pressure applications. Also no bleeding fingers and more time to do other more enjoyable work on the car!

JW

[Bill Bayard]

Originally Posted by 5150

Kieth,
LEAVE the tape on, and assemble with a mandrel tool from Aeroquip.

Best,
S

I used a Dremel and cut off wheel. As long as I didn't let the cut become too hot, it left a very clean edge. I was able to pull the tape after the hose (wire ends) was seated inside the lip of the fitting. Vise with adapter, lubricant,
push/twist, etc. It began as a slow learning curve, but by the last hose, it had become quite easy.


Bill

[keithk]

Thanks to you all folks. Despite all the best advise nothing worked ;-) So off I went to my local airstrip and got them made up in minutes by one of the shops there. Should have done that in the first place.
Cheers. KK

[Chris Coote]

Run some masking tape around the hose.If you have an old brick bolster give it a bit of a sharpen.Lay the hose on a bit of flat aluminium plate.2 lb hammer and dont miss the bolster or it hurts your hand.In 2 quick hits it is through and the hose is not splayed.Made hundreds this way. Cheers.

[Brian Hamilton]

What I used to do was wrap the area with electrical tape, use a cut off wheel & die grinder, slice it, use the abrasive sides of the cutoff wheel to grind down the edges of the cut and make it more conical and take off any frays, blast it out with an air hose, silicone spray it up, quickly & carefully pull the tape on and push/twist the fitting on. Once you do it a few times, it gets really easy, but leave yourself a few inches to play with in case you gotta do it a few times. Haha

[Sandy]

Here is the link to the cutter, worth every penny.

Summit AN Braided Stainless Steel Hose Cutters: SUM-900040 - summitracing.com

[Earl J. Castillo]

The ultimate way to cut them and have so you can slip the tighting nut over the end is to: as mentioned numerous times use duct tape (no more than 2 revolutions), THEN tighten a regular stainless steel hose clamp just tight enough as to not distort the roundness regardless of size -4 to -16. A cut off wheel works best as does a hack saw. cut as close to the edge of the hose clamp as necessary, the clamp acts a as a guide so your cut is straight. Carefully remove the hose clamp as it has compressed the steelbraid evenly around. Remove the tape, slip the locking nut over as needed. Blow out any residue with a compressor. Proceed and continue the hose end assembly. The trick is the hose clamp.
Especially Oil and water lines -8, -10, -12

[Sandy]

That was one of the nice things the cutters do well is they sorta' crimp the ends when cut so it slips into the fitting nicely. I have never tried the hose clamp, but will do so as the cutter are only good to about -10 lines and sometimes these cool tricks make it easy!

Good tip!!

Sandy

[chuck smith]

use Aeroquip Startlite nomex hose, avoids all the SS braided hassel, saves your fingers, is lighter and looks more vintage. Pricey though.

[molleur]

I use the cutting wheel method using tightly wrapped electrical tape and a hose clamp. Maybe a bit redundant, but I also find a close fitting wooden dowel that fits the ID of the hose. Insert the dowel, tape it up, tighten hose clamp (the dowel lets you get it tight without distorting the hose) and cut with the wheel or NEW 32 tooth hacksaw blade. Make sure you blow out the hose with clean shop air.