spigot bearing

sibbat2 · 05-14-06, 03:40 PM

I have to remove a needle roller spigot bearing. Any ideas of the best way of doing this. I have already tried the filling up the hole with grease method.

Pantera1889 · 05-14-06, 04:56 PM

Use wet toilot paper instead of grease.It doesn't tend to squish out as easily.

Paul W · 05-14-06, 05:21 PM

I remember the tv show "Dream Machine" that built the CAV had the same problem, they welded a nut to the bearing so they could then just tighten up a bolt into it and force it out.

Jac Mac · 05-15-06, 03:43 AM

If you are going to replace the brg with a new one , pry out the needles /cage with an old screwdriver and then grind thru the shell or outer ring with a die grinder to collapse it. It should now come out by pulling with a hooked scriber etc.
Cheers Jack.

Tony Hunt · 05-15-06, 06:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sibbat2

I have to remove a needle roller spigot bearing. Any ideas of the best way of doing this. I have already tried the filling up the hole with grease method.

E-mail me. There is someone reasonably close to you who has a tool that will whisk it out in a jiffy. Mine took 5 minutes when I did the clutch during the winter.

sibbat2 · 05-18-06, 07:53 PM

Managed to get the spigot bearing out using a grinder. Then I discovered that there is no clearance between the spigot bearing holder and the clutch disc central hub. I am certain that this is the culprit which has been giving the clutch drag issue . So I removed the holder with great difficulty using a rawl bolt and some pulling. I am going to shorten the holder to create more clearance.

Howard Jones · 05-22-06, 01:29 PM

I put mine back together the following way.

First I made a insert that fits, same diameter as bore but without interference fit, into the smaller bore behind the spiog bearing adapter bore in the back of the crank. It is 1/4" thick and threaded with 3/8 X 18 threads. I put in first with a little RTV to prevent it from turning later.

Then before I press in the bearing into the adapter I put a thin washer behind it that has a 3/8 hole in the center.

I then press the adapter into the crank. Heat crank with hair drier and place adapter into the freezer first.

When it all needs to come apart I simply pull out the entire assemble, adapter with bearing in it, with a long 3/8 bolt and puller by threading it into the the insert behind the adapter. The insert pulls out the adapter from behind as it comes out.

After the adapter is out, I get the bearing out of the adapter in one piece by pressing on the washer from behind to push out the bearing.

This works really well and nothing, including the bearing, gets dammaged.

John Fitzpatrick · 05-24-06, 10:38 AM

That is without a doubt the slickest idea I've come across in ages! Honor is due!

Jac Mac · 05-26-06, 08:53 AM

Please be very careful with this one guys and ensure that the trans input shaft does not touch the washer, I know its not likely to in this application but if it were the thrust faces of the crank/ centre main would be history in no time.
Cheers Jack.

Howard Jones · 06-19-06, 06:11 PM

I should add that Jac is correct. I took mine apart and found that the upgraded input shaft is a bit longer than the stock R21 Renault input shaft. This will indeed cause a intereference issue with the above mentioned washer.

So......... you should make sure that the input shaft is free after installation of the gearbox to the motor. A really good habbit anyway.