Removing the roll pins in the ZF cross shaft

[Bill D]

I want to remove them and replace them with Grade 8 hardware. How can I get them out?

[Pat Buckley]

Have you tried a hammer and a drift?

[Kalun D]

Originally Posted by Bill D

I want to remove them and replace them with Grade 8 hardware. How can I get them out?

specific tool with a centering ball on the tip




in a pinch you can take a nail of the correct diameter and grind the point flat

assuming you're replacing the roll pin because it's not strong enough...

If there's no clearance for bolt heads/nuts, you can strengthen a roll pin by taking a smaller diameter roll pin that fits inside the diameter of the existing roll pin and driving it into the center, in effect a double roll pin.

[Pete]

When it comes to the forces a transmission see's aren't the roll pins a designed weak link that shears hopefully saving other parts? Or at the point something breaks is it a moot point?

Pete

[Steve C]

Bill,

Where are the roll pins you want to replace and why do you think there is a problem if that is what RBT supplied?

Steve

[Bill D]

Steve
The roll pins hold the throw out bearing fork to the cross shaft. My concern is, if I have to remove them, it's going to be a real PITA

[Gregg]

Sounds like unnecessary work to me. If it is not a weak link now, why not wait to see if there is ever a problem and take care of it then. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

[Steve C]

So Bill: is the problem that the shaft is in but you don't have the shaft to case bearings and the inner nylon bushings in ...so you need to remove the shaft to properly assemble?

If so justr remove as advised above and reassemble with same pins ...You will be OK

Steve

[Kalun D]

Originally Posted by Bill D

Steve
The roll pins hold the throw out bearing fork to the cross shaft. My concern is, if I have to remove them, it's going to be a real PITA

should have guessed you were talking about your throw-out shaft.

in this application a bolt is probably not the best. A roll pin is used because it has a tighter fit than a bolt. Unless you got lucky a bolt will have at least some clearance. Clearance means movement between pieces, which means impact force (hammering) which means it gets looser with time.

One thing to look out for with split type roll pins. For optimum strength the split gap should be aligned in the direction of force and not across the line of force. So with a TO bearing you should be aligned front to rear of the vehicle. This is so the force has less leverage to close the gap and cause looseness.

Roll pins are easier than bolts to remove, as far as you've come with your project I'm surprised you're letting a roll pin get you flustered

[Kalun D]

Originally Posted by ECONOMAN

When it comes to the forces a transmission see's aren't the roll pins a designed weak link that shears hopefully saving other parts? Or at the point something breaks is it a moot point?

Pete

roll pins are the most economical way to have a no-play joint between a shaft and other pieces. They are usually the weakest link, whether or not that's by design I do not know.

[Bill D]

They're in and hopefully will never have to come out!