Racemettle starter grinding

[Pat]

I've installed the Racemettle geared starter and while it engages the engine and turns it over quite well, as soon as the engine fires, there is a very loud grinding sound as the starter disengages. The sound is not present if I turn the engine over without it starting (i.e. with the fuel pumps off).

Does anyone have any experience with these and is this possibly normal?
Any suggestions?

 

[Jac Mac]

I've installed the Racemettle geared starter and while it engages the engine and turns it over quite well, as soon as the engine fires, there is a very loud grinding sound as the starter disengages. The sound is not present if I turn the engine over without it starting (i.e. with the fuel pumps off).

Does anyone have any experience with these and is this possibly normal?
Any suggestions?

NOT Racemettle but starters in general. A sound like that is normal for many starters but its hard to decide when it might be considered excessive. Usually I have found that excessive sound occurs when the starter pinion mesh is too tight ( c/l of starter shaft to close to c/l of crankshaft) and the drag created slows the exit of the pinion when the motor fires. This is the reason you dont hear it with the ignition/fuel disconnected as the pinion is probably still engaged with the ring gear and wont release until the ring gear is rotated. Before attacking the starter body with a grinder etc, ensure that all block /bellhousing dowels etc , sandwich plate are present & correct as these play a part in starter location as well.

 

[Pat]

Thanks for the insight JAC MAC.
Interestingly, my car doesn't have any plate between the starter and the bellhousing. Does anyone have a spec for that in terms of thickness?

 

[Tim Kay]

Similar problem I had except it was on engagement, Hi-Torque to G50 flywheel (custom made by Tilton). The annoyning noise in my case was remedied by grinding a chamfer on the leading edge of the starter pinion to help it slide in place smoother.

What do others here think about chamfering the opposite side of the pinion to help kick it back out of engagement? Just a thought

 

[Jac Mac]

Thanks for the insight JAC MAC.
Interestingly, my car doesn't have any plate between the starter and the bellhousing. Does anyone have a spec for that in terms of thickness?

Std Ford plates are about 0.060" steel which should not create too many problems with input shaft/spigot brg, and release brg setup. I would suggest that is where your problem lies. Just a matter of finding one that matchs the ring gear dia you have.
Not so good news is transaxle etc must be removed to fit it.

Tim, grinding pinon teeth to expedite disengagement will acheive nothing, its the helical spline on the pinion shaft that aids disengagement when the motor fires and forces the pinion out of mesh.

 

[Pat]

Thanks Jac Mac,

It does appear that there is a shim plate between the flywheel and the ring gear. There just isn't anything between the starter and the bellhousing. There also seems to be pinion clearance but as you suggested earlier, the starter and ring gear centerlines may be too tight.

 

[Jac Mac]

Thanks Jac Mac,

It does appear that there is a shim plate between the flywheel and the ring gear. There just isn't anything between the starter and the bellhousing. There also seems to be pinion clearance but as you suggested earlier, the starter and ring gear centerlines may be too tight.

There does not seem to be any register on that starter snout that would locate in a sandwich plate anyway. Try loosening the two/or three starter attach bolts and apply some leverage to the starter to force it away from the ring gear while you re-tighten it.

Might also pay to remove it and check that there is no part of the bellhousing touching the starter snout when fitted and therefore forcing it deeper into mesh when tightened, a bit of clearancing with diegrinder & burr might be all thats reqd.