Removing ZF transaxle with Kennedy Bell housing

Ron McCall

Supporter
Only if someone has machined holes in the top of the bellhousing to access the two top bolts. There are 5 bolts that come from the outside and 2 that come from inside the bellhousing.
 

Pat Buckley

GT40s Supporter
Like this
 

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I thought about doing something like that, but since I don't plan to remove the transaxle very often I will deal with the removal like I did it yesterday. We separated the Trans from the block and pulled it back enough to reach into the bellhousing and removed the two bolts with little fuss. Then slipped everything out from under the cross member.
 

Randy V

Moderator-Admin
Staff member
Admin
Lifetime Supporter
I would most definitely make that modification to the bellhousing if I had a ZF.. If for no other reason than to offer a bit of ventilation for the clutch's heat...
 
I thought about doing something like that, but since I don't plan to remove the transaxle very often I will deal with the removal like I did it yesterday. We separated the Trans from the block and pulled it back enough to reach into the bellhousing and removed the two bolts with little fuss. Then slipped everything out from under the cross member.
If your going to dial indicate your bell housing to ensure its concentric with the crank & trans...and I strongly recommend that you do, given the comments of others who have had similar issues... the few minutes it would take to drill those holes will make life so much easier as once you have checked / rectified the runout if any you would be best to leave the bell housing on the engine & simply bolt the trans up by itself.
 
Allen,

Like others have stated, cutting the holes is worth it. It cuts removal and replacement time gobs! The other trick I learned from John Schriver is taking long bolts cutting the hex heads off and using them for alignment pins in the bell housing to reinstall the ZF more easily.

When taking out or replacing the inside bolts to put it back together I use my mechanical fingers to keep from dropping the bolts into the bell housing.

Works like a charm! :idea:

Later,
Howard
 
The other trick I learned from John Schriver is taking long bolts cutting the hex heads off and using them for alignment pins in the bell housing to reinstall the ZF more easily.

This trick works equally well if you have your bellhousing attached to your ZF; you just thread those long pins into the holes in the back of the block, hang the ZF on the pins, slide it forward, and with perhaps a tiny amount of turning the output flanges, the input shaft slides right into place, no muss, no fuss. :thumbsup:
 
OK, now I am trying to replace my clutch fork with he new one Fran sent me.

We drove out the roll pins. What is the trick to removing the shaft the fork is on?

Thanks in advance.:thumbsup:
 

Ron McCall

Supporter
OK, now I am trying to replace my clutch fork with he new one Fran sent me.

We drove out the roll pins. What is the trick to removing the shaft the fork is on?

Thanks in advance.:thumbsup:


Did you remove all four roll pins? There are two in each hole. If you have, you can gently ( with a brass or lead hammer) tap the shaft towards the side with the dust cap .The cap will pop out. this will allow you to take a small brass punch and drive the shaft out the other direction.
 
Pins are removed, but the fork won't spin on the shaft.

I am concerned about the locater tabs could be damaged if I try to drive the shaft out. Any ideas?
 
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