Setting up a Porsche G50 rod gear change for the first time

Hi,

Any advice on setting up the gear change, I have no idea what to adjust or how to adjust it. Is there anyway of setting a base line and working from there.

I had trouble selecting reverse and 5th both at extreme opposite ends of the gate. I had to take the aluminum gate guide off to get enough sideways movement to engage the gears.
 
When you drove away you obviously got reverse then 1st OK, what happened then , did you try to get 2nd and lose everything or just unable too select reverse to back up the road to house. It could be a forgotten cable jamb nut or as you mention some fine tuning on the shifter gate etc. it looks like a dual cable shifter so assuming ( Yeh, I know, Im always saying never do that ) all is/was OK in the trans it must be adjustment or a leverage factor in the shifter assy..
 
How about a close up of the shifter mechanism at rear of transaxle, tried enlarging this pic but it leaves a bit to be desired in clarity.
 

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Thanks for your help, some pictures hope they are OK.

This is what I think happened although i may have confused things as to be honest I was panicking as I though I had damaged the engine or gearbox or both. Bit more relax now as my friend and calming influence Mike Pass has given me a pep talk and some pointers to check.

Had real trouble engaging reverse and 5th the two extreme ends of the gate. Took the gate plate off and was able to get reverse as it gave me a bit more sideways movement on the gear stick. Reversed off drive as seen on the video. Set off lot of resistance suspected brakes binding went for second gear the car was struggling seemed to be a lot of resistance so went for 1st can't remember if I got it as the engine revs dropped and she died. Got out tried to push her back and the wheels were locked solid. Got the jack lifted her up loosened of the rear caliper bolts as suspected pads where causing the problem on the drivers side and wheel seemed free.

Got her going reversed back to house again felt there was a lot of resistance engine struggled to overcome it then died. Checked the wheels again they seemed free so got back in started her up drove onto the drive and felt the engine was beginning to struggle again so switched her off and pushed her into the garage seemed to be a bit of "graunching" from the front offside wheel.

One concern is that it is only recently I found out the G50 gearbox can have problems mating and aligning correctly to a ford engine without offset dowels and a gauge on the crankshaft to check runout, which is something I have not done even if I knew how.
 

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Im sure there is a post on the site with info on dialing in the G50 to ford adaptors/bell housings.
If you have not then you should.
Attached pic with info to reduce amount of play in the neutral gate which I suspect Mike might have already suggested.
Have both brake master cyls got 'freeboard' at pedal pushrod/Master Cyl piston.
Does the transaxle have an LSD?
Any of those things could contribute to the binding your experiencing.
 

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Is it just me , as that seems an awfully complicated way to set up a rod change with all that linkage, all i use is a uni and a rod
this is to a VW box but i have the same set up on the Porker boxter box in the 5000



kaspa
 
Im sure there is a post on the site with info on dialing in the G50 to ford adaptors/bell housings.
If you have not then you should.
Attached pic with info to reduce amount of play in the neutral gate which I suspect Mike might have already suggested.
Have both brake master cyls got 'freeboard' at pedal pushrod/Master Cyl piston.
Does the transaxle have an LSD?
Any of those things could contribute to the binding your experiencing.


Thanks I will give it a try when it stops raining and I can push the car out the garage.
 

Terry Oxandale

Skinny Man
Is it just me , as that seems an awfully complicated way to set up a rod change with all that linkage, all i use is a uni and a rod
this is to a VW box but i have the same set up on the Porker boxter box in the 5000

kaspa

I'm only using the rod/universal joints as well on my 930. The Nick's photos of the G50 indicate everything is reversed from what you and I use. Inverting the box shouldn't change that, so I'm confused as well.

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At a guess I think its the cockpit end of the shifter mechanism that has dictated the rear trans setup. See pic in page two of his build thread
 

Howard Jones

Supporter
Move up one hole on cross gate lever as per Jac. He types faster than me. John How much did those Schoenfeld header mufflers on the VW transaxle car quite that setup. What did you think of them? I need a reduction of at least 5DB and would really like 8-9 if I could get it. Will they help me?
 
Hi Howard, they were pretty noisy, in a nice deep sounding way, and barked when the cam came on, the one thing i never did was put a sound meter on them but 5db probably but not a lot more.

Cheers kaspa
 
You & I know that John, but I think Nick might be struggling with our southern 'simple' ethic! :)

Yes simple is way above my level :)

I have a standard H pattern with everything in the right place unlike my 1935 Hudson box where if stressed I sometimes find myself trying to get reverse instead of 2nd, not good
 
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