A few questions re RF Build...SVA...

[Paul Thompson 'Hooligan']

Hi all -

I've been helping a friend with an RF build and have a few questions that I'm sure some of you will know the answer to...

1) - re SVA - we are looking to install some SVA compliant switches, to be replaced with more aesthetically pleasing items afterwards. Do you know if all circuits need to be operational.... i.e. could air-con be excluded? and possibly individual pump circuits..? Also - anyone got a spare/used set for loan or re-sale? (seems daft to buy new for SVA then bin/sell)

2) - I notice in the build manual, there is a timing ring (toothed) shown in one of the pictures. I'm fitting Motec to this car and whilst there is a Bosch pickup mounted on the timing cover, there is no toothed ring fitted to the back of the front pulley/damper assy... Does anyone know if this is a standard Ford Part? - an RF add-on? - or a Motec part? ... I could install a generic item but as the trigger is already there I guess there must be a corresponding wheel available..

3) - The car is fitted with a Smiths Electronic Speedo, no problems there, and I see the Audi box has a speed sensor pickup on the near side (UK) - anyone else using this? any issues to consider? as I see in the build manual a mechanical cable setup is indicated.

4) - What make / model is the donor for the steering rack? - again, for SVA we need to confirm its identity/compliance... Someone suggested it was of MGB origin??

5) - Final one for moment - are accurate wiring diagrams available from anywhere/anyone? I've already come across some 'intriguing' circuits and diagrams will no doubt make for easier fault-finding....

Thanks all -

Great car by the way - and it looks great with the Jenvey 48mm throttle bodies on top (IDA) - I forgot my camera today, but next time i'm there, I'll snap and post...

Thanks all -

[Mark Worthington]

Paul, I'm pretty sure the steering rack is from a Cortina.

[Brett James-McCall]

Originally Posted by p thompson

1) - re SVA - we are looking to install some SVA compliant switches, to be replaced with more aesthetically pleasing items afterwards. Do you know if all circuits need to be operational.... i.e. could air-con be excluded? and possibly individual pump circuits..? Also - anyone got a spare/used set for loan or re-sale? (seems daft to buy new for SVA then bin/sell)

Paul, I don't think they have to be, in that case, why don't you not install them and just put blanking grommets in. Also, you have a 8 inch area around the steering wheel where it doesn't count or something like that but my book is in the garage and I'll have to dig it out tomorrow/over the weekend. You only need to have the minimum as laid down by the rule book, so air con you don't neeed nut screen heater you would. You also woudn't need lower driving lights.

4) - What make / model is the donor for the steering rack? - again, for SVA we need to confirm its identity/compliance... Someone suggested it was of MGB origin??

Do you mean rack or column. I didn't think that the rack had to be shown to be a type approved or similar unit, but the column did?

Brett

[Jerry]

Hi Paul,

1)To get the toggle switches through the SVA on my R.F., i made a plate to sit on the dash with 6mm bar bent into semi-circles on it so the testers sphere could not touch the dimmer switch or the end two toggles. the remainder of the switches are in the exclurion zone around the steering wheel.

2) The serpentine belt set up that is on the Ford Explorers has the toothed ring. This is what was fitted to mine on the crate SVO engine i fitted. I used it with the Omex injection system.

3) I'm using the Smiths electronic speedo and the Audi sensor( its a reed switch) with no problems.The Wiring has to be adapted on the speedo short loom to get the electronic speedo working. One of the cut off wires needs to be a power feed( connect red and green together i think!!!)

4)The steering rack is from a cortina, but I told and DVLA & mr SVA tester that the rack comes as part of the kit, and was brand new so there were no issues with it.

5)Couldnt get a wiring diagram out of the old rf company so had to spend many a happy evening tracing wires through looms as i was using the Omex ECU

Hope this helps, Jerry

[Paul Thompson 'Hooligan']

Cheers chaps -
All very usefull info, I especially like your ideas re the switches Jerry.

And you're right Brett - I did mean the column - having a bit if a 'dense' moment!

Still wondering about the timing toothed wheel + speedo pickup..

Anyone else....

esp - wiring diagrams...?

[Mark Worthington]

The RHD RF column is from a Triumph Dolomite.

[Paul Thompson 'Hooligan']

Thanks Mark...

[The New Roaring Forties]

Guys Please,

All you need to do is ask. I'm a bit surprised that even people we have helped / delt with recently don't know to contact us when you have problems like these.

Paul and Jerry, an RF electrical CD is on it's way to you both, it is very comprehensive and should answer all of your questions.

The toothed ring crank sensor is, as suggested, std on the B51 etc crate engines. The std RF engine wiring harness plugs straight into it for use with the Motec.

The rack, although quite modified, originates from a TD Cortina.
The column, although quite modified, originates from a circa '86 (in Australia) Mazda 626.

I hope this helps, and please feel free to PM these questions or give us a call anytime, only to happy to help if I can.

Regards Paul

[Paul Thompson 'Hooligan']

Paul -

Many thanks - your continued support is very much appreciated and I confess that as the car is not mine, and was not directly purchased from yourselves, I was reluctant to approach you for assistance, however, you have again showed an eagerness to provide continued support and I am most grateful -

I'm sure it also provides additional confidence to existing owners/builders.

[Huw Peplow]

Paul as I presume its one of the sa cars you are working on and its not mine I have now got a fully working electrical system and have to say it was difficult

There were loads of errors in its construction

I had a live wire directly connected to theearth on the fuel system thet was a feed to the return valve from the splash tank

The hazard warning light had a live wire missing etc

I think only the head lights worked straight off


Mine is so close to prep for its sva ,Currently rebushing the suspension as the sa bushes were crumbling

The new rf have been great so helpful they sent new bushes .Un known to them the bushes were too narrow as rf sa used a different guage steel but I just milled out some ally bushes

if you have any questions just pm them

huw

[The New Roaring Forties]

Guys,

Thanks for your support, no problems helping Paul whereever the car was from, besides, you're into Cosworths...

I am becoming increasingly aware of problems with the SA cars and differences between them and the Aus cars. I guess I can offer as much assistance as possible assuming the majority is similar, I just don't have a great deal of info from SA. I think there's only a couple of these cars around.

It is a shame Huw, that you had these problems, I would suggest these stem from the SA source as one reason we retain the services of Chris, the RF1 Aus Auto Elec, is that in his 80 odd harnesses, he has always provided an excellent quality product, faultless in our experience.

Regards Paul

[Peter Olliviere]

Ford Explorer Crank Damper with 50oz offset ,crank pully and trigger wheel.


Ford Part number F67Z6312AA.

Peter

[Ian Anderson]

Paul

For SVA
Take a sheet of Ali
Cut it to the length of the switch panel
Bend it to fit around the dash shape and screw it in place of the normal removable panel

Then squeeze all the swithces together near the steering wheel - it is an exempt area and no need for changes to switches.
Sticker up with Dymo tape so he can read what switch and what light does what as they will now not line up.

It may look crappy but it's only for the jobsworth!

After SVA change back to the oriiginal cover and switch spacing and send your ali piece to Huw for his test.

Unless the car has electric mirrors leave the windows out so he can adjust the mirrors.

With no windows you can also tape the aircon switches out the way behind the dash for the test.

Pic attached of my car in SVA set up

Ian

[Jerry]

Hi,

I put mine through the SVA test with the standard door windows in and had no problems. The tester reckoned that as they are not glass, then they dont have to be "safety glass"and therefore dont need to be marked up as such.

The items i had to change/modify for the test were-
1) Remove the knock-on spinners and manufacture and fit hex-nuts.
2) Manufacture and fit device to stop contact with the two end toggle switches.
3) Make and fit pad to cover aliminum on steering wheel.
4) Radius filler caps, door handles and rear lights to 2.5mm.
5) Fit grills to side body vents.
6) Fit fog light.
7) Rotate reversing lights 90 degrees.
8) Fit catalytic converters( i declared engine as brand new).
9) Cover 6mm bolt head on underside of heater.
10) Change handbrake pads to sintered bronze material.


I've used the new RF guys to get a new ignition switch and found them very helpfull and more importantly very resonably priced.
Jerry

[Paul Thompson 'Hooligan']

Thanks again all - most useful

[Bill Hara]

Paul

Does your friends car have a 5 speed or 6 speed Audi box? The electronic speedo works well with the 5 speed audi sender however that is not the case with the 6 speed unit. You need to setup a hall effect sensor for the 6 speed so that you can pull a signal that the speedo will recognise.

Bill.

[Jerry]

Hi Bill,

I connected my electronic speedo straight to the stock 6-speed audi sensor with no problems at all. Works a treat!

Jerry