WTD: 302 28oz crankshaft

As the message says and my coolant leak thread...

Does anyone have a 302 crankshaft 28oz balance. UK preferable as those things weigh a tonne for shipping :)

Thanks
Brett
 
Probably Keith, all internal ones I have come across are forged and normally over double the price to cast. Maybe something to consider when I do GT40 v2

Unfortunately Mike doesn't have any 28oz crankshafts, he only had one 50oz
 
Running a hydraulic cam & therefore accepting a rev limit ~6000 there is no real reason to go to internal balance since you already have damper & flywheel balanced to that 28oz factor, although there is a possibility that being unaware that you had a 289 crank for the previous work that there could have been some incorrect data input used on the last job depending on what equipment was used for that balance job, so it would be wise to get the whole lot checked again this time around. Do not forget all the other stuff suggested on the thread before we ended up with the crankshaft issue- coolant holes- skim block- check valve to piston clearance-gaskets & studs depending on what you intend doing etc. Your a bit older & wiser now...do it right....v2 might never happen.:)
 
That's what I would do, but IIRC Bretts a bit gun shy of pushing the pistons off the rods without damaging them.... there are a multitude of options like simply buying some 289 ( 5.155" ) rods and decking the block ( probably only have to get rod end for end weights same as those already done) or going to a better combo as follows....If it was mine I would do this... get some chev 5.7 rods, ford 347 stroker pistons with the common .927 pin size . With that combo the stack height is 8.205" so only a very light 0.005" cut to clean up the block and you have a combo that loves to rev. Bit of basic machine work reqd, but no big deal, as I said heaps of other options in between.
 
So to answer a few of the questions.

Sure I would love to make a 289, but the only rods I can find are H rods, which are considerably more. I also got a favour done in the workshops a long time ago to push the rods onto the pistons and that connection has now retired.

A 302 internal balanced crank is double the price of a cast one. If I was staring all over again, these are all things I would consider. However, after this amount of time on the build I just want to get the car going tested and driving; all of the options above are things I am logging for what to do as yes, I do want to replace this one with a higher spec build in the future.

I'll give Frank a call as he has said in the other thread, but failing that I've discovered it's cheaper to buy a crank from Summit's ebay shop due to the International Shipping programme than it is buying direct. Appears to save nearly $100++ in shipping and taxes.

Brett
 
I have an internally balanced rotataing assembly going begging and a 302 28oz crank that needs a grind. I think by the time you have paid for the grind the new zero balanced cranks from real steel start to look cheap.

Bob
 
Hi Brett. I have got a 1968 302 std crank which I think is 28 oz ( had a quick look on the net and it says it is but thats the net !!! ) its free upto you how you get it if you want it. I am in Northamptonshire. Cheers Pete.
 
If anybody needs a std 302 crank i have been hoarding a couple which i dont think i am going to use so if anybody needs one for free let me know. Thanks Pete.
 
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