workbench tops

Malcolm · 06-01-04, 08:26 AM

I am fitting out my garage and am constructing a large workbench. I am using 2 inch thick timbers with a planed surface that butt up to each other. This is satisfactory for now but I would like to metal sheet cover it in due course.

From your experiences, is it better to cover in stainless steel or aluminium sheeting? Which provides a better surface to work from?

ChrisL · 06-01-04, 08:37 AM

I used 1.5mm steel. It cost very little and I got the supplier to bend a lip at the front at no extra cost. I clean it with a spray of wax or oil, and the surface has taken on a dark-grey shine over time, but has remained unoxidized over 5 years.

Just my thought, but I would imagine that an aluminium sheet would be too soft if you intended to drag heavy items over it.

Malcolm · 06-01-04, 08:54 AM

I was thinking 3mm or 1/8 inch ali sheet. Interesting you used a non stainless steel with no ill effect from rust. That will keep the cost down indeed.

I need two 8 by 4 sheets of material. Any idea on how to best join the two sheets together without creating a sharp lip/edge to catch things on? Butt weld?

David Morton · 06-01-04, 09:17 AM

Zintac steel - very durable and just an occasional wipe with WD40 or similar.
Dave M

Bill Bayard · 06-01-04, 10:28 AM

Before you go building an expensive, complex workbench that will hold 1000lbs, read this:

I use complete kitchen counters and cabinets, removed from houses that are being rennovated. Great over and under storage cabinets, plenty of solid workbench room, a smooth formica top, a sink to ice down the beer, and best of all, they usually cost the price of removal (free!) [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img]
If an aluminum or S.S. top is required, glue it down, and you're done. Instant workbench! My present workbench(kitchen counter) easily supports 400lbs+.
I have added a grinder, vise, electrical outlets, small refrigerator, etc., to one.
I have two of these workbenches, one on either side of the garage, and don't have a penny invested. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

Bill

dave harris · 06-01-04, 10:33 AM

I've always used regular steel to cover the benches that will take a lot of abuse (transmission building etc) - a little WD-40 periodically and you dont' have a rust problem. Also, while you are doing it, construct it so that you have a slight slant from back to front - weld a small piece of angle steel to the front in a "V" configuration to act as a drain - place a bucket at the "low end" and you have a nice area to clean parts off and the fluids simply drain into the bucket!.

To join pcs of steel, either but weld and grind, or braise (sp?).

hope this helps

Kalun D · 06-01-04, 12:09 PM

Malcolm

14 gauge(.078") mild steel, or stainless if you can afford it. Cold rolled is a little nicer than hot rolled.

Counter sunk phillips screws, like deck screws to hold it down, although glueing sounds like a good option.

If your going to weld the seam it may warp unless your really careful. Butt welded thin sheet warps more than any other position. If your wood is very flat, and your metal edges very straight you may be able to just screw them down without joining the edge.

If the bench is usually going to be against the wall you can bend the back of the metal up to create an approx 4 inch high barrier to keep items from rolling off the back, although this limits your options as to setting larger objects on top.

Large wheels (4"-5")are also nice, with straight running ones under the vice end and swivel casters under the other, although it does sound like your bench may be a little long for this.

Dave, I think it's "braze"

Bill Musarra · 06-01-04, 08:46 PM

I picked up a butcher's block from a local grocery that went out of business. Sprayed it down with a pressure washer. Painted the rim and legs white, very heavy coats they were unfinished. Sanded the underside of the top which had never been used and I have a 10' work bench. I had a bunch of polyurethane leftover from some projects that was not good enough for household projects. Just smeared it on real thick and let it dry.Have to use a furniture mover and the hoist to move it. It's very heavy. Not bad for $10
Bill

Malcolm · 06-02-04, 08:22 AM

So far the cost of this bench has been only the price of the screws holding it together. I managed to acquire 800 feet of 8" by 2" timbers and a steel pallet designed for soffit and fascia boarding (turn it upside down and bingo 5 pairs of legs and a top frame) out of a skip! The idea of a metal top surface is just icing on the cake. The pallet had been cut down from 18' long to 15'6" and the depth of the bench will be 3'6".

I won't take up the idea of the front edge lip for liquid control (good idea that it is) as I also have a plan to convert a 2' by 3' butler sink and an old but working fish tank filtration system into a parts washer!

Today I picked up 16 steel joists from the same skip, but so far have only plans for a small number of them. Maybe I could put some under JPs MDA to slow him down a bit! I am sure he won't mind..... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]