Trick KO Tool

This is a cool KO Tool we made for my MK-IV, P4, and Lola...
 

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That is nice, Jim. Corsa Red, no? ;)

I've thought of making something similar only with a 32 mm bolt on the end so you could hit it with an impact wrench.
 
Is there a ratcheting mechanism in there or something? Trying to figure out what the thing that looks like a lever (between the two flat plates) is for...
 
Looks like the mechanism in the middle allows the weighted arms to give a hammer effect to either tighten or loosen.

Without such a system you would rely on the strength of the person spinning the wrench.

I may be totally wrong but that's what it looks like.
(bit like a rotating hammer as opposed to a sliding hammer) :grin:
 
You start the KO by hand and attatch the tool. You hold the tool by the round handles on the crossbar. You rotate the crossbar until it hits the stop. You rotate the handle back which moves freely. You tighten again. It's a ratchet hammer. A hand impact tool.
 
Great minds think similarly:

Here is my variation which I call the Wing Nut Smacker.
 

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The nice thing about the deldrin drive is that its non mar and as it surrounds the drive it won't hurt the wheel if it drops. The pilot tube is a good idea but as the P4 KO's have solid centers it wouldn't work for those.
 
If you rest the outer end on something like an axle stand when you are tightening/untightening it is less likely to slip off. But I'm sure you all knew that already...... :)
 
For an on the road version, a 2.5lb plastic "dead blow"

hammer works just fine. It doesn't mar the knock off

spinners, and better yet, fits in my tool bag, in one of

the door pockets.

A grand total of $7 and someone else did the engineering! ;)
 
Bill
For the Ford and the Lola that works fine but the P4 has 15in rear wheels and it's very hard to get in there with a hammer. In a strange way that's how I wound up with my P4. During the 67 LeMans race Amon got a flat and tried to use the trusty Ferrari Lead hammer to change the wheel. The head flew off the hammer and he was SOL. He tried to drive back to the pits on the flat and the mag wheel caught fire.
This pic is my car after the fire. Piper bought the remains and years later I bought them from Piper. You can still see the repair that was made to the fire damage on my chassis.
 

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Good idea on the deldrin. Mine seems to work ok because I hand worked the fit so that it fits perfectly on these knock offs. Otherwise you would get point loading. I can not imagine trying to use a hammer on my rear wheels shown above. Asking for trouble. It has a pilot tube to go inside and also pilots on the outside of the threaded portion with ~.020 clearence. Real smooth and controlable motion. The pilot is held in with a spring loaded button and can be removed easily.

For those who did not catch it the first time. The weights are allowed to rotate something like 90 degrees before they hit a stop. You hold the device into the wheel with the left hand. Rotate the weights until you bump the stop the rapidly rotate them in the direction you wish to knock. The weights build up momentum just like the hammer does and impacts the other stop driving the tool around.
 
Hey Jim, I didn't realize that your P4 wore #20 at Le Mans in 1967. I don't know if you remember the 1968 Le Mans poster I bought off Ebay a while back but your car is featured prominently leading some Mk IIs out onto the track. I'll have to clear my calendar for April 11!
 
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