How can I get dash to fit

[JayPSC]

As you can see it varies massively from side to side, if I pull down the pass side it'll pull out at the front & there'll be a lot of tension on it. Seems like it came out of the mould warped.

Jay

[Dean Lampe]

I think Fran is in Florida at PRI this weekend. I am sure he could help you when he gets back. Keep us posted!

[Scott McDill]

Jay,
Don't worry. It is not uncommon for the fiberglass to curl after it comes out of the mold. Just force it into place. Hold it there for a while and it will retain the shape. The fresh resin is quite fluid and will give over time. For example you may find the rear lower corners of the front clip will curl inward. The top of the spider will sag slightly, leaving a gap between it and the windshield. I put a broomstick inside holding the spider up in a position just slightly higher than where it needed to be. Three days later it held position without any support. I would just place it where it needs to go, add a little (or a lot) of weight as needed. Fran also suggested a heat gun can be used to speed up the process. Don’t over do it with the heat. I found that if you place the part in position, warm it slowly to where it is not quite too hot to touch, let it cool and it will retain the shape. So don't be afraid to push your fiberglass around a bit to get it to fit.

[JayPSC]

Originally Posted by Scott McDill

Jay,
Don't worry. It is not uncommon for the fiberglass to curl after it comes out of the mold. Just force it into place. Hold it there for a while and it will retain the shape. The fresh resin is quite fluid and will give over time. For example you may find the rear lower corners of the front clip will curl inward. The top of the spider will sag slightly, leaving a gap between it and the windshield. I put a broomstick inside holding the spider up in a position just slightly higher than where it needed to be. Three days later it held position without any support. I would just place it where it needs to go, add a little (or a lot) of weight as needed. Fran also suggested a heat gun can be used to speed up the process. Don’t over do it with the heat. I found that if you place the part in position, warm it slowly to where it is not quite too hot to touch, let it cool and it will retain the shape. So don't be afraid to push your fiberglass around a bit to get it to fit.

Got it clamped down into shape so we'll see if it stays where it's supposed to.

[chuck smith]

needs a little heat to make it work,at least sunlight

[Rob]

Chuck and Scott are right on man...
It is supposed to be raised off the dash structure just a bit though... so suggest a thin plank of wood ~3/4", clamp and heat or direct warm sunlight. The warpage should come out no issue.

I have changed the shape of a quite a few fiberglass panels this way in the past.

Rob

[Phil]

Jay
I had a similar problem...I tried it out in sunlight but it wasn't enough heat so I got a couple of those red heat lamps and hung them above while clamping the dash down and it worked well. Don't get too close with this method, and be patient and it will work. Also if you clamp try to spread the force so as not to create more deformation than you started with such as rob suggested with a plank.
Good Luck
Phil

[Rob]

Jay,
Rather timely discussion, as yesterday I tackled the same demon. Below are pics of the process I used. I first fit the dash, by trimming the bottom legs to sit flush to the pillars, then notched the top of the legs to fit the dash sub structure, clamped in place, fired up the spot lights (aka poor mans heat lamps). Once the material was getting hot to the touch, I started inserting paint stirring sticks one at a time (with some time between). I exceeded the desired position by ~10% assuming some relaxation (historises) would occur. Let cook for a while at this position, then removed lamps and applied weight. Added bulb type weather strip..and Baddaboom...baddabing... good to go. Hopefully this helps you.
Rob

[Jonathan S]

I know this is a little off topic but what are both of you (Rob, and Jay) going to do for a demister vent?

[Rob]

yea.... about that..... uhh..I have a plan...just not sure what it is yet.
Actually, a buddy of mine says he has one that he'll hook me up with.
R

[Jonathan S]

Fran suggested that I use a 65 Mustang dash speaker grill. It will work but the opening on the dash needs to be revised to fit. The good news is they are cheap. I got one on ebay for $17 including shipping.

[Scott]

Why not just cut a piece of aluminum to the correct shape and have it louvered to each side from the middle?

[Brett James-McCall]

Originally Posted by jonathans

Fran suggested that I use a 65 Mustang dash speaker grill. It will work but the opening on the dash needs to be revised to fit. The good news is they are cheap. I got one on ebay for $17 including shipping.

Jonathan,
Do you have any pics?

Brett

[Rob]

Jonathan,
I too have a gen 1 (64-66) Mustang demister grill sitting on the shelf. I was planning the same modification to the dash. I think it is verfy doable if you are comfortable doing glass work. Before you do it though, take a look at Ron McCall's thread. He picked up a Comet (I think...) grill which is closer to the Zephyr.

[Bill D]

Rob-
What is the dash sub structure you mention? Did you make that or did it come with the dash?

Thanks
Bill D

[Fran Hall RCR]

The substructure is the plenum that we have been working on for the AC system to eliminate all the hoses dangling under the dash....it works well and is very clean....its a standard part with the RCR AC system that everyone with a DP kit will receive...very very shortly.

[Alex Hirsbrunner]

Of course I would prefer to purchase a defrost panel from RCR, but Tornado lists one in their parts catalog that I suspect would require less fabrication:

Full parts list for the TS 40

40-82* Dash demister louvered panel in Aluminium with fixings. £38 $57

Al

[Bill D]

Fran-
That is way cool. You keep raising the bar.

I also noticed that Rob has cut a hole in the dash for the demister air. Is that where the originals were cut? Do I need to add rubber weatherstripping to the front edge as Rob has?

Thanks
Bill D