SLC 1/2 Mile Event

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Odd turbo orientation - the exhaust must have quite a hard turn entering them. It must work though. The asymmetry of the turbos would drive me nuts, but that's just me (and expensive to change for virtually no gain).

It'd be nice to get a video with the engine sound :)
 
Odd turbo orientation - the exhaust must have quite a hard turn entering them. It must work though. The asymmetry of the turbos would drive me nuts, but that's just me (and expensive to change for virtually no gain).

It'd be nice to get a video with the engine sound :)

This setup is the temporary build using the LS376 crate motor that was installed prior to their recent acquisition: they installed twin 67mm precision turbos, 1300cc injectors running C85 and an AMS 2000 boost controller to get the project going and on the road. Currently being built is a 427 Dart II tall block, inter-coolers etc.....
 
Anyone have more insight as to what the actual HP was as run, if adding more boost/power was an option (and if so, why wasn't more added), how much traction became a limiting factor, how the car handled, etc?
 
At 3:11 you can see the doors opening at speed, similar to the videos posted by Jon Bridges. Shark - is this your old car? Any details about your door construction (with or without inner door panels, hinge or door striker adjustment notes)? When I pointed this out after seeing Jon's videos I think the general consensus was door striker adjustment wasn't quite right.
 
I don't know how the door striker was adjusted on that car, but there is clearly an aerodynamic lift force there at the end of the door.

I wonder if small vortex generators (like these) as used on trucks would disrupt airflow enough to reduce the apparent lifting force enough?

An article here discusses the idea in some detail.
 
At 3:11 you can see the doors opening at speed, similar to the videos posted by Jon Bridges. Shark - is this your old car? Any details about your door construction (with or without inner door panels, hinge or door striker adjustment notes)? When I pointed this out after seeing Jon's videos I think the general consensus was door striker adjustment wasn't quite right.

Cam yes - that's my old car. The car did not have the full door panels, just light luan with veneer covers over the interior door handle area/opening. I noted that right side door (and left to a smaller degree) lifting also.

I noted a slight lifting when I owned it, but it was slight. And then again I never had the car over maybe 125. They are now pushing the vehicle over 175 and I am sure there's a lot of aero dynamics happening at that speed that normally would not be apparent or an issue at lower speeds.

The new owner Matt, mentioned the car seemed pretty stable at speed, but they did feel some cross-wind stuff occurring.

-- Mike
 
I'm headed to BBORR in a few weeks. Will see if I can mount a GoPro to watch the doors during practice. I've run over 170 in the turns and the car is rock solid with street splitter, front fender vents and the CF rear wing. But no idea if my doors lift like that.
 
Yep, fresh LS1 off craigslists. Had to swap reluctor, sprockets, sensors for my ECU. I made a rookie mistake and had to service the lower end last night. Had a buddy over to help me, and we got it done in one late evening w/o removing the engine. With the graz you have to pull the trans back from the motor to get the oil pan out. And of course the crossmember under the oil pan is a PITA to remove.

Currently the car is ready to start except I've got no power to the GM ECU. Should be straight forward to sort out. Still have to make coil brackets to fit the LS7 coils to LS1 valve covers. Trying to get it to the dyno on Saturday.
 
No. 172 is about 7,000 rpm. That is from a road side radar display and a glance at my tach. While I am sure the radar is accurate, the dash was not my primary focus at that time.

Don't plan on going with the drop gears. I am working on an alternative transaxle solution for my car. We've done a trial casting and all went well. Will return my focus to that in June. Work, racing and 2 kids graduating are eating up my time this month and next.

Plans for my car include a high HP turbo motor and mile, roll and open road racing. Will also title/license the car at some point. So I really want a quick change gear set (final drive ratio) and more spread between the gears.

The LS1 is a cheap temporary solution. Obviously it's not going to pull 170 with the LS1. For BBORR I have a Tech Speed (i.e. not to exceed) of 168 this year and I think I'm running the 145 class. So the LS1 will be fine if it holds together at 5500-6500 rpm for 118 miles...
 
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