A couple of Graz questions

[Joe Swaim]

To those running the Graz, what do you use for the shifter? The one on mine is SUPER sloppy and unpredictable on downshifting, not to mention first gear is a PITA to find.

Also, have any of you had issues with it not wanting to start after it gets warm? Mine almost acts as if the starter is locked up. If I let it cool for a few hours, it's fine. Battery is typically 12.8-13v when it does this.

Any insight is greatly appreciated

 

[Mike]

Also, have any of you had issues with it not wanting to start after it gets warm? Mine almost acts as if the starter is locked up. If I let it cool for a few hours, it's fine. Battery is typically 12.8-13v when it does this.

Check the three? engine grounds and that they are properly secured, battery grounded securely etc. -- Ground issues seem to be the 1st stop on that engine no start roller coaster ride

 

[Fran Hall RCR]

Increase the size of the wire to your starter
Guaranteed problem solved

 

[Joe Swaim]

Increase the size of the wire to your starter
Guaranteed problem solved

It's "00" from the battery all the way back to the starter. All the grounds are solid.

 

[PeteB]

I have the same problem, won't turn over when it's hot unless I turn off the A/C first. My battery cable is 1-gauge, so I think I need a heat shield on the starter.

 

[Fran Hall RCR]

Check your voltage drop during starting hot and cold

 

[Jerry Jackson]

SLC with LS7 crate engine and Graziano. Braille Lithium Ion Battery (same cranking amps as Corvette Racing)

Joe I had exactly what you are describing. Cranks like a spin dryer when cold, sounds like it has a 9 volt alarm battery when hot. I spent an enormous amount of time on this problem. Increased the Battery cable to 2/0 gauge, tried a lead acid battery, jumped the isolator switch and another new starter motor. Same result after all this. Same result with a very large marine cranking lead acid battery 3 feet from starter and connected neg and pos directly. With a start button when the engine and trans are cold a press and the engine runs. When warm this does not work but a quick press and release then a press and cranking is like cold. I find it quite practical to drive the car like this but I would like to get to the bottom of the problem As I have changed every component used in a crank for something different but could only try another of the same starter I am left with the conclusion that the starter is the problem. I have an effective heat shield protecting the starter.

 

[Joe Swaim]

SLC with LS7 crate engine and Graziano. Braille Lithium Ion Battery (same cranking amps as Corvette Racing)

Joe I had exactly what you are describing. Cranks like a spin dryer when cold, sounds like it has a 9 volt alarm battery when hot. I spent an enormous amount of time on this problem. Increased the Battery cable to 2/0 gauge, tried a lead acid battery, jumped the isolator switch and another new starter motor. Same result after all this. Same result with a very large marine cranking lead acid battery 3 feet from starter and connected neg and pos directly. With a start button when the engine and trans are cold a press and the engine runs. When warm this does not work but a quick press and release then a press and cranking is like cold. I find it quite practical to drive the car like this but I would like to get to the bottom of the problem As I have changed every component used in a crank for something different but could only try another of the same starter I am left with the conclusion that the starter is the problem. I have an effective heat shield protecting the starter.

What kind of setup do you run for your shifter?

 

[Gareth]

Has anybody tried changing the starter for a spare cold one when the car is hot?
Just a thought.

 

[Jerry Jackson]

Joe, I made a mechanism with 2 spring loaded plates one each side of the shift lever that forces the lever to a central (3rd & 4th) position. So there is pressure each side when going for the other 4 forward gears. This gives a very positive feel of where you are. I then put gear indication on the dash. I use 4 micro switches to collect lever position and made a prototype circuit board using logic chips to convert the switch information into a gear number with appropriate data for the LED numeric display. It displays 1 thru 6 for forward gears, 8 for reverse, flashes 0 when in neutral and a solid 0 in the case of a mis read. This arrangement is still a prototype but has proved reliable and has transformed driving the car. I don't stir coffee anymore.

 

[PeteB]

Wow, that's a cool setup. Jerry, please post some more pics of your car.

 

[Frank Clark]

I have an LS7/Graz. Mine was difficult to start when cold - had to hit the button, release, then hit it again to get it to crank. When hot, would not start at all. That was with 4awg.

I had two issues.

#1, voltage regulator in alt was bad (this was a NEW alternator). Was putting out 19volts at idle. This likely cause issues for the battery. Replace battery & alternator.

#2, 4awg was insufficent. This was with the battery mounted in the engine compartment behind driver and cables run directly to starter and head(ground). Switched both +/- to 2/0.

Between those two, all my starting issues were solved.

Finding 1st for me is a PITA, but I don't use 1st...

If you make your own cables, use good lugs and make sure they have good connections. I prefer to crimp and solder.

Good Luck on your issues!