How "Light" is "Superlite" (Coupe)

Dave Lindemann · 10th October 2009, 02:37 PM

Pretty darn light! I borrowed a friend's Intercomp SW 500 scales this weekend. The scales have an accuracy of +/- .1% of applied load or +/- one pound which is the scale graduation, whichever is greater. So, the larger weights are pretty accurate - the small pieces not so much, but at least it is close.
I started by weighing the rolling chassis - this includes the chassis, all body panels, suspension, brakes (less the front calipers), stock wheels (Corvette), tires, radiator, pre-formed brake lines, fuel tank, steering, windshield and rear deck Lexan. Note that the body openings for the engine cover and windshield have not been cut out. So, there is a little extra weight but not much. See the photos below.

I then measured the G50 gearbox (dry), inner door panel, A-pillar covers, center console, stock seat, headliner panel, and side windows (both sides, 2-piece, no hardware).

Obviously, there is going to be some variation in weight from car to car. I've weighed out a bunch of the smaller component parts on a more sensitive digital scale and I can post those weights too if folks are interested. My goal is to eventually weigh almost all of the component parts and of course, the completed car (though that may take a little longer!).

Dave L

Jack · 10th October 2009, 03:31 PM

Dave, I performed a similar exercise and with the LS1/930 gearbox in-place. My tally came to 1969 pounds. Hoses, fittings, coolers, etc. not included. I think a dry weight of 2150 or a bit less will be very close when done, but I'm tracking it as I go.

Jack

Alex · 10th October 2009, 04:54 PM

I prefer to take the easy way to measure things - when it's finished I'll just drive it onto one of those trucker weigh scales

I guess my cobra is spoiling me - completed weight (3/4 tank of gas, full fluids) it came at 2140lbs with the glass windshield (with my lexan one it should be 2120lbs). Anything over 2120lbs is an oinker to me now

Btw, I'm trying to get Fran to use MR10 lexan for the windshield instead of glass - that should shave off like 20lbs or so - maybe if enough of us ask nicely for it he'll make some for us

(mr10 is scratch resistant lexan - the one on my cobra is scratch free still and is 100x clearer than the glass windshield)

TimB · 10th October 2009, 05:36 PM

Alex is MR10 DOT legal as a windscreen?

Alex · 10th October 2009, 06:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MN12

Alex is MR10 DOT legal as a windscreen?

If I say 'yes' will you pester him for one? =)

To my knowledge it isn't. However, for those of us not concerned about such matters, it's a superior alternative (based on 500 miles in my cobra with glass, and 500 miles with mr10 lexan)

- Much better opacity/visibility - this one is hard to explain unless you've sat behind it, but the overal road 'picture' is much clearer & cleaner

- It isn't going to crack like glass (we got a crap load up rocks up here, and the worst that's happened is a tiny knick where it struck, versus a cracked windshield)

- Light as heck

- I've seen "regular" (uncertain of technical name for it) lexan and it seems to get marred up pretty easily - I've washed mine dozens of times with not 1 marr on it, so the mr10 is tough and it will take some abuse for you to marr it up - one thing to note, if you have a sun gun or similar and shine it on your production vehicle's glass windshield, I'll bet it's all marred up. I thought my Z06's windshield with 20k miles was perfect (Aside from chips), but under examination I found it marred up from very occasional wiper blade use.

Go go MR10 lexan

Tim · 10th October 2009, 07:15 PM

just scaled mine, complete, LS7, Recardo, no gas but all other fluids, ready to run - 2400 lbs

Dave Lindemann · 25th October 2009, 10:37 PM

Here is what I have so far. I still need to weigh a few things like the AC system, DigiDash, etc.
Dave L

ArnieSmith · 26th October 2009, 10:26 AM

I think that the "lite" of the Superlite's is meant to be a less extreme version or more restrained example of other surpercars. Yes, these cars can be lighter in weight but the "lite" part is mostly price point. Think Atom as compared to SL-R and most other supercars as compared to SL-C.

Alex · 26th October 2009, 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ArnieSmith

I think that the "lite" of the Superlite's is meant to be a less extreme version or more restrained example of other surpercars. Yes, these cars can be lighter in weight but the "lite" part is mostly price point. Think Atom as compared to SL-R and most other supercars as compared to SL-C.

I would imagine though that the net finish cost is probably similar to that of other supercars like an Ultima GTR, no? (just guessing, because I don't know much about the GTR)

Jack · 26th October 2009, 02:13 PM

Alex, a reasonable finished cost, with you doing any fabrication/labor should be around the 75-80K mark for a well finished example. If you go for all the options and full leather interior, etc. You're looking at near 100K. IMHO...

ArnieSmith · 26th October 2009, 02:28 PM

Well, I did say most not all and IMHO the SLC is better looking.

Jack · 26th October 2009, 02:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ArnieSmith

Well, I did say most not all and IMHO the SLC is better looking.

Totally agree! An SL-C build on a very tight budget, iron V-8/930 gearbox
spartan race car like interior, no frills at all with the standard tire & wheels
could probably be done for less than 50K. All of the SL-C road car builders that I am aware of are aiming for a more elegant (read $$) and finished
completion.

Alex · 26th October 2009, 03:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ArnieSmith

IMHO the SLC is better looking.

I agree

Go go SLC power

Quote:

Originally Posted by molleur

Alex, a reasonable finished cost, with you doing any fabrication/labor should be around the 75-80K mark for a well finished example. If you go for all the options and full leather interior, etc. You're looking at near 100K. IMHO...

Any idea how much an ultima GTR costs completed? (using, say, 600hp engine (your choice) and supporting fuel/transaxle/etc.... parts)

Jack · 26th October 2009, 03:38 PM

The minimum orider cost for the KIT is 41K right now. A 600HP engine, gearbox, etc.
as well as a few needed options brungs it up to very near 100K finished, if you put it together yourself. To have the Ultima GTR professionally built will be nearing 200K. Contrast this with a contracted build for an SL-C (600HP) with a private builder and your looking at around 130-150K. This is in my opinion though. I wouldn't build an SL-C for someone for less than that.

Dalton Veitch · 27th October 2009, 02:56 AM

Going back to weights, the Porsche 917 weighed 800 lb, with about an 800hp engine. The tubular chassis, complete with all mounting brackets, weighed 103lb. No wonder it accelerated briskly. Unfortunately it cost more to produce than the $ most of us mortals can afford.
Dalton

Alex · 27th October 2009, 04:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dalton

Going back to weights, the Porsche 917 weighed 800 lb, with about an 800hp engine. The tubular chassis, complete with all mounting brackets, weighed 103lb. No wonder it accelerated briskly. Unfortunately it cost more to produce than the $ most of us mortals can afford.
Dalton

Wikipedia says you meant to say 816KG (1800lbs), not 800 lbs

Dalton Veitch · 27th October 2009, 09:31 PM

Well spotted, Alex, I did mean to say 800 kg. With some versions of the car, they had to add oil to the oil tank to achieve the minimum 800kg required by the race regulations. But they look damn flimsy to me. I'd rather be in a "Superlite" thanks very much.

In terms of costs, here in Australia we are a car driving, car loving, culture, yet the cars often cost around double what our US friends pay, particularly for the more interesting cars.