Manual for RF

Ron Earp · 11-08-03, 12:18 PM

Robert,

You should consider taking submissions for the RF manual from users. I think we could help you out considerably with making the best manual available. I know Hershal has written me some details directions on some things that would be right at home in a manual. I've done the same on some things. For instance, the drawings in the pilot bearing post would be invaluable and save lots of time. Just capture them and use them if you like. I'll be happy to write some bits on tranny mating, fuel system for carb, and a few other things that aren't covered in detail by the manual. I'm sure some of the others would too.

Best,
Ron

Mark Worthington · 11-08-03, 05:52 PM

Good isea, Ron. And I'd love to see RF get some fastener torque specs into a revised manual. It is a very good construction manual right now, but could still be improved.

Robert Logan · 11-08-03, 06:06 PM

Ron, Mark et all,

Great idea please forward all alterations for consideration and inclusion.

I will plan an erreta / upgrade early in the new year and ask for all submissions to be with me end of January 2004.

Send them the usual ways.

Best wishes,

Robert

**patbarry** · 11-08-03, 06:08 PM

Torque? That's what Carroll Smith's books are for!

I waited on doing the body 'cause I'd never done anything like it before. Good ol' Hershal was a God-send. Now I wish I'd done the body first - I have dust all over everything. I think I'll need to rent a 185 compressor and blow it down with a 1" air line!

HILLY · 11-09-03, 06:04 PM

G,day Pat,

From you post I assume that you have already installed things like the electrics etc.
I was planning on fitting the body straight after the chassis panels are fitted. Is that what your recommendation would be. I too am a novice to the FRP / Body work game but I am sure that I will learn by my mistakes as I go.

HILLY · 11-09-03, 06:29 PM

Great idea!! This would definitely improve what is already a very good manual. There are bits and pieces in the chassis paneling alone that have taken a little pondering to sort out how it all fits. (When you work it out you then wonder why it took an hour because it was really obvious). I still haven’t worked out how the ‘S’ bend bit works on the front of the Spider. However I’d reckon that if all the little things that you come across during the build were included, the submissions appendix would be bigger than the original manual.

**patbarry** · 11-09-03, 09:42 PM

I haven't got the S-bend figured out yet either! That one may be a custom job before this is all over. If you read the manual, I think suspension comes right after paneling, then body. I would definitely do it in this order. I have hoses and wires and steel lines run - and now dust all over everything.

One thing that Hershal taught me was to fit the spider, then the doors, then the front and rear clips, then the sills. This is not the order of the manual, but I tried following the manual and ended up calling Hershal for help. And as they say, a good time was had by all.

After helping my daughter with her book report today, I spent several hours sanding, filling and what-not. A good end to the day.

HILLY · 11-10-03, 12:04 AM

Thanks for the info Pat.
My suspension has already been fitted and the brake and clutch lines are positioned but not secured.
Some further investigation will be required on the 'S' bend.

Geoff Deakin · 01-18-04, 05:39 PM

There has been talk on the Forum of making the RF Build Manual or a Build Video available to prospective purchaser.
Has there been any further thought on this?
Regards,
Geoff.

Bill Hara · 03-10-04, 08:13 AM

Pat Barry mentioned that Hersh helped him fit the body of his car in a different sequence to the manual. Spider - then doors, then front and rear clips. Why did you choose this option Hersh and can you be a little more expansive on the details of how this was done??
I'm at this stage now and have come to a stand still [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img]
Regards

Bill.

Hershal Byrd · 03-10-04, 12:24 PM

Bill,
I use the measurements provided by the manual to fit the spyder feet. Drill and mount the feet with the bolts provided. I then use C-clamps to hold the spyder apron onto the scuttle frame because this may need adjustment before it is made permenant. I then put on the hinges to the doors and then I clamp the lower and upper hinges in place. At this point you move everything around until you are satisfied with the shut lines of the doors. Then you can mark with a pencil under the apron where to cut off the extra apron overhang. I then drill an eighth inch hole into the apron at the corners and the middle and secure the holes with clecos to keep the apron in position.
The next step is to be sure your hinges are square to the mounting surface then mark the holes. If you have a self centering automatic punch then this is the time to use it to mark where to drill. The more accurate you drill the holes the better the fit. I remove the doors before drilling. Before I put the doors back in place I trim the spyder apron by transfering the line I drew on the bottom to the top using a good strieght edge. I place a 2x4 under the apron to hold it up while I cut the eccess off. After this I bolt the doors in place and cleco the apron back down so that I can fit the striker plates and door locks.
I hope this helps out some of you guys. There is other ways to do this but I have found this way works the best.

Hersh [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

Bill Hara · 03-10-04, 05:35 PM

Thanks Hersh for the very quick response, the information is very much appreciated.
I had intended to catch up with you while you were here, however things didn't work out for me.... my only chance was when I attended a local Cobra Club meeting as I'd heard you were going to attend with Robert, but you guys didn't show [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img]
Never mind, thanks again for this info [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

See ya mate!
Bill.

**patbarry** · 03-10-04, 10:03 PM

What Hershal said is the way we did my car. I tried to follow the manual, but ran into problems. Hershal's way is the way I would recommend.

Robert Logan · 03-11-04, 03:30 AM

For those of you reading this who are Roaring Forties owners, I refer you to the first page of our manual. It states that this manual is to be used as a guide only. I am always happy to look and listen to all of our owners, especially Hershal with all his experience, but I know our method works.

I remember a phrase someone said long ago:

"Rules are for the obedience of fools and the guidance of wise men".

Best wishes as always,

Robert

TimOz40 · 03-12-04, 01:09 AM

[ QUOTE ]
I remember a phrase someone said long ago:

"Rules are for the obedience of fools and the guidance of wise men".

[/ QUOTE ]
I believe it was Colin Chapman, founder of Lotus Cars. He was very good at it.

Ian Anderson · 03-12-04, 04:49 AM

Actually was used bu Douglas Baeder (sp) 2nd World War Spitfire Pilot who lost his legs and flew with tin ones.

But the sentiment is good

Ian

David Morton · 03-14-04, 05:32 PM

Ian,
Quite correct - Directly attributal to Bader.
I wish I could think of quotes like that !!!
Dave