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Old 08-20-05, 11:27 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Engine Balance

I thought I'd ask the question here since the flywheel is from RF. The damper is from Ford for a 96 302 using a crank trigger, as above, the flywheel from RF. To my untrained eye, the flywheel looks to be zero balanced. That is what my engine guru said also. Now the damper looks to be not zero balanced. So...I get a machine shop to zero balance the damper, right? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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Old 08-20-05, 12:34 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Re: Engine Balance

you would zero balance the damper ONLY if you are going to zero balance the engine - standard ford small blocks are either 28 ounce or 50 oz balance set-ups.

best bet is to take all of your parts above to your engine builder and let him balance the whole assembly.

cheers
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Old 08-20-05, 01:23 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Re: Engine Balance

Pat, you need to take them in and have them balanced as a unit. But, I would suggest zero balancing your Ford engine instead. Have them do the crank at a zero balance, use a zero balance dampner, and just bolt the flywheel on. That is what I'm having done to mine right now. It might be your crank cannot be brought to a zero balance though if it has had too much material taken off, but your machinist can work that out for you and maybe bring it back with some heavy metal.

R
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Old 08-20-05, 04:55 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Re: Engine Balance

I had the crank zeroed to match the flywheel. I had a Ford racing damper that I had the machinist get to match the crank, I only realized a couple of days ago I needed the damper shown in the picture. I would rather not have to disassemble the engine - does anyone know if I can have the damper zeroed without it being mated to the crank?
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Old 08-20-05, 10:23 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Re: Engine Balance

I have seen a few balancers with a removable weight, thus making them "O" balance.

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Old 08-22-05, 07:05 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Re: Engine Balance

If you plan to use a MOTEC setup with coil packs you will need the toothed ring from the balancer shown above for the crank ref sensor. You can either use the above balancer or have your engine builder remove the toothed ring and install it on a neutral balancer (assuming your crank and flywheel are neutral).
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Old 08-25-05, 06:01 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Re: Engine Balance

Guys,

You might want to look into selling your balancers and getting one that has removable weights instead. Look into the Powerbond+ model. Its SFI 18.1 approved, and even with 28oz, 50oz removable weights + spacers to fit any Small Ford you can get it from CNC-Motorsports for about $135.

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Old 08-25-05, 10:07 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Re: Engine Balance

My engine guru is cutting down the balance using his crank stone, then balance it to zero then double check the flywheel. I think this will work out okay.
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Old 08-25-05, 10:35 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Re: Engine Balance

Keep in mind, if you don't have a toothed ring for the crank sensor how will you get at crank ref signal?
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Old 08-28-05, 11:03 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Re: Engine Balance

All seems well, got it back from the shop on Friday, ground down nicely and zeroed. Mounted and almost ready to go (except I need diferent brackets, have to get my controller back, then install the engine, cross my fingers and hope it starts).
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Old 09-17-05, 09:47 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Re: Engine Balance

Pat,

Can you post a picture of your balancer after your machinist finished it? I'm considering going the same way (internally balanced engine) and I need the stock pulley and crank trigger.

Thanks,
Charlie
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Old 09-22-05, 02:20 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Re: Engine Balance

Not sure if I took a picture, but I'll look. I also took in the flywheel and they did a bit of balancing to it also.
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