I have recieved a few e mails requesting details on how I made my rotiserie. First I would like to say that all engine stand are not the same. I purchased mine from Harbor Frieght tools. They were the 1000lb. capacity ones. I got them on sale for $40.00. I was back at the Harbor Frieght store a couple weeks ago and they had 1000lb engine stands but they were made different than mine. So providing measurements won't be very helpful. I will try and explain as to how the best way is to build the rotiserie.
When you parchase the stands you may need to purchase a couple more swivel wheels to replace the non swivel ones that come with the stands. Make sure they are the heavy steel ones.
The first thing I did was cut off the swivel
mount head at the top of the upright. I cut it one inch below where it was welded to the upright. Now you must purchase some rectangular steel tubing that will fit inside the top of upright which is also rectangular. This piece should be about three feet long. It must fit without too much play when fitted inside the upright on the stand. It should also slide all the way to the bottom and about six inches should stick out where you cut off the swivel head. While the two pieces are together, measure up from the bottom upright about two thirds the distance and drill a half inch hole in the middle all the way through both pieces. This hole is for a bolt or pin that will allow you to adjust the head up or down as required. Now remove the the rectangular piece from inside the upright and drill three or four holes below the first one you drilled spaced about two inchs apart. The engine stand upright will only need one hole. Now take the swivel that you cut off and fit it over the top of the rectangular piece and weld it on around all four sides. After welding slide it back into the stand upright and trial fit the bolt or pin in all the holes. Now put the engine mount plate back into the swivel.
Repeat this process for the second engine stand.
You will need to make mounting brackets that will bolt to the front and rear of the frame. I used two inch angle iron and bolted it to the holes that were already on the frame. I bolted the engine mount plate to the center of the angle iron which ran side to side of the frame. It is hard to be more specific on these frame brackets as it will differ from frame to frame manufacturers.
The best way to get the frame onto the stands is to install the engine mounting plates onto the frame brackets at the front and rear then lay the engine stands on the their side and slide them onto the engine mounting plate. Use a cherry picker hoist or an overhead hoist and raise the frame from the center. As you raise the frame the engine stands will swing into position. Lower the hoist just enough to put wieght on the engine stands. Now you must put a long brace from one stand to the other. I used a long piece of two by two square steel tubing running it from the top of the front wheel to the top of the other front wheel on the stands. I used self tapping screws to secure this piece.two on each end.
I do hope this helps you out and if there is anything that isn't clear please ask.
I can't imagine working on my frame without it being on this rotiserie. I believe it has saved me many ours of hard work and was alot easier on this old back of mine.
Hersh
PS. John Schiender's frame is on it now and it only took about four hours to do two thirds of the paneling.
When you parchase the stands you may need to purchase a couple more swivel wheels to replace the non swivel ones that come with the stands. Make sure they are the heavy steel ones.
The first thing I did was cut off the swivel
mount head at the top of the upright. I cut it one inch below where it was welded to the upright. Now you must purchase some rectangular steel tubing that will fit inside the top of upright which is also rectangular. This piece should be about three feet long. It must fit without too much play when fitted inside the upright on the stand. It should also slide all the way to the bottom and about six inches should stick out where you cut off the swivel head. While the two pieces are together, measure up from the bottom upright about two thirds the distance and drill a half inch hole in the middle all the way through both pieces. This hole is for a bolt or pin that will allow you to adjust the head up or down as required. Now remove the the rectangular piece from inside the upright and drill three or four holes below the first one you drilled spaced about two inchs apart. The engine stand upright will only need one hole. Now take the swivel that you cut off and fit it over the top of the rectangular piece and weld it on around all four sides. After welding slide it back into the stand upright and trial fit the bolt or pin in all the holes. Now put the engine mount plate back into the swivel.
Repeat this process for the second engine stand.
You will need to make mounting brackets that will bolt to the front and rear of the frame. I used two inch angle iron and bolted it to the holes that were already on the frame. I bolted the engine mount plate to the center of the angle iron which ran side to side of the frame. It is hard to be more specific on these frame brackets as it will differ from frame to frame manufacturers.
The best way to get the frame onto the stands is to install the engine mounting plates onto the frame brackets at the front and rear then lay the engine stands on the their side and slide them onto the engine mounting plate. Use a cherry picker hoist or an overhead hoist and raise the frame from the center. As you raise the frame the engine stands will swing into position. Lower the hoist just enough to put wieght on the engine stands. Now you must put a long brace from one stand to the other. I used a long piece of two by two square steel tubing running it from the top of the front wheel to the top of the other front wheel on the stands. I used self tapping screws to secure this piece.two on each end.
I do hope this helps you out and if there is anything that isn't clear please ask.
I can't imagine working on my frame without it being on this rotiserie. I believe it has saved me many ours of hard work and was alot easier on this old back of mine.
Hersh
PS. John Schiender's frame is on it now and it only took about four hours to do two thirds of the paneling.
