HELP! Engine quit!

C

• Oct 12, 2002

• #1

390 Ford. Popped thrugh one exhaust of true duals. Then popped REAL LOUD and quit. Won't start even with starting fluid. Points close: opened u-still won't start eve with starting fluid. Supec not getting spark (should fire on starting fluid!?) Could it be something else: Coil!? Changed rad hose after getting small hole in it. Did not ru hot. Some water in one exhaust but cleared up after a few minutes. Sat and idled with no problem last night for 1/2 hour plus. Ran roughthis am when started as if not running on all cylinders.
How do I diagnose problem? Stumped! cb

 

S

OMeyer

• Oct 12, 2002

• #2

Sounds like ignition problem. Try these first: Check all wires to coil for loose connections. Check to make sure timing did not move on you. Check to make sure points are dry, set at proper gap, and properly lubricated (lack of proper lubrication will cause rapid wear of point blocks which results in improper point gap). Then replace coil with a known working unit.
I had a similar problem this past September with my flathead. Turned out to be a small amount of moisture in the points assemble which caused occasional short circuit and resultant loss of spark. I removed the points, blew them off with the air hose, and soaked them in WD-40 before reinstalling them. It now runs fine, but it took two weeks to troubleshoot!

 

S

OMeyer

• Oct 12, 2002

• #3

Also, assuming your area may be experiencing rain today, could be moisture from condensation on distributor cap spark plug and coil wires causing cross firing or grounding. Try spraying all wires and cap with a heavy coat of WD-40 as this will get the water off the wires.
Good luck!

 

C

• Oct 12, 2002

• #4

Thanks! Just pulled a plug and NO SPARK! Did fill the engine block through the water temp sensor with a hose(!!!). Feel I got thigs wet. How about another coil? cb

 

S

OMeyer

• Oct 12, 2002

• #5

Try the other stuff first. Most likely it is a moisture problem. If all else doesn't help put on a known good working coil.

 

F

Bill Bayard

• Oct 12, 2002

• #6

Try CRC 556 as it leaves little or no oily residue compared to WD40. Check your rotor, cap, and coil very carefully. Even a minute crack can have drastic effects when moisture is present. I hope that moisture is the ONLY
problem. BTW, starting fluid (ether) won't burn without a spark! Good luck!


Bill

[ October 12, 2002: Message edited by: Bill Bayard ]

 

C

• Oct 12, 2002

• #7

I felt that ether should start it IF there was a spark. Have used it many times (known as the ether bunny at the marina) . Will try the drying out proceedures. Thanks cb

 

C

• Oct 19, 2002

• #8

Replaced points and condenser and fired right up. Suspect worn out condenser. Thanks, all. cb

 

J

Jack Compton

• Nov 4, 2002

• #9

Chip-Suggest looking for an electronic replacement for points and condensor. They have units which fit the FE distributor, or you could even use a Ford electronic distributor, or an aftermarket unit. Pitch the points, etc. They are always a pain in the ...

Jack

 

G

Guest

Guest

• Nov 4, 2002

• #10

Chip,
I have a 68 mustang that I drive everywhere when it is not raining. This summer I would have to change the condenser every 500 miles, The car would sputter and the shut-off, coast to the side of the road and it would start right back up. after getting fully fustrated and going thru 5 condencers a friend suggested to put in a pertronix electronic conversion kit in this brand new msd distributor,since I have installed the electronic update I have put another 5500 miles on it with-out missing a beat I am having a blast with this car, but I can't wait to get the GT-40 finished.
Best Reguards,
Chris

 

C

• Nov 8, 2002

• #11

Thanks everyone. There is a guy here south of Atlanta (Bill Parham/southern Automotive) who is a long time Ford Motor builder and racer (retired) He builds a lot of engines for Cobra replicas (I have a Unique out of Albama, which he supplies a majority of the engines for) as well as other applications. (Mustangs new and old GT40s and Panteras) He has a breakerless ignition system built inside a standard Ford distributor: Looks stock and period corect with the relaibility of modern electronics. Will consider this. Go to his website and browse. One of the largest supplier of original 427 side oilers in the US-and a great guy to boot!

I just didn't think that condensers went bad that often-but they do I've learned! cb

 

G

Guest

Guest

• Nov 8, 2002

• #12

Here is a link to Bill Parhams Website:

Southern Automotive

 

C

• Nov 8, 2002

• #13

Thank you Lynn. Just talked to Southern Automotive and they will help me get my 40 registered in GA. cb

 

A

andys

• Nov 8, 2002

• #14

I've heard some very good things about Bill at Southern Automotive in terms of customer relations. Seems like a good outfit.

Ahhh, yes, the condenser gremlin strikes. Been there, done that several times, though after the first occurance (after looking everywhere else), you change-out the condenser first-off. Seems this is more a frequent occurance these days, as years ago this didn't rear it's ugly head as often. Wonder if it's the lack of quality parts, or? When I see parts stores feature ignition parts by Blue Streak as their premier brand, it make me shudder!

Ford/Autocraft/Motorcraft (?) used to sell a pointless conversion kit that fit the stock distributor. Wonder if they still catalog it?

Andy

 

C

• Nov 8, 2002

• #15

After obsesing over it for several days, and concerned about the worst, I changed the points and condenser and it started right up! Still ave a new coil, distributor cap, and rotor. Got the beast running for under $6! cb