I never trusted those rear clip side clasps !

I have always distrusted those darn side clasps onthe rear clip. Ever since that Yellow GT40 lost it's rear clip at Road America last year I've felt as though I was waiting forthe other shoe to drop. From what I was told the Yellow GT lost it in the stright and the clip hit a mustang that was behind him and broke out his windshield. The GT driver didn't even know he lost the clip and made another two laps before he was flagged off. Gee so much for checking your mirrors.
Well, since my GT was in for some spiffing up at Gordons, I thought that I would have him install these new pins I bought. They are off of a 68 Shelby GT Mustang. I think they look like they were made for the GT40. What do ya' think ??
I threw in another picture of my GT. I took it in the front yard when the light was good.

Hersh

Hi Hershal

those rear catches look neat, as you probably know most Uk guys use racing hood pins that give a positive lock.
This is an area everyone should think about, as you rightly say the light weight side catches are not really up to the job and they are only as strong as their attachment point.

I am at present supplying a guy with a new rear clip, the one on his car, tore in half when the wind got under just one side as the catch ripped out of the GRP.

In addition to this I have recently been speaking with another forum member that almost lost his rear end when a similar incident occurred. His car is fitted with rear MK11 style periscope ducks and I believe that this increases the chance of loosing the rear clip, because they force even more air in under the bodywork.
Forcing more air under the rear clip on the Mk 1 inflates it like a balloon at speed and it really does put a lot of strain on the catches. You can elevate this tendency by cutting additional holes in the body work either side of the licence plate recess just below the rear spoiler. I have an original rear clip that has exit holes also cut through the licence plate panel, as it does not need a licence plate for racing. These additional holes can be scene on many of the Mk1 Le Mans cars.

If you take a look at the rear of the Mk11 car that originally had the periscope ducts two things are apparent
1: is that the rear exit grill is enormous compared to the Mk1.
2: the ducts had internal ducting taking the pressurised air down to cool the brakes to exit under the rear arch.

Under trays under the engine compartment can also help to blow the rear clip off,
Remeber air in must equal air out.

Regards
Chris




P1075 rear exit holes.

[ April 08, 2003: Message edited by: Chris Melia ]

One simple trick that a lot of DRB (GT40 Australia) owners over here use is a pair of long pins which run through the rear cabin bulkhead & then through the vertical panel of the rear clip. These are usually positioned so that they are invisible with the doors shut - this ensures that they can't fall out (unless you drive along with the doors open or missing) & that thieves can not see them when the car is locked up.

A simple "guide barrel" on the back of the bulkhead & a re-inforced plate with a hole (threaded or unthreaded) on the rear clip make them simple to insert/remove, and just about bullet-proof in terms of strength.

Kind Regards,

Peter D.

Chris,

My car has an aluminum pin which goes from

the driver's side door jamb into a receiver

hole in the rear clip. It fits through Dzus

fastener plates, can't be removed unless the

door is open, is comletely invisible with

the door closed, only requires drilling two

5/16" holes and rivet holes for the plates,

takes about 10 minutes to install, and

doesn't require any painting whatsoever.

I had similar fears of an airborne rear

clip, and ordered it when I bought my car.

Hersh,

Your arrangement does look a lot cooler than

mine!

Peter,

You beat me to the punch by about ten

seconds!




Bill

[ April 08, 2003: Message edited by: Bill Bayard ]

Hi Bill and Peter

the DRB idea sounds good to me

Regards
Chris

Chris,

Let me know if you'd like me to e-mail you

some photos.


Bill

Hi Bill
Yes please
Regards
Chris

Yet another good, informative thread here at gt40s.com.

Hershal, your car looks great!

Bill,

Could you also send me photos, I have been fretting about this problem for some time and your and Peter's solution sound perfect since I can't bring myself to drilling through the rear body shell as it's already painted (expensively.
Thanks. Peter is you have any photos, that would also be great.

Trevor

For the Australian members of the forum, the pins that Hershal used were also found on the XW and XA GT Falcons. They're still available from specialty supplyers such as Rare Spares for under $100 a pair.

I've been a bit concerned about airflow thru the rear deck... the following facts seem to be common;

- Rear decks fly open at speed
- Tremendous cabin heat
- Hot air being forced thru the gearstick gaitor
- Mk2 GT40's having revised vents & intakes on the rear deck

I believe is that there is plenty of airflow entering the engine room, but it can't get out! Chris's photo's & comments say the same....

Would it be possible there is some weird reversed airflow behind the car preventing airflow exiting thru the rear exit vents??

My MK-IV, Lola, and P4 ALL have large open rear openings. The Lola has 4 locking pins and the MK-IV has a pin and safety clip at the top of the roof that locks down the rear clip. The P4 hindges at front as did MK-IV J3&J4. J5, J6, J7, J8 hindge to the rear.

Trevor, sorry but I have no pics of the pin setup. However, it look like Bill Bayard has this arrangement, & Bill is pretty good with a digital camera !

Peter D

I am not sure how others do the rear hatch. The CAV has a "hood release" on each side that works through the passenger compartment and secures the rear section at the top on each side. It also has lower catches. If anyone would like to see pictures of the setup let me know.

No worries, Peter. Bill sent me some great photos. Solution is simple and effective, and the fact that I don't have to drill through the outside shell makes it ideal.

If possible, could these pics be posted on the forum? If not, I would like a set of the pics for myself. The side latches never seemed enough for me either, and I was struggling with what to do. Mine already has a hole drilled through the top of the rear clip which was, I assume, for the pinned rods which are on the front nostril. I was planning to replace them with Dzus fasteners. I like the locking ideas. Keeps prying eyes away.
Bill

All of you guys have great ideas. It just goes to show that there really is more than one way to skin a cat. I did mine this way mainly because these pins look like they were made for this car, They have eye appeal and work just like a Dzus fastener does. They are also quick to get at incase of some unforseen reason I need to get the clip open. I thought about locking pins but that could prove to be disasterous if a fire starts under the clip and you have no fire system but only a fire extinguisher as I do. I do hope to have a fire system in the near future.

Hersh

Hersh

I assume Gordon was able to install these
without any re-painting. Any photos as to how it was done? I've never examined the
Shelby twist locks up close. Thx.

MikeD

I have posted a few photos of the CAV GT rear latch system. One shows the handle on the inside of the passenger compartment. The other shows the catch on the rear hatch. The last shows the catch mechanism on the chassis. Notice how the center hole has a movable piece. This is the positive retainer operated by the handle.
http://www.2gmotorsports.com/gt40_rearlatch.htm

Looks exactly the same as the GTD setup if I am not mistaken?