GTD pedal box

I've found I can squeeze into my GTD ok, but the pedals are too close to me (first time I got in, I put my feet the other side of the pedals and found myself waggling my feet looking for them!) there seems to be enough room the other side of the pedals to move the whole assembly rearwards without fouling the bulkhead but is this feasable? Is it a major job? (ie cutting of chassis rails?)
 

Howard Jones

Supporter
Do you mean that you want the peddles farther away from your feet? If this is the case and the peddle mounting plate is too far to the rear then you can unbolt the vertical portion, the part that has the mastercyl and clutch cyl mounted to it, and remount it farther forward. This is not a 10 min operation but it will not be necessary to cut any frame rails or reweld anything. You will have to get to the nuts that are inside the steering rack void so you will have to take some of the panneling apart.
This should work up to 6'3" or so.
As a bit of advice, If you get this all taken apart it would be a good time to shim up the steering rack 7/16". I believe this will improve the bump steer quite a bit. Just put a 7/16 alum. plate under the rack mount on each side to raise it up the 7/16".

Bud can you chime in on this?
 
Howard,

Thank you for your advice, much appreciated. I'll have a root around so I know what I'm about to undertake.

Simon
 
Most of the GTD's around the US have what is called the extended pedal box. The frame was built at the factory with an extra piece of framing in the pedal box area which allows one to easily move the pedal box assembly forward 1 1/2". This is plus the adjustments that Howard is talking about. The pedal arms are easy to reform to shift the position of the foot pads from side to side. Just make sure that all of the bending takes place below the push rod attaching points. Bump steer and strange "ackerman" in the front steering is controversial on the GTD. Most agree that both could use some improvement. Changing the ackerman is MAJOR. The bump steer can be improved by shimming the rack mounting position. I think you have several people who have done so in the UK. They can advise you better than myself. If you don't feel like, or have the place to properly check the bump steer on your particular car,you can try using 7/16" to 3/8" shim plates under the rack mount. Even if it is not perfect it will be pretty close in most cases. I think Malcolm wrote something about this earlier. Good luck and keep making it better! If you're fooling around down there it is also worth cutting some access holes for future ease of getting to the rack mounting bolts. Just add some cover plates to keep out the weather.
 

Malcolm

Supporter
The standard GTD pedal box is adjustable to a degree. It has a series of mounting holes for the vertical plate so you can adjust in about 20 mm steps. There is a limit this can be done to as you will eventually hit the chassis rail. GTD did offer an option of a long footwell chassis which is as described above. To retro make a long footwell is quite a task nbut if youi are prepared to strip the car down it is not complicated. Just helps if you can weld up side down I guess! I have alsways wondered about replacing some of teh tube chassis here with a honeycomb sheet but that is another story.

Some people have found going to a Tilton pedal box gave more leg room. Andrew Fordyce has done this quite successfully in his car with teh standard chassis lenght. This involves a little cost and a little fabrication to mount it plus changing over cylinders and the like. Not complicated if you are good at Meccano.

Malcolm
 
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