Seat Placement and Mounting Details

Ok, how bout some thoughts on seat placement/mounting techniques on the RF's seats.
The seats come with 4 studs welded to the bottom "strap" frame work and face downward . I would have originally thought they intersect the metal straps that go left to right across and above the stainless floor pan.With the seat in the car with the seat base off I can see this isnt how it was intended as the seat back is hard into the bulkhead. After positioning the seat further fwd , and clearing the bulkhead with a little room to spare, I then figured out (i guess) the single predrilled hole in the "stepped " strap picks up the one fwd inner studd and the rest only go through the stainless belly pan and no other support. I realize your seatbelts have nothing to do with the attachpoint of the seat, but I would think you would want a stronger set up than that.
I was thinking of getting some flat strap material and welding it just forward of the exiting straps and anchoring the seat through that.
Ok guys let me know your thoughts are , and RF too please. Thanks, Dan
 

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...I can see this isnt how it was intended as the seat back is hard into the bulkhead.

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Dan,
The seat is meant to be hard up against the bulkhead with the seat mounting studs down through the two forward-most floor straps. Is there a reason why you would need it to be clear of the bulkhead? (baby seat maybe? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif )
 

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I realize your seatbelts have nothing to do with the attachpoint of the seat, but I would think you would want a stronger set up than that

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If you are using a lap/sash type seatbelt (not a harness) then you would mount it through the rear-most floor strap. If you are using a harness, then you would mount it at hip level (the middle strap). Robert (RF) please correct me if I am wrong.
 
Hi Chris, well I played around with it this morning, and I tried to see what would happen with a half inch shim under the rear "legs" of the seat, and now the seatback lightly clears the bulkhead , and is parallel to the bulkhead . I guess this is what needs to be done ? I guess thats why the studs are long that they put on the seats .

I figured it would be good to have some clearance behind the seatback, first for room for insulation and upholstery, and second a little air gap would be nice for left over heat coming through and any vibration.
Thanks for the reply Chris. Dan
 
[ QUOTE ]
...and I tried to see what would happen with a half inch shim under the rear "legs" of the seat

[/ QUOTE ]

Dan,
My seat fitment didn't require shims. Having had a closer look at your picture though, it seems as though your seat back is thicker than mine, which might explain why you are having these problems. Do you have any padding behind the backs of the seats? My seat has none (just the thickness of the leather) so it will sit as in my picture without shims.
I have cut the studs so that they don't protrude downward too far and hope to eventually replace the downward studs with upward bolts.

Also, its hard to see how tall you are from your pic (and that resemblance with Frankie is uncanny /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif ) but you will need all the head room that you can get if you intend on wearing a helmet. Shims may be an issue.

PS. Vibration and heat doesn't seem to be a problem.
 
Chris , I dont want to lose any headroom if I can help it.I am a hair over 6ft with a 32" inseam. I should have ample room for sure in this car , but like you said a helmet or if I pick up a hitch hiking tall super model , I might need it,,,lol. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif oh,, I have kinda grown into enjoying Frank Sinatra in the past year or so. I love changing these avatars every now and then, lots of fun !
I guess we'll see what RF chimes in with. I wish the manual was better as it doesnt even mention seats, I guess a new one is being done up .
I cut the studs already on one seat as I am planning on countersunk flush fastners coming up through the pan.
Take care bud, dan /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
If anyone else has a RF and has any insight , please chime in . Id like to get my seats temp. stabbed so I can locate my pedal box and get my mid bulkhead finished. I hoped to hear from RF, but I guess they cant always live on this board.

To me looks like I either need to shim the seat , or move the seat forward and add some metal to the straps for the seats to mount on. Let me know what your situation was,thanks, Dan
 
Dan,
Sorry you are having difficulty mounting your seats. The seat straps with the studs sticking out should rest upon the cross straps on the floor pan. I think we need to get some measurements to see if your seats corrosponds to what they are supposed to be. It's possible that they could have been welded in the wrong place. Not likely but possible.
I have been out of town for over a week and I did not have access to a computer. If you like you are welcome to send me an e mail or call me and I will try as hard as I can to rectify the problem you're having.

Hersh /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
Does this help? I have the RF seats, leather with grommets.
 

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Ron Earp

Admin
Mine are mounted just like Pat's. I took a piece of cardboard, put it on the ground, and then mashed the seat into it so the studs would leave holes. Took that pattern and drilled them, fits perfect.

Ron
 
Pat & Ron,
Dan has the new one inch dropped floor. Because the floor drops the seat as to drop as well this maybe what's causing the misalignment. The bulkhead forces the seat forward as it gets dropped. I discussed the situation with Dan on the phone and we came up with two remedies. I believe he chose to weld two 2"X4" steel plates at the front of the straps then mount to these. There is another way but it uses 3/8th" high spacers and this takes away part of the reason for a dropped floor.

Hersh /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
Thanks for explaining that Hersh. Last night it suddenly dwelled on me that if the seat was up higher (original floor) the seat would have cleared . One call to ol Hersh and sure enough He remembered dealing with spacers under the seats of another 1 inch drop floor car. Maybe down the road RF will adjust for this on their future seat builds.
Thanks guys, Dan
 
Hershal, you just turned on a light in my brain (which isn't hard). I too have the drop floor, and my seat sits hard against the rear bulkhead. I may well do as Dan and move mine forward ever so slightly.
 

Ron Earp

Admin
Yep, that is right. I didn't think of that. Mine is normal, thankfully since I'm short and need to see over the dash, and that would make a difference.

Hmmmm. That picture is.....odd.
 
Hey Dan,
Robert has just arrived here at my home. I told him of your seat mounting problem and he nearly knocked me down getting to the phone to call the factory. AS to what I heard on this end was he wanted this checked out immediatly and he requested a mockup made and measurements taken. Then he informed the person on the other end that he wanted that information ASAP as we need it when we stop by Dan's home this Monday.
So Dan as it looks at this time we should be stopping at your place around 1:30PM Monday. If this changes I'll let you know before we leave.

Hersh /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
Just for the record, I have the standard floor too, which would explain the difference.

I'd be curious to know Dan, once you have the seats and pedals in place and you are seated, what is the distance between your knees and the dash? Given that your seating position will be forward a little, your knees would rise by that amount plus a little more. I am 6'2" and the clearance in my case is about 1/2 inch with the pedals as far forward as I can get them (I'm thankful to RF for giving me any clearance).

PS. My car is the first of what was originally considered a dropped floor, but has since become the standard depth (with the original high floor deleted). Ask from RF and ye shall receive /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

HILLY

Supporter
G’Day Chris / All,

From they way I have interpreted your post is it true that your legs are always in a bent position (Unsupported by the seat) when seated. I thought that this would become somewhat uncomfortable on a long trip?? Fortunately in this case I suffer from “Ducks Disease” so I will have to move the pedal box further towards me. Given that luxury the next question would be … Is there a method or formula that is used to determine the pedal box / seat position relative to the drivers seated position or is it just a matter of trial and error and personal preference. At the moment it looks like I will have to move the pedal box back by approximately 50mm to 75mm.
 
Hilly,
It is important that your knees do not become straight when the brake or clutch pedal reaches the bottom. There should remain at least a 10 degree bend in your knee so that you can apply more pressure if needed. If you have a straight leg at bottom then you have no strengh left to push the brake harder. My seats support the bottom of my legs and I remain comfortable even on very long trips.

Hersh /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

HILLY

Supporter
Thanks Hersh,

I thought there would be an important factor to consider in there some ware and your theory sounds as logical as any. I will use this as the basis of my set-up.
Thanks again. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
Hilly,

Yes, my knees are bent and its not too tiring. I have driven the '40 for 8 hours, only stopping for fuel.


Other considerations when locating the pedals...

* Pedals that are too close make for a difficult heel-and-toe action. Basically that means that you should be able to press your toes on the brake pedal with your foot rotated such that another part of your foot can blip the throttle pedal. You may never choose to learn that skill, but it is nice to know that you could if you wanted to.

* In a frontal collision (which we hope will never happen) you will want your knees to already be bent a little, in case your pedal box is suddenly thrusted even closer. Your legs should have some give /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif .

PS. Actually, I lied a little about not getting tired. My foot muscle got very tired from having to hold my foot up lightly against the throttle. I have since solved that problem by fitting a stiffer throttle spring.
 
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