New Mr. Gasket sound deadening

Cleveland, Ohio (October 2004) Although extremely light-weight, GSport's Titan-Lite is a giant among dampening materials. It provides twice the dampening capability, and is 40% lighter than any of our competitors asphaltic product. Its aggressive adhesive withstands temperatures in excess of 250 degrees, and it stretches up to 40% for 100% bonding to irregular surfaces. It can be used on doors, floorpans, roof panels, deck lids, and sheet metal panels that are prone to flexing, mari! ne hulls, sheet metal hoppers and ducting, and is ideal for sport compacts, street rods, muscle cars, trucks, boats, and aircraft. It also provides great protection for drag car wheel tubs, without adding excessive weight. Featuring a simple peel and stick design, Titan-Lite resists water, fuel, and most solvents, and has no harsh odors.

Lynn,

Sounds great, or should I say 'less-sounds' great /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

Do you know if this company makes an alumnized heat shield material in large sheets as well (for the rear clip), or who does besides a 3" product sold by Jegs.

Tim,

I have no clue wether they do or don't. I get emails like this form several companies and if it appears that it could be useful to our community, I'll post it up.

There are several types of aluminized heat sheilding made by two or three different companies. The one I have used in the really hot areas has an aluminized layer on a layer of silicone fabric. This stuff costs ~$80 for a 36"X48" piece if memory serves. I bought mine from Pegasus Racing. For the other areas, I used the cheaper stuff that is aluminized ticking material. On the firewall, I used both right in front of the engine since the ticking has some noise dampning quality as well. On the interior side, I used hi-temp mastic and a layer of fire retardant polyethylene foam and then the carpeting. In areas that were visible, ie exterior of the footwell, I used Dynamat extreme , while the inner walls have the hi-temp mastic/polyethylene layers under the carpet. My guess is that this stuff is more like the regular dynamat which is not aluminized like the Dynamat Extreme. It would be nice if this stuff worked as well as Dynamat, but is cheaper. (gee, where have I heard that recently The hi-temp mastic/polyethylene together cost about 1/3 of dynamat (check McMaster-Carr for these materials.)

If you want the current wisdom on sound dampening, check out the competition auto stereo forums. That was what I did several years ago. I am sure a lot has changed since then in that area.

Regards,
Lynn

Good info. I'm most interested in the heat shielding in hot spot areas as you did, mainly the rear clip right over the "bundle". Sound dampening would be sac religious /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

Tim,

I got spring loaded to the pissed off where road noise and sound dampening is concerned when I watched one of those "Test Drive" shows on Speed. They were driving an Audi, I think, and the tech rep says, "you might be able to build a car with better performance, but then you'd have a noisy, rattly, kit car."

I have been determined that my car will, in no way, resemble that remark. I don't think there is a material known to man, however, that will completely block out the engine when it is just inches from your ears /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif . My muffler is ineffective enough that the exhaust sound will also find its way into the cockpit with no problem.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif ,
Lynn

Lynn

Wern't Bose or someone similar developing a noise cancelling sound system. Worked on the principal if the original sound wave was in the positive section the system generated a soundwave in the same frequency in the negative section thereby in effect nutralising the sound.

I know no more about this but remember reading something a while back

Ian

Ian,

You're right of course, but that is a device, not a material. And, that's my story and I'm sticking to it! LOL

Lynn /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[ QUOTE ]
Wern't Bose or someone similar developing a noise cancelling sound system. Worked on the principal if the original sound wave was in the positive section the system generated a soundwave in the same frequency in the negative section thereby in effect nutralising the sound.


[/ QUOTE ]

Years ago Lotus Cars worked on something like that using the existing car stereo speakers. When they first demo'd the system at a car show, they had an engine running at their booth and you couldn't tell it was running, unless you put your hand on it to feel the vibration.

Another feature of the system is that you could also program it to modify the sound of the engine. So they had a little econo-box sounding like a huge V8. The test drivers had huge grins on their faces as the reved the little engine.

These systems - (phase inverting reproduction/cancellation) do work incredibly well on headphones - I have tried them in the studio (They are ideally suited for aircraft uses). The headphone system works by having a microphone on the outside of the headphone shell that picks up what you would have heard and replays it through the same side of the headphones with the phase reversed - cancelling it out (taking into account that you will only be hearing what is bleeding through to your covered ears - that seal very well). You can also listen to music on top of this as they are designed to be used as normal headphones. If you don't wan't to wear headphones then the size of the speakers you would need to come anywhere close to a screaming V8 would put you off and still could never be as effective.
I have tried wearing headphones in cars and didn't like it - o.k. if you've got a helmet on though.
What would work better imho is to deaden the firewall / floor as much as possible - lining the bulkhead cockpit side with thin mdf board would actually be just as good if not better than any foam you can buy especially combined with a double glazed window.
Obviously theres a weight penalty with this but it depends how quiet you wan't it - personally I think alluminium - sealed with foam gaskets (Or draught excluder) and carpet with some automotive type deadening like the stuff used in speaker boxes should be more than good enough.
I have made an ally engine cover for between the seats after riding in a car with a fibreglass one (and carpet). Also considered it a bit safer too.
Also bear in mind that it's only ever going to be as good as the weakest insulated part - changing to a glass double glazed unit is pointless without improving the immediate area around it.